It runs great at park or neutral, but in any gear it dies like it has been shut off by either gas or spark. but if you give it full power it takes off like it should. So you have goog power at idle and a little aboue then no power floor it and it takes off. I have been a mechanic for 50 years and this is past me. I'm to much old school!!! Please help,Thank-you

have and estimate from one mechanic of $493.23.

we have replaced the thermostat heater core and starp plugs found out its a blown head gasket but now our car wont start the battery was dead so we tried to jumper it but it wont kick over can u please help why the light and everything work but it just wont kick over

what would cause my cigarette lighter not to work

My wheel on the driver's side locks up temporarily and I skid to a stop until I drive for a while and it warms up.

Car runs good most of the time , but has got to where it will run like it is on one cylinder, I have replaced the plugs,wires, coil packs, computer, fuel filter and it still does it, As long as I baby it ,It will run okay, but if I drive it normal it will run like it is choking, I have also removed the converter. Not sure what to do?

Changed plugs & wires. Now getting check engine light. Diag said, failure to fire on cylinder 4. Am thinking it is the coil pack, but not sure how to go about changing it (not in a convenient location). Any help would be appreciated.

It sounds like it's revving up over and over again and then calms down after a while.

I was told an injector was stuck open or a fuel rail was bad. The back spark plugs have not been changed because my husband doesn't know how.

1989 using too much gas

I just replaced the alternator.

I didn't change the wires.I cleaned the filter, and changed the spark plugs.the mileage got a little better,but it still seems to be bad. does distributor cap have anything to do with that? I din't check to see if it is burnt.I do't know how to find these diagnostic codes people write about.how does a person retrieve that?maybe that could help us.

i have a 93 corsica 3.1L v6, it says i should be getting around 18 miles city, however, i get about 30 miles to a quarter tank. i know the gas tank is rather small, but theres not much done to the car. the air filter has no cover and the filter is loose, just sorta sits there and its not really tightened to the large intake hose. i havent checked the code for my check engine light, and the previous owner put a new fuel flow regulator on the car. i know its pretty broad and i should get the car looked at but any ideas? my final comment is that the car is burning very rich, you can smell gasoline in the oil, is there a way to manually reset my fuel to air ratio?

its pouring out of a valve located directly left and up of the exhaust manifold, the car has a fan with a manual switch on it, and the coolant only comes out when the fan is running. not sure what it is but through research, it could possibly be a heater core problem, input would be greatly appreciated

When I step on the gas it takes a second to get up to speed. And when I step on the gas pedal I hear a popping sound. Also when I stopped the car shakes. Tonight when I got home I smelt a burning smell. I am worried.

When I step on the gas it takes a second to get up to speed. And when I step on the gas pedal I hear a popping sound. Also when I stopped the car shakes. Tonight when I got home I smelt a burning smell. I am worried.

I have replaced the starter (twice), water pump, tension pulley, a belt (twice), battery, and a fuel pump. I thought my car had another problem because of how it was running, was told it could have been bad gas, ran rubbing alcohol through the gas tank, as I was driving down the road, I was pumping the gas pedal to try and run the "bad gas" out, then my car started acting out. It was spitting and sputtering and backfiring and acting like it was gonna stall. I pulled into a parking lot and it died. Then it wouldn't start back up. I also have a crack in my radiator, temporary fixed by jb weld, but I cannot afford to replace it. PLEASE help me pinpoint the problem, I am a single mother of 2 and cannot be wo a car.

It won't start unless I jump it. If I turn it off it will not start again.

Heat would come on and then go off and now it stays off. Don't know where blower motor is located in engine.

also you have to push gas pedle a little for it to start it runs fine plenty of power idle racing up and down getting more often

i tried to fix my horn and when i put the airbag back on it went crazy now i have no radio no interior lights what can i do to fix this i need the radio screw the horn

After oil change at Victory lane in Monroe, MI, oil leak discovered. Returned to oil shop and was informed of 3 hairline cracks near drain plug. NOT an issue before oil change. They claimed it was due to a heli coil that probably caused the damage when technician drained oil. They would not accept responsibility, and told me to go to repair shop and get a new oil pan.

My car suddenly started to act like it's missing and going up hills looses speed and power, starts popping from under the hood like sputtering and is idleing very rough what could it be.

It sprung a leak so every time u steer powersteering fluid goes everywhere.

The idle fluctuates up and down it also stalled and would not stay running if put in gear

I have a 1991 Chevrolet Corsica with a 2.2L 4 Cylinder engine. After driving on the highway (About 45-55 MPH) for an extended period of time (Usually 25+ minutes) my car has an odd habit of dying as soon as i break to a stop. I have tried extending the breaking distance to hopefully allow the transmission more time to drop to a lower gear or something (I really don't know anything about cars)

The problem got worse the other day. After in town driving (Never more then 35 MPH at the VERY most) it did the same thing in the middle of a major traffic lane, thankfully it was late at night and some kind folks came and helped us. I don't know if its an issue but i was running the AC (Or what i think is the AC) for a lot of the day.

We checked the Haynes manual and it said it might have been a problem with the Torque Clutch Converter Solenoid. I would like to know if this car can be fixed for under $70 and WITHOUT the use of ANY special tools (Anything aside from basic socket ratchets, a car jack with 2 stands, some muscle and a torque wrench.) If somebody has an answer, i would be eternally grateful!

I am not sure what the engine is?

What order u put the wires on the coil pack?

i"ve figured out it is my idle speed that keeps making my service engine light coming on. i need to know what the idle is supposed to be set at?

title says it all