The gate is secure but the sensor saying gate won't go out now.

Pulled truck in driveway it was fine. Went to leave with it and it won't roll over. Lights come on inside, bell goes off that says key is in it. Took starter off had it checked, that's ok.

My family has owned Dodge Rams for about as long as I can remember, so I know the usual RPM at 70mph is typically right around 2000RPM. We bought this truck used from a guy that bought it at an auction, so I have zero history on it.

No matter what speed you're at the RPMs are always way over. It sounds really loud, like it's making an enormous effort just to go. If you press the O/D button the light in the dash turns on that the O/D has been turned off but there is no difference in RPMs or anything else.

It is also leaking oil (it seems like just while is running) not sure if it's related.

I haven't changed any parts on it as a need a better idea of what it could be before I start buying parts.

Turned key off/on 3 x .
Odometer said P done?

Where are the code located on my 2004 dodge stratus se to program the remote to unlock the doors

180,000+ miles. Code "no bus" came up with engine light on dash when it would not restart, then next day I turned key in ignition and without turning it over 3x(on/off)and odometer said "p done". What do these mean?

I was just wondering if it is a fuse problem it's mechanic told me I need a whole new head unit

Air intake is low to the ground and driving through any amount of water can cause water to enter and hydro lock the engine.

never occurred before I drove home took out battery to start my grandsons car put battery back in and the switch buzzes when you turn the switch but it just wont crank

Replaced spark plugs....and new battery

Only happens after a rain.

180k miles. Also, "no bus" on the odometer.
Did the key trick 3x in 5 seconds to see any codes.it reads "P done"?

Friend borrowed truck put in gas. Have changed injector pump and computer, checked injectors. Will turn over but won't start. Will start with starter fluid and dies when starter fluid is gone.

My 4 high won't work but my 4 low will, now when I go back to 2wd my 4wd service light is still on with the truck not being on 4wd anymore? Thanks for your help


I removed the front driver said break line for better access at the bottom sliding pin and bushing on the caliper once pin was replaced I reconnected line without bleeding them once everything was reassembled and I removed the Jack I remembered so begin lazy I attempted to bleed the line I had removed without jacking it up or removing wheel. The pedal would not stop going all the way to the floor so I bleed the front passenger side same thing no pressure ABS light still on how do I fix this how do I make ABS light go off HELP PLEASE

It chugs, engine almost kills. Only while moving. If park or neutral it puts. My uncle mechanic passed away but I vaguely remember him replacing something like a sensor for granny.

When first started loss of power for about 4min.

Will startup but issue if sat more than 2 hrs I think it could be in fuel sending unit ? Has 133,000 kms

It's a 3.3. It has to come out of the bottom. Plus that's replacing the water pump, thermostat and wiring harness. I'm supplying the engine and all the parts. They're saying $2500 labor. I think they're trying to rip me off.

I bought 3 pcm's in less then 3m for my 2002 dodge ram van 2500. I replaced my alternator 2x n my battery 3x but my Mechanic keeps saying I need a new pcm. Another guy said my pcm wires get hot n cuts my whole engine off while driving. Is there a cover for my pcm?

ON 09/22/2016 my 2013 Dodge RAM (the Model would not give me a truck option on this web site) 1500 Longhorn Laramie 4x4 (45,000 miles) would NOT SHUT OFF! I know that's different! It eventually shut itself off after running for over 20 mins. I called on my ASSIST button on my mirror and they told me I had to take it to the dealer. I had just had my 45,000 mile service done on it and had no other issues (ever) with this truck. I disconnected my travel trailer (I was starting my vacation to the mountains) and drove to the dealer after calling them to tell them I was on my way. Upon arrival the truck shut down immediately (amazing right). The service advisor wanted to charge me just to look at it. I flatly refused and informed him that I just had the truck in for service and they must had broken something. He got the Service Manager who came out with his tablet and did a quick diagnostic and said it was the PCM (Power Control Module). He told me if there were no other problems to drive it to the mountains and continue to monitor it. He did not know how to stop it from running. I went on vacation and eventually had to take to a dealer up there who also said it was the PCM and they ordered the part (its under warranty) that would come in AFTER I got back home. I went home and while there the truck developed OTHER problems like not going above 12MPH and taking off in reverse. I had it towed to my hometown dealer who later said it was the PDC (Power Distribution Center) and that it was not under warranty. They have now gotten a new PDC ($700.00) installed and they now say the truck is still running "somewhat" but it needs the PCM...STILL. So what came 1st, the chicken or the egg? If the PCM was the initial culprit and caused the PDC to go bad...then I may get my dealer/warranty to cover the entire cost of this repair.

My van is a 1988 i had my automatic transmission rebuilt and now when im on the freeway it seems like its in 2nd instead of drive. its revving high and putting out alot more heat. They said its a three speed transmission and its fine. what else can cause it to rev like its in 2nd? it shifts 2 times. something is not right cause it never sounded like that before. also how can you go 65 miles an hour in 3rd gear?

Heated seats, alarm key, interior lights when car is off and doors won't lock when pressing button on door when car is off.

Symptoms of a bad wheel bearing.

Driver side tire starting to shudder .
I don't know if it's a ball joint something else.

Any 1 here has dealt w/ this b4

All the segments light up on the gearshift indicator and transmission will not shift until gearshift is put back in park and then back to drive.

change plugs, wires , air filter , change injector , clean coborator . code p0303 still shows .

I replaced a belt 2 weeks ago. today it broke again. I can replace it but I want to know why its breaking.

The windows on the pass side don't work. The power outlets dont work, I had the fuses checked out and they look good. I was told it's probably an electrical box. Where is it? What is it called?? Is it expensive to get? Thank you so much!!

My friend had a garage put an alternator on and they replaced the belt too, altough they did not replace the idler or tensionor. A week to the day the belt flew off and some how broke the earlets for the a.c.. Can I just downsize the belt and have it safe? I've been trying to fix it for 5 days and even jbweld didn't stick. So I can't mount the bypass pully. Need more thoughts!!!!! Please help!!