Buick LeSabre QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My mom had a 1988 Buick LeSabre and she has to usually (but not always) press the brake pedal to the floor to get her brakes to work. She managed to get the car to the shop and after evaluation, the shop determined that her brakes were fine, no leaking brake fluid and stated..."Needs new R/F wheel speed ABS sensor. Sensor wire is cut or damaged."...After many attempts, on their part and my and my husband's parts, it has clearly been determined that this "R/F wheel speed ABS sensor" has been discontinued for the 1988 Buick LeSabre and CANNOT be found ANYWHERE! Does this sound right to you? Would this sensor cause problems with the brakes? Would it cause brake failure?What should we do since the sensors have been discontinued? Is there a "universal" sensor that can be used on her car? My mom is 82 years old and we want her to be completely safe and worry free! Any input that you can provide is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Had the system completely flushed this winter, but the output hose from the heater is still cold even with the engine at operating temperature. What should I look at next?
Tried taking batteries out of both fobs and pressing panic and unlock. Could only stop horns by unplugging them. All other features work. ?
also changed timing chain aligned correct marks. checked balancer for bad fins. I'm running out of places to look. connectors have no bent pins. all above have been re and rechecked.
The Buick has 130,000 miles and in Jan. 2014 I replaced the No. 4 cracked plug. This week, Aug. 2015 I had to replace it again. Cracked again. Why?????
I have a 94' Buick Lesabre Custom that just started making a fluttering/clicking sound while I'm driving. The sound is much louder when I brake and it sounds like it's coming from the rear end of the car but I could be wrong. I was told it could be a U Joint but then I found out that model doesn't have a U Joint. Can anyone give me a better answer than brakes and rotors? Or more reasoning behind what might be wrong?
changed cam and crank sensor and igniter under coil pack. still no spark
I changed fuel pump fuel realy and coil pack and igation moduel and crank senors and cam senors and map senors and wiring and ecm wat else is there
replaced rt. ft door with used replacement door not sure we put original box back in. Now power trunk release is not working from key fob or button on lt. ft door
I have checked the fuses and the hvac has a new controller but still nothing works but display lights up? How can I check the hvac computer module box?
88 chev caprice 305 computer carb starts easy runs then dies. (car had a broken starter, replaced, ignition module cap, fule filter,pump) TPS seems to test ok, O2 sensor tested low 0-5.8v, ECM fuse ok but light in car dose not come on at all. Dose not give any read out with paper clip. Carb inside solenoid clicks on and off, unplugged car runs but smoky, green test plug no signal w Dwell meeter. Car can move if I keep the gas on but not road able. Wont run long until it dies, starts right back up Carb was rebuilt several years ago.
the check engine light most of the time stays blinking on and off otherwise stay on steady. The car seems to be running on 4 cylinders instead of six
just seems to do it if its warmer than when colder. gauge says putting out 14.4 to 14.7 chargeing amps.
I went also open it manually. The poor thing has less than 50,000 miles. Actually belongs to an 86 yr old neighbor.
I replaced the alternator and battery because it was running around 13 volts. Volts look good now -about 14. But now when I apply brakes or slow down there is a huge swing in volts; it goes back down to 13! Turn signal gets weak, etc. It goes back up to around 14 volts a few seconds later. What could be causing this drop in electrical power? Thanks!
do i check the fluid with car running or shut off? running it shows maybe a quart low. not running it looks over full. im confused as what to do.
want stay runing if you not on the gas
want stay running if you are not on the gas