1,456
questions

Got all for work gear do not have reversed

I have a 95 s10 2wd with 2.2motor and auto trans it runs and drives fine till it gets warmed up then the speedometer drops to 0 and quits working and it wont shift after that from what ever gear you were in but will still drive and when it cools back down the problem goes away can anyone here help me

so before my truck shifts gears the oil pressure gauge will max out then once it shifts it goes back to normal i have an automatic and i cannot figure out why it is doing this when its just idling the pressure is around 40 and after it shifts its at 40 this is normal for my truck but now before it changes gears the oil pressure gauge jumps up as high as it can which is 80.

I need to replace the valve but can not locate it, I was told it was on top of the intake manifold, on the right side near the distributer cap. But the wires for the plugs go under the port fuel injection manifold on the left side of the engine. (Pass side) I must have been quoted a fix for a different year or engine. The codes say the purge valve is not responding, it's only a 12.00 part, but I can't locate it. I'm told by the original owner that the SES light has been on for many years, almost since he bought the vehicle.

Replaced distributer an rotor an fuel pump an still doing it

After traveling for 1-1 1/2 hours it starts running like it's running hot

The shop said both sensors for the brakes work so it must be electrical. I took my truck to a dealer and they said it was an all around sensor, which the first shop said worked. They want $620. for the part. Does that sound right? Sounds way too expensive to me.

My truck only goes 60 miles an hour cut off all the niddles kept going back an fouth

Everytime I drive sounds like something is scrapping the ground and when I look, nothing is hanging or scrapping. When I turn it's even louder and when I hit the slightest crack in the road you hear this loud jingling noise. I have no idea what this is. Any ideas? And how much it will cost to fix.

i replaced the flex fuel sensor with a replicator about two years ago. it only runs when the weather is cool or cold, when the temp comes up on a warm day the truck just shuts off. it does start back after a few trys i had the fuel pump tested it passed. the fuel filter has been also changed. not to long ago i put another replicator on it . still the same problem.

Why is there a buzzing sound in the fuel lines of my truck?

What I have found to date:
- When alternator is unplugged, the sound disappears (brand new alternator)
- When fuel pump relay is unplugged while running, pump continues to run but vibration changes pitch (relay gets warm when inserted)
- Fuel gauge has started acting funny (starts low and works its way to where it should be)
- Only seems to be bad on IDLE
- runs normal
- confirmed on stethoscope sound is only in fuel lines, predominately the return line
Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am very confused.

please explain or send a pic..thanks

I have been at the garage 5 times and it still won't pass NYS Inspection. The engine light was on and their computer came up with - 4 Not Ready Monitors. They changed the O2 & Heated O2 censors and the reading went down to 2 NOT READY censors. They are Catalyst & EVAP Monitors. I was told to just drive it and they would clear. Over 500 miles later, it still won't clear. HOW DO I GET THEM TO CLEAR???

So I'm thinking its the coolant temperature switch could I get a conformation on that