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I'm changing my valve cover gasket, but the last two screws are under the intake manifold. This has become a bigger job then I expected.
Working with friends 06 Impala. There is a sweet smell coming from the vents at times when A/C is on. I know this usually indicates a faulty heater core, but I checked the floorboard carpet and felt no dampness this morning. Checked for visible leaks, and saw nothing. Didn't have a pressure tester available for more in depth check. Also when I pulled the pressure cap, it was gunked up with an orange gritty substance, which was really thick. I actually pulled a big ball of it out, so radiator definitely needs to be flushed. Even though I did not feel dampness I still believe the smell could be caused by a defective heater core which caused corroded fluid. Or corroded fluid caused defective core. Are there any other possibilities? The only thing that has me questioning is the lack of wetness on floor. Also tried to check for electrolysis with no indication. I am not sure of the accuracy of the cheap multi meter I was using either. Any ideas or suggestions or even a comformation of my heater core guess would be appreciated.
The is acting like it doesn't want to start and sometimes doesn't but if it does, I am getting a service power steering message?? Are the two related?
The trans also winds out changing from 1st to 2nd and doesn't cut off on me all the time. Has low power going uphill also. Thank you!
There's a 2010 Chevy HHR that has over 228000 miles on it I was concerned about the miles because I was don't want to be stuck with a car that going to go out on me...on the dash it's says svc tire mount don't know what that means but the car has no damages to body I test drove and was silent...it's at a buy here pay here...would you buy a newer model car with such high mileage
It turns over, but won't crank. The distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, are new. I changed the coil and it started in my driveway and seemed ok, but when I went for a test drive it stalled down the road and wouldn't start again.
Why is my engine misfiring on 2 and 3 I replace the coil pack ignition module and it still misses on 2 and 3
Cruise is off and the cable is intact. Pumping the gas pedal several times seems to fix it but so does turning it off for a few seconds.
When purchasing a new power steering pump for a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.4L, does the pulley come as a completely separate part or is the pulley already assembled to the pump?
it stopped than when I tried to restart it, it has a noise like whhio
Two of the top fan mounting bolts are missing.
I have been having so many problems with my car...to where I'm not able to drive it..
There is not really anything else to tell. Going by the owners manual , further damage may result if the remain on all of the time.
It was making a loud breaking noise before it locked it switches gear but tire is locked
Not sure what all has been done, came from another shop. No start without using ether. When tested pump it did not have proper psi, replaced the pump and same issue.
(driver one to driver two, etc ) or changing security features. the vehicle will start. Will replacing main computer fix the problem? If so, approximate cost? Happens about once every six months or so.
2004 Chevy Malibu classic 03 engine.has a new fuel filter cranks but won't turn over.its not the theft system either
This is an Airporter bus, 27 passenger. We have had it run for long periods of time, then for some unknown reason, it will shut down by the security system. This has happened several times and we hqave had 2 mechanics work on it and cannot find out the problem. We had it to a Chevy dealer in Juneau, Alaska and all they did was give us the procedure to reset it if it happens. We operate a tour company in Haines, Alaska and cannot use the bus because we cannot trust it. It is unacceptable to simply go through a procedure to reset it, if it shuts down because we would have passengers in the bus and it is a very uncomfortable feeling for them and embarrasing for our driver. Please help me. We can't even sell the bus with this issue.
No alarms sounding when ignition turned on and when door is open with keys still in ignition.
Connected two different auto computers and neither codes.. already replace spark plugs, lock cylinder, coolant temp sensor, thermostat.. car will crank but the motor will not start. Please I need help asap for this is my only mode of transportation for my family and I to get to work and the store..
I am aware the part is under $50.00. What is the labor cost estimate.
When activating the turn signal switch, the ABS/Security/Traction lights come on, and there is a strange noise coming from the dash / speedo / gauge area. Any ideas on what the issue may be. It acts fine, when only the hazard switch is activated.
My driver seat frame is broke
When the outside temp gets above 90 degrees the ac will begin to blow hot air. If I switch to Max AC and high fan speed it will eventually begin to blow cold air again. I can then switch back to AC and it will cool for awhile until it starts the hot air again.
I have checked the freon levels and it is good. I've also checked to make sure the compressor clutch is engaged. It does not blow hot air idling.
I'm hoping for some direction in finding the cause of this intermittent problem.
Every time I brake and it's like the brakes are giving out , I'm a little bit nervous with this I don't have much money
this car always ran. Code for crank sensor came up, changed. Started once. Code cam up Ign. control mod. changed. no start found ground from bat to body broke. jumped wire, car started. disconnected jumper and car still started 2 times. replaced ground. will not start Code 12 is all that comes up?
The ac has very cold air idling. The compressor is engaged. I have cleaned the coil. When driving the ac air will blow cold, then not as cold, and back and forth but will keep the cab cool. When it gets above 90 degrees out side it will start blowing hot. If I turn the knob to full cold, max ac, and high fan speed, it will eventually blow cold air for several minutes. I've stopped and the compressor is engaged and the high side is hot and the low side is cold under the hood.
As long as it is left on max ac and high fan speed it stays cold, but it can get too cold. If I tun it to ac and lower the fan speed it will eventually turn hot again. Is the problem in the control, an actuator or vacuum?
The control panel shows a message stating this 'Service Stability System. I have already replaced sensor for my left rear wheel. The message still appears intermittently. What can cause this?