Happens occasionaly with no warning when starting from a dead stop.

dash gate one side blowing hot air passenger cool, ac high pressure valve leaking freon, head lights auto on is sticking, rear driver side mirror just went dark and transmission slips when rapid take off when hot... it all happened in a week of each other... is t his bad luck or a bad electronic thing.

have 2 PARK AVE's..both 02 modl yrs. each has experienced same issue in past yr where the UNLOCK MECHANISM disengages and prevents door access in or out. 1 happened on driver side dr, other on passenger side. sometimes it operates fine. no consistency to occurrance regardless of hot or cold outside temps. where's part located and how is it fixed?

happens after car is warm and often during transition from brake pedal application (cornering or startup after traffic light stop) to slow acceleration up to about 1250 rpm. above that car shifts fine and handles hwy driving normally. replaced idle control valve, air intake sensor, air filter and cleaned MAF sensor. front end car accident 8 mos ago required coil pack wiring splice kit. coil pk was intact. throws codes P0742 torq conv sol, P1811 max adapt & long shift ???, & P1122 TPS sensor-circuit short/low voltg and P0440 EVAP sys fault

Changed the fuel filter and it ran well for half an hour now it won't even start.

All my LED readouts are wrong always, such as my gas amount gauge, mileage left, gas used etc. My speedometer needle keeps pinning to zero and my radio plays after the door is opened when the car is off. I am replacing my master window switch so I hope that problem will be fixed.

the air flow only comes out defrost vent at the windshield or the floor

Last week I repaired the resistors for the vacuum florescent display and this after noon it started.

Doors won't open from the inside or outside right side of car

Sounds like I'm being hit from the back when shifting into gears. When going up a hill from stop car slowly and roughly chugs up the hill with the gas pedal almost to the floor. It seems like it drives alright when the car has just been turned on and then maybe 30 minutes or so the transmission starts to bang into each gear.

It worked OK for a couple months and now that doesn't work. It only cranks but won't start. Where can I start at. I have 2 set original keys I tried both already. Does the same.

When cruising down the highway cruise shuts off will reset but will shut down again and again till eventually will stay engaged

Has freon just blows hot air

The transmission Shifts fine when car is first started and cool. When it heats up (180°-190°) ALL gears go out (even reverse) and the car wont drive. As soon as it cools down even a little like 5 minutes the car will drive and shift fine again for another few blocks. Why? What could be causing this? Why would it shift fine until heated up? HELP!!!!

After the car is washed the outside temp reads -39. The A/C blows warm air. When the temp reads 60, set temp, the A/C blows cold again. It takes about 20 minutes for it to blow cold. After that it works fine. The problem only occurs after a car wash.

The electrical part works, I see a second, "cruise" on the dashboard, but the CC under the hood does nothing, I can crush it with one hand, and I hear the sound of a smoker's lung.
If anyone can help me, I stay in KY (Morehead) until July 15
I will speak about the air conditioning later, but it is not easy because English is not my mother tongue.
Thank you in advance

Need help with how to diagnose electrical problem with DIC readings, temp guage airbag lite, but cluster checks out ok.