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2010 chevy cobalt 2.2 LT 94,000 miles.

turning signal doe not cancel either side

This car of my girlfriends has apparently be stuttering on acceleration for quite some time and I just found out after needing to drive it a few days. The car hesitates to downshift at any speed, hesitates to take off and gets 18 mpg city at an avg of 20mph. I took it to the Dealer to see if they could clean the fuel system after replacing spark plugs that were completely white even though they were only in there 40k miles or so and cleaned the throttle body(a notorious cobalt problem) by taking it off and doing my best to wipe it down with a rag and throttle body cleaner. The GM Top Engine Cleaner they used worked great for one tank of gas which also had seafoam in it, then upon the next fill up the very consistent and annoying misfires and hesitation under 2k rpms reappeared. Over 2k the hesitation is much less than what it was but still there sometimes. Im hesitant to take it back to the Dealer so I called Firestone. They said the complete cleaning will cost 140 dollars and I need to leave it there all day so they can really evaluate it. Could someone please tell me some specifics about their service to bring up if I decide to make that appointment and have it "fully cleaned" according to them and is it likely the carbon build up or something more? Any answers or advice are appreciated.

Also, on another note is Firestones gas tank fuel system cleaner better than say lucas oils or techron?

Thanks very much

My whole car is shaking (not the steering wheel)only when I accelerating 40- 50 mph. It gets worse if I am going up a hill. If I'm going faster than 50Mph not as bad but, still has a slight vibration.
I've had new tires put on and balance.
Had an alignment done
Replaced the bad driver side wheel bearing and rear shocks.
No srvice lights are on.
Taking it to several different places no one seems to know what the problem is.


I had a 2010 Chevy Cobalt for 4 years and on January 10,2016. My car started up fine and then as I drove it the head lights dimmed. I continued to drive it because it seemed fine. Then every light in the car started to flash and then the car stalled and died. Then the car caught fire and I lost my car and everything. I had gotten the recall on the ignition switch fixed but I had no idea that there where other recalls on my car that had needed to be fixed. Because the check engine light was always on. Then my gas gauge always read full when it was not always full or it would say it was empty and still had stuff in it.

When I press them, nothing happens. I have to manually lock and unlock all the doors. My key fob is broken so I can't tell if that works or not. However, when I put the car in Drive or Park the locks automatically react.

Also, is it possible for me to get a replacement key fob without going to the dealer for the model car?

Thanks for any help you could give!

My car started losing power intermittently so I had the fuel pump changed. The problem still persists and now my car doesn't start up right away. It usually takes 2 turns of the ignition to start up.

I noticed that the rpm starts to wiggle after 3rd gear then stabilize, also the car gains and losses speed with the wiggle of rpm. Anyone knows what's the problem here? What should I do?

Sister's '09 cobalt [crap car] has NO PROBLEMS, so how can I turn this IDIOT LIGHT OFF - "Check [Crap] Engine" light?
T Y!

My husband has checked the battery with a multimeter and yesterday was fine and today the numbers have dropped. Today my battery light would come on and then go off. Is this an alternator issue?

MID:$68 TID :$30
Min 5641.7 max 409.7
Current 2891.3


MID:$41 TID:$19
O2 heater monitor bank 1- sensor 1
Min 10544 max 12289
Current 13280


MID:$21 TID:$4d
Catalyst monitor bank 1
Min 4177 mHz max 0 mHz
Current 19744 mHz

Cobalt LT 2008
No check engine light

Remote start is used to start Step on brake dash lites go out tail lites go out blinkers work brake lite work speedommeter work

I just bought an '06 Chevy Cobalt. And it has been doing really good when the engine is still cold. But after driving for awhile and the car gets hot it starts dying on me. When I stop and idle. And even when I go to slow down. When it dies I put it in park and turn it off. It fires right back up and dies again before I can even get it in drive. I need help! The guy I bought it from is a mechanic and he has been looking for the problem for almost a week and it still isn't fixed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

Check engine light is on and the car jumps while im in nuetral

When I raise the hood up I can hear but I never cut off it just keep running and in the car waste a lot of gas

2 wires approx 1 inch wide, 2 inches long, bolted to the inside of front top cross member right behind where the hood latch is

I was driving home stuck on traffic. I made it home safely but not sure what to do next. I have 178,000 miles on my car and have regular check ups/repairs according to Manuel.