I was thinking it was the fule pump.

how do you replace ac selector switch or disassemble

truck has run strong just this issue

When I try to drive my truck it stalks when u give it any gas in 1 st gear .unless I keep my foot on gas pedal at all times when I'm at a stopped position at a light or pulling onto the road. Unless I pump the gas pedal fast or floor it when I start to go it will stall. Very sluggish in 5 the gear as well

Removed lower dash and control panel and still can't get to them. Where can I get step by step guide?

Truck tries to go into 4WD while moving.

blasting like the choke is stuck, the odometer and speedometer quit functioning, the antilock (abs) light, service engine soon light, and brake lights all come on and stay on from anywhere from traveling less than a mile to ten miles then everything goes back to normal...........

Got all for work gear do not have reversed

I have a 95 s10 2wd with 2.2motor and auto trans it runs and drives fine till it gets warmed up then the speedometer drops to 0 and quits working and it wont shift after that from what ever gear you were in but will still drive and when it cools back down the problem goes away can anyone here help me

so before my truck shifts gears the oil pressure gauge will max out then once it shifts it goes back to normal i have an automatic and i cannot figure out why it is doing this when its just idling the pressure is around 40 and after it shifts its at 40 this is normal for my truck but now before it changes gears the oil pressure gauge jumps up as high as it can which is 80.

I need to replace the valve but can not locate it, I was told it was on top of the intake manifold, on the right side near the distributer cap. But the wires for the plugs go under the port fuel injection manifold on the left side of the engine. (Pass side) I must have been quoted a fix for a different year or engine. The codes say the purge valve is not responding, it's only a 12.00 part, but I can't locate it. I'm told by the original owner that the SES light has been on for many years, almost since he bought the vehicle.

Replaced distributer an rotor an fuel pump an still doing it

After traveling for 1-1 1/2 hours it starts running like it's running hot

The shop said both sensors for the brakes work so it must be electrical. I took my truck to a dealer and they said it was an all around sensor, which the first shop said worked. They want $620. for the part. Does that sound right? Sounds way too expensive to me.

My truck only goes 60 miles an hour cut off all the niddles kept going back an fouth