Replaced distributer an rotor an fuel pump an still doing it

After traveling for 1-1 1/2 hours it starts running like it's running hot

The shop said both sensors for the brakes work so it must be electrical. I took my truck to a dealer and they said it was an all around sensor, which the first shop said worked. They want $620. for the part. Does that sound right? Sounds way too expensive to me.

My truck only goes 60 miles an hour cut off all the niddles kept going back an fouth

Everytime I drive sounds like something is scrapping the ground and when I look, nothing is hanging or scrapping. When I turn it's even louder and when I hit the slightest crack in the road you hear this loud jingling noise. I have no idea what this is. Any ideas? And how much it will cost to fix.

i replaced the flex fuel sensor with a replicator about two years ago. it only runs when the weather is cool or cold, when the temp comes up on a warm day the truck just shuts off. it does start back after a few trys i had the fuel pump tested it passed. the fuel filter has been also changed. not to long ago i put another replicator on it . still the same problem.

Why is there a buzzing sound in the fuel lines of my truck?

What I have found to date:
- When alternator is unplugged, the sound disappears (brand new alternator)
- When fuel pump relay is unplugged while running, pump continues to run but vibration changes pitch (relay gets warm when inserted)
- Fuel gauge has started acting funny (starts low and works its way to where it should be)
- Only seems to be bad on IDLE
- runs normal
- confirmed on stethoscope sound is only in fuel lines, predominately the return line
Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am very confused.

please explain or send a pic..thanks

I have been at the garage 5 times and it still won't pass NYS Inspection. The engine light was on and their computer came up with - 4 Not Ready Monitors. They changed the O2 & Heated O2 censors and the reading went down to 2 NOT READY censors. They are Catalyst & EVAP Monitors. I was told to just drive it and they would clear. Over 500 miles later, it still won't clear. HOW DO I GET THEM TO CLEAR???

So I'm thinking its the coolant temperature switch could I get a conformation on that

Change all spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, bug, vaccum hoses, egr, pcv firing order is correct. When it starts it idles high the falls a little lower then it should then has miss in low rpm 1000 or less it clears up at higher rpm no loss of power don't know how to read codes but the check engine light does not come on

It's a five speed 2.8 v-6 clutch pedal feels good. Fluid is good but the clutch is always engaed. So is the clutch out or teeth missing ??

I have a 99' Chevy S10/V6 4WD- Used the OBD II and got this code: P0453/Pressure Sensor Switch High. This just started, and have already cleared the S.E.L. codes, twice. Any help will be appreciated.

Fuel leak where line connects to the fuel rail. such little room to move a wrench, between block and firewall, and need to know procedure repair/replacement. Not familiar with newer vehicles, as you can see by username, seemed like an easy fix but now it looks like pulling the motor just to fit a wrench on it and this can't be! I'm very confident in being able to repair it and would like to know the proper order of procedures in order to assure i neither make the problem worse or more difficult then needed. Thank you sincerely for any help.

The vacum line is behind the tps on the passenger side of the motor

Also replaced fuel filter and it was completely clogged. And about a month ago my buddy crossed the jumper cables while trying to jump me off. And it melted the postive wire in half on my side. Don't know if that has anything to do with it

When I put it in drive it'll start backfiring through the throttle body if you give it a lot of acceleration but if you kind of ease into it it won't do it but you also got to get the RPM's up for not to do it .. but once the RPMs' are up you can give it full throttle with no problem