Chevrolet 1500 Pickup Questions
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replaced engine with slightly used rebuilt motor from a junk yard.they told me it ran when they got it. so iput it in my truck .useing my distrubitor coil pack tbi carb. i've checked timing gets fuel and spark.only back fires i've retimed it several times yesterday 4/23 /17 i sprayed starter fuild in the carb went to start it and it backed fired but it blew my valvue covers off
I have a 1990 Chevy Cheyenne 1500 heavy half ton with a 3.4l v6 and a granny 4 speed transmission. I want to drop a 70's 350 in it. The transmission and everything else bolts up except I need different motor mounts. Is there a conversion motor mount I can buy or is this something that needs to be fabricated
It shifts into 1 and 2 but won't go in 3 just free balls and it just started change filter fluid and still won't shift
Sorry for the novel, I'm just pulling hair out now (and I'm bald!)
1993 Chevy c1500 pickup, 4.3L, 6 cyl, Cheyenne package with W/T, 460L tranny, about 316,000 miles on original engine.
Transmission – new – 15 mos ago
Battery and cables – new - 7 mos ago (self)
Starter/alternator – new - 9/10 mos ago (self)
Exhaust system – new - 15 mos ago (rust issue with manifold now, will replace)
Fuel system (pump, filter, lines – front to pump) - new – 9 mos ago
Major tune up – 6 mos ago
TPS – new - 8 mos ago (self)
COMPLETED BY SELF IN THE LAST 72 HOURS:
Map Sensor -new
PCV valve – new
Air filter – new
IAC with gasket – new
TBI rebuild and new gasket - (re-used old spring and cup)
EGR valve and gasket - new
EGR solenoid –new
CTS – new
Air filter – new
Vacuum lines – new or replaced in last 3 mos
NO leaks anywhere from repairs (very small coolant leak)
Truck starts right up, but only at a super low idle for about 4-5 secs, then kicks up to a normal idle. Drives perfect with quicker response than before – but only if slow acceleration (bogs if laying on pedal) - until braking or slowing down, then stalls out and dies completely. O2 sensor not swapped out yet because passenger side manifold needs replaced and y-pipe disconnected from manifold on that side. Vacuum lines are either good or new.
EGR was so clogged, it was SOLID in the tube and PCV flow through tube on the driver’s side had to be dug out and then cleaned. I know, I know…
NOW, after replacing and cleaning all of those items, there’s a NEW issue – an exhaust smell in the cab!
It runs great when fixed properly and ran steady (even with what needed to be replaced) up to this point.
What’s even left after this point?
The PCM? Maybe a bad ground or connector somewhere? The O2 sensor?
Running rich problem is fixed; no fuel smell in exhaust; injector spray pattern looks right, but won’t hold steady; truck started to choke and “suck” air and fuel for a couple of days –fixed. The truck used to “whistle” while “sucking fuel from the TBI – fixed. What will make keep making it stalling and dying out now? Other than the O2, I'm at a loss
Truck cranks but doesn't start it will run long as you pour fuel in intake has right fuel pressure and it's getting fire I'm lost maybe anti lock system (bypass) i seapped a 98 1500 to a 95 1500 vortec all wires or hooked up and changed harness don't understand please help
Can you pls help
My truck and speed sensor melted wire got really hot replaced it now my tire is locking up hard to turn then locks up after a couple of rough turns disconnected battery overnight didn't work any help please
trans. doesn't slip just won't change into a higher gear?
it's only that cylinder an Ive replace everything full tune up new fuel pump egr valve I mean I've changed everything I did a cylinder pressure test it was good I can't figure it out I can go 70 with no misfire in till I go up a hill
my 1996 Chevrolet C1500 will not start without the use of starting fluid every time the engine has been turned off for an hour or more.
change dishberter and cap
I have replaced the timing chain also a complete distributor,cap rotor,plugs and wires I have to advance the timing all the way to the firewall to get it to start I have spent $600 just on parts I am really confused and no one can give me an answer I have never had this much problem with getting a vehicle running. I am just about ready to put a 350 engine from my 76 Monte Carlo because I don't want to have to replace the cam . The timing is on top dead center the rotor is pointing to the #1 tower
drop and drain a gas tank
Speedometer is not working now. Transfer case is 246 gm. Engine is a 5.3. Had code for vss,502 I believe, replaced sensor and cleared code. Need help thanks.
The truck is a 6 cylinder and runs great otherwise. Already changed battery, MAP sensor, rotor, distributor cap, sparkplugs and wires, knock sensor, fuel filter and checked fuel quality and all fuses.
I changed the oil pan gasket and the low oil level lights comes on and the antifreeze looks brown now.
The problem only occurred once, I was going over train tracks, and it was out of the blue, the truck just lost almost all power, and then it got going again
I have taillights and brake lights and dome lights.. only 1 low beam works and both high beams work..
I put a new timing chain and gears in it turns real fast fires every once and a while the fire is yellow
it just got a tune up. It did it before and after tune up. temp is normal. It seems that when I let it sit for awhile. It goes back to normal until 40 miles again.
I'm about to purchase from a private party and want to know if it's worth it for how much I'll have to put in.
How do you install pvc
Neutral or electrical box
Center of my truck is the 4wd lever, what is the cover called?
fairly mechanically inclined. live in Alaska, yes its cold! so i drove to work, and when i got off work my truck would crank but not start, my buddy told me it was not getting fuel and i needed to change the pump. i changed the fuel pump relay and she fired right up! the next day it did the same thing crank but no start, this time i unplugged the fuel pump relay for half hour or so plugged it in and she started! went home and changed the fuel pump anyway. the next day the same thing, crank but no start! now its -30º F here so i had it towed for $100 bucks to my house, rolled it into garage and for shits and giggles i turned the key and she fired right up! my kind of luck. whats going on? recent history before this started, just replaced the water pump, thermostat, thermostat sensors. no codes being thrown...
Relatively new motor, new heater core, new water pump, new thermostat(x3). New blend doors (operational i checked) head gaskets replaced and heads milled, hoses seem to get hot, upper hose on core from to p of engine seems to be hotter than the lower return to radiator. temp gauge never goes above 70-80 ish was not working so i installed an aftermarket gauge and the increments are not that well designated... ive done everything i can think of. and spent way too much money. never had this issue until last winter, this truck used to have really good heat, last year and this year wearing snow pants to and from work cause its - 30- -40° below here in AK Sux.
If the O2.sensor is bad how would I know
the leak was coming from under tourq convertor dust cover.its a 74 Chevy pick up 4x4 350 Auto Trans. it was OK the day before. "Question" would front seal just go out! like that? its winter now, and just too damn COLD! to do the work! but, if you need it.It has to be Done.
the heating system does not blend or just defrost or floor. It mainly blows out of the panel vents
I keep getting this code only problem I seem to have is when its damp outside and Im low on gas it acts like it has a miss