Chrysler 300M Questions
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battery only 3 mo. old. had it tested twice, checks new. everything shut off, was told it was a relay somewhere but doesn't know which one.
Problem is happening again not even 30 days later
This only happens when car sits over night. Longer car sits over night more tries it takes to start. Once started and heats up it's fine rest of day. Runs great. It's summer now. No check engine light at all. Cleaned corroded battery post and cables. Battery is fine. Started acting up two weeks after driver front strut broke and had both front struts replaced alignment and other front end parts.
Sometimes depending on weather it will be louder when colder out and quiet when hot out
I can not use the auto stick to shift. The gear shifter will go in place but it doesn't register on the dash.
I was driving and the temperature guage went extremely passed the halfway mark, it was on orange and the light came on, so I sat and let the car cool off and started the car up again after about 45mins-an hour. The gauge was at the halfway mark, so I though I was going to make it home, but only drove it out of one parking lot into another before it over heated again. I sat and let the car cool off and then I popped the hood. (This incident happened on a Friday, but it had not been driven since that Tuesday, and it also had coolant placed in there that Wednesday). As I popped the hood to check how much coolant was left in the car, it was barely any left, I looked up under the car and the coolant was all on the ground. I had a person come give a suggestion as in what it can be, as they had previously went through the same thing with their car (but their car wasnt a Chrysler). They stated it would most likely be the water pump or the hose. I also know that chryslers are not the easiest cars to work with under the hood, and I also know you have to take about 4-5 things out from under the hood in order to get to the water pump, which I can not do. The last time this car was in a shop, it was there for about 7 months, and I'm trying to avoid missing school again because of car issues.
I started the car and drove two blocks, then parked for 45 minuets.When i tried to start my car, it will crank but not start. I tried a hot shot that didn't work. I was told it was the crankshaft position sensor. That didn't work! So a friend put one of though reader things under the dash and that would not read. it said no reading. Help
I was driving down the road and my belts snapped. Had music up and did not hear it. Continued to drive until it died due to the alternator not running (because belts snapped) and car was pulling off the battery. I tried to replace just the one belt that runs power steering and alternator in hopes I could drive it home without replacing the secondary belt which runs the ac compressor... (Did this because I am low on money) anyways when I went to turn it over it was a hard start and had to pump accelerator peddle to get it to turn over. once it did a verrryyy load knocking noise is coming from right bank and car would not stay running for more than a few seconds then choke out and shut down. Furthermore I checked all fluid levels which were all good and no leaks anywhere. My question is what do I do and could not replacing the secondary belt (for ac compressor) cause this to happen?
Car is missing, and this is how far I could trace it.
To who ever responded to my Trans issue. The answer is once it does it.. It stays. Erase code let sit for a bit same thing. Sometimes it goes into first when I'm stopped. When I move it goes back to 2nd and stays. I really don't want to replace transmission again if I don't have to
I'm a 22 year veteran mechanic. I replaced the transmission a couple years ago. Was perfect for those 2years. When it's like cold outside the transmission will work perfectly. I notice in this 80 degree weather it happens within 10-15 min. Codes are PO700 PO733 PO715 PO732 and PO731. I can rip apart any car and pit it all back together but transmissions are not my thing. Any ideas or help?
About 3 miles and it over heated
i have tried to moves wires around it would work for a while but always returns and now you cant keep a fuse good more than a couple minutes what should i be looking for???
I have a 2002 300M.
How can I use alligator clip testing leads to see if the motors on the fan work
What part do I need, how much does it cost? And how do I fix it?
The clanking noise mainly when i turned,as if i was running over bumps,an now the tires are pointing in opposite directions. An the steering is straight
Oil light also flickers when let go if gas and come to a stop .. constant ticking noise in the front end. Also when accelerating its almost like there's hesatation.. please help
I've followed the cable from the throttle body to the inside. How do i tighten the cable.
I bought a new mopar oil pan for my car, and got everything in, but realized that it didn't come with the aux oil return line stem. I took the old one off of the used pan and it only fits into the oil pan - it doesn't match up with the coupling that is supposed to go into it. Where do I get one that has the same size threads for the pip fitted end and the oil pan?
The person saying that the only problem is the water pump. I doubt that .. Sell the car for 1200... Its way more to it
I've heard the more platinum the better ^-^
The lights on the bottom are blinking.
I've had to refill my coolant previously before after noticing overheating n it helped. Now weeks later i get white smoke from exhaust pipe & check engine light .
I noticed yesterday my heater was blowing cool air instead of warm and noticed that when I would stop my temperature started getting up towards the half way mark and usually it barely goes above the C mark. I have also checked and the codes that came up were P0850 and P0700. Not sure which way to go about finding out what to do without having to take it to a shop because I don't really trust taking it to a shop without knowing what's going on with it