The timing chain and the intake cam broke so we replaced the head both cams and tge chain. Check engine light is on and the engine will crank slowly but will not fire up. Just need an opinion as to if the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor would be more likely to be the problem. Hooked the diagnostic up under dash and could not pull any codes. Any ideas?

replaced A/C pump and power steering pump - did not fix problem. noise stops when turn steering wheel to left or right. knocking was intermittent but is getting worse. no loss of power - car runs fine

Just bought this car new. Check Engine Light came on OBDII PO420 (indicating inlet/outlet readings out of range.) So what's the most common cause of this particular failure? O2 sensor(s) bad? Catalytic converter bad? Ethanol fuel (need ECM 'flashed'?)
Don't want to just throw money at this problem - fixed my '94 Prizm with advice off of here (coil in distributor failing) so hoping somebody here had run into this enough to at least point me in the right direction - DIY (don't really trust too many shops, don't have the money, don't have the time...worked in them 35 years!)
Thank you so much for your time!

How much would it cost to replace and fix from the exhaust manifold To the muffler.

I sprayed carb cleaner on it, started, engine light is off. took to auto zone & codes P0300 and P0171. What should I repair,if the light is off? I don't want to put alot of $ into if not needed. But, don't want to get stranded again although car is running great again. Confused

P300 code at times, replaced spark plugs and ignition coils. Started after Toyota did timing cover reseal by one of their reprimanded mechanics.

could this be The ECM computer causing this number of issues?

It is possible they are nesting in the engine somewhere. I have seen evidence that they have been all over the inside of my car.

it had 98000 miles on it

Sometimes spraying doors with a deicer works but sometimes it does not.

I recently did the following maintenance of my 99 chevy prizm.
1) Changed Spark plugs and wires with NGK ones.
2) Replaced valve cover gasket
3) Replaced all 4 mounts with Anchor brand mounts.

I replaced the valve cover gasket and the passenger side mount on the same day. As soon as the mount was replaced, when I started the engine, I can feel loud vibrations on the frame and inside the car. It gets worse when I drive it. When I let go of the gas, the vibrations quietens down. The mechanic told me it might go away if I replace the other mounts too, which I did the next day but the vibrations are still there.

When I read about this issue on forums, couple of things were suggested for similar problems,
1) Could be due to a timing issue or even a bad harmonic balancer. I got a mechanic to check both and they are perfectly fine.
2) Maybe due to a misfire, which also checked out to be fine.
3) Some aftermarket mounts might take some time to break in. I am not sure I totally agree with that. Aren't new mounts supposed to absorb the vibrations and support the engine and not make things worse.

I am totally out of ideas on how to troubleshoot this. If any of you experienced guys out there give some useful suggestions, I'd appreciate it.


OBD MD Emissions test type. KOEO result failure. MIL Command Status Failure. Why is this causing my test to not pass? Is it something simple that I can fix myself. Thanks.

I could not find CAM Actuator Valve replacement on list of repair options.

just need to know if you ever had this problem

If I don't drive 30,000 miles in 2 yrs should I change it?

But the car will turn on..... and I rather save money then go take it to a shop... what to do?

I have notice that I have to put freon in my car a few times a year.I just finished putting freon in my car and I posted it in my phone calendar to keep track of it.I also want to know if the low port where you put the freon into suppose to have a cover or some kind of top to keep it from leaking.

intake and exaust valves

the car will start and turn off over nd over. then i will leave it for 10 -20 min come back and it runs like a top.for a while i had a terrible smell like either comming from underneith the car near rear of drivers front door. pulled panel under rear seat revealed fitting for fuel pump with wires and a tube. all tubes/lines/pipes going to front of car covered by a plastic cover like i have never seen.

The fuse is a 15. Would appreciate suggestions on how to fix, so I can charge my cell in the car.

why is the light on even with new brakes

the car runs great before the engine warms up, but after that it runs rough at any speed or rpm range, in gear, but it revs up with no hesatation or skip in nuetral or park. but when a load is on the motor it starts skipping erratically. I have changed coils, sparkplugs, cat con, O2 sensors, cam-crank-knock-temp-ect-sensors but no change switched injectors around, smoked the vacum lines what am i missing it has me puzzled, the ECM-ECU-PCM has been checked its fine also. PLEASE HELP ME IM STUMPED oh yea it has thrown a 01300-01400 code out there to which is a unknown code in any manual or guide i have access to?

Does this mean the AC compressor needs to be replaced. Or is there other alternatives.

My car has taken an additional 2 quarts of oil since my last oil change. I have driven 2500 miles since the change. I do not hear any clicking from the engine just high usage. There is no leaking. I check the oil each week and have been adding about 8 oz. each time it shows lower. I am not a mechanic so do not know the technical stuff.

The bolt will not clear the fuel tank do you have to drop the fuel tank?

the code is P0130 for the check engine light

I recently bought a 1999 Prizm with 153,000 miles on it. It ran a little rough when I bought it but didnt' burn oil so I put new plugs and wires in it as they were in bad condition. I ran a couple cans of Seafoam and a couple bottles of fuel injector through it as well. Car started and ran great after that until it got cold this winter. On cold days it would occasionally sputter and die while starting it cold but ran and started fine when it warmed up. I read that a simple fix was the coolant sensor, so I replaced that. It seemed to help and it started and ran fine on some very cold and snowy days but then started doing it again. I've worked on cars a lot and am retrofitting a TBI system on my old jeep engine, but I lack a lot of practical knowledge and troubleshooting ability with fuel injected engines. By the way, the air filter was brand new when I bought it, oil is clean, no leaks or burning oil, and the old plugs just looked like they'd never been changed. Any ideas?

Car will run fine unless I turn on Headlights engine cuts off. Turn on signals indicator lights will flash also parking brake light engine stumbles . If I turn on A/C engine cuts off. Any Ideas

it is only when i am idling at a stop, i have recently cleaned the mass air flow sensor and consistently run mid grade fuel as i was having problems with it running to lean. just recently ran risolone fuel system cleaner/lubricator through but normally use another brand. codes p0300 and p303 pop up when the diagnostic was ran.