393
questions

It sounds like a tractor knocking. I've had a few friends listen to it and they think it's a rod too. It had oil in it the day it broke down then after sitting for about 4 days it was bone dry. I put more oil in it and it's holding. I let a friend drive it and idk what he did to it.i can't afford to put it in the shop. What's the first thing I should do? Thanks ks in advance.

Issue: Still vibrates at high speeds 50-75 mph (I drive 120 miles M-F interstate).
Recent maintenance from my local Mechanic:
12/10/14: New ignition switch (recall)
12/21/14: 4 new Toyo tires; new GM wheel rt front ; balance; alignment.
12/30/14: 2 lower control arm bushings; swing bar bushings

Took to a local dealer who wants to replace struts, shocks, and balance for $1200. These were replaced (supposedly) at 80K by Firestone. I have 125K miles now. Can these parts wear out at 45K for an HHR? Getting a second opinion. Thanks.

Or, any other ideas?

it spasmatocally hesitates and bucks. after I pull over it seems to be all right. Have almost had a couple of accidents. I took it to my chev. dealer and they said that it was a natural brake reaction on the non skid.... I forgot the word.

its a manual. it gradually went out.

Anyone know where it is? AAA fixed last time, don't want to call them again.

After the car is started and the button on the gear shift is pressured several times with the brake it will release and shift into drive. It is happening everytime I get in the car to drive.

The oil level is still full. After getting rear ended concerned about a leak. It's a small dripping leak that started after a month of driving. Did something shift on the motor to create a transmission leak? Did something shift to create some other kind of leak?

Got rear ended and after one month of driving a leak started. Can't tell if it's oil or transmission fluid. Oil is still full so I'm guessing the leak is transmission. Please advise - troubled

All internet research points to oil pressure sending unit. Is this common? Do i need to remove the starter to get to this thing or what? thanks

Got several mechanics (not shade tree)opinion about the diagnosis I got from GM dealership. Took car in to get serviced and was told that I had a misfire on cylinder 3. Was told that motor will need to be broken down to determine if that is the actual reason my ESC indicator warning light(occasionally)keeps coming on. Followed by (not immediately and not consistent)my malfunction indicator light appears. I have in the past ran over about 3 cement parking blocks (not on purpose) was in a new shopping lot and didn't realize they were there. And about several months after those incidents those warning lights that I mentioned above comes on and off on occasion (not back to back) nor never at the same time. I feel that I have knocked something loose underneath my car that is triggering those lights to come off. But, when I take it into the dealership to explain to them what I am explaining to you now, they ignore listening to what I am telling them (instead of lifting my car up to see if I have knocked something loose)and going from there.Can you please help me out with your expertise advice.

but gains speed as i let off the gas oh and no check engine light either has anyone else had this problem yet my panel has 160,000 miles on it maybe catalytic converterbut would i have a check engine light on >?

It sounds like I am in one gear the whole time.it starts when I get to 30 -35 mph

The gauges fall back to car off mode and do not respond unless I wiggle the key then they come back momentarily as long as you dont accelerate.

I replaced the no. 2 cyclinder replaced headlight bulb put tune up on car the check engine light went off for one day came back on what to do

Temp reading has been fluctuating 30 degrees. Use to stay around 180, Now can be as high as or more then 210.Tried to bleed system. Turned heat temp to high no fan and left cap off till therm. opened. Refilled antifreeze as needed. Is there a bleeder plug on engine?

My fan doesn't come on until 226 degress as read by the coolent temp. sensor, unless the AC is on. Do I need to worry about damaging the engine. My temperature guage stays under the half way mark. I am concerned about damage to my engine especially in hot summer months.

2007 HHR... I was told crank seal was bad. Under car, you can see where it is just spitting oil. I want to save myself a lot of money and fix it myself, but I'm confused on what to buy. They have a huge range in prices, what should I be looking for? And what else should I buy along with it to do this myself? I know I sound silly, but I've replaced head lamps, break pads, and two bearings on my own, so I'm able to figure these things out.

I still have different speeds but can barly feel any air coming out

I replaced the ignition coil and the car runs good but the engine light is still on what to do. Do I need to reset the light and how do I do that or could it be a different problem

checked plug and wires are good. It idles a little rough

I BROUGHT MY HHR IN BECAUSE GM REQUIRES IT BUT I NEVER HAD THAT KEY PROBLEM ...EVEN WEHN TRYING TO PULL THE KEY OUT ..WHEN IS DRIVE ...
THEGM MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT VERY FEW OF THESE CARS ACTUALLY HAVE THIS PROBLEM .. BUT IF GM WANTS TO SPEND MILLIONS INSTEAD OF JUST CHECKING EACH CAR FOR SUCH A PROBLEM .. THEN LET THEM .... OF COURSE YOU WILL HAVE TO SPEND PART OF YOUR DAY WAITING FOR THE RECALL TO BE DONE .AT THE DEALER... OR YOU CAN'T SELL THE CAR WITH A UNDONE RECALL ON THE BOOKS.. AND ITS AGAINST THE FEDERAL LAW ALSO..