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Replace it . Installed plugs and wires still ran rough. Checked plugs spark discovered plug No.1 had a weak spark,replaced all 3coils while doing job must have created a spike in system cause my Tack nor my Batt. voltage gage work to add insult to injury my DLC is no longer functioning. All logical directions will be greatly appreciated. 3.8liter engine.limited model. Tenth digit in Vin is the letter P but it's registered as 1993 with L-series Eng. Sequential fuel injection
ok my vent temp is 42 at idle and driving up to about 35-40 mph any faster the temp rises up around 65 deg's everything is new no reman stuff vac it down to -28, high side pressure is 225-low side pressure is 40, outside temp is 90. anyone have a clue thks dave
The diagnostic code says p2261 that the turbo charge by pass value stuck and engine light keeps coming on!
cost to replace tubing to rear air conditioner
I put a fuel pressure gauge on and got 0psi. I don't understand though cause it has to have some kind of pressure if the car runs
Triggered security and reading driver 1
Security word stays on but car wont say anything. How do I reset security?
the time and when it does start to move up in temp it won't go above 50 degrees but the AC will start working and works good. Than in a short time the temp starts going back down and than the AC begins to not working again. I have replaced the outdoor temp probe and the inside control box but the problem still continues.
I don't know were to look anymore and would really appreciate some help.
need to replace wires under engine
The AC is cooling, no problem there, and I can get cold air from to defroster vents and floor vents in the front, but it is no really blowing from the vents in the dash. This just started today
It just seems like it runs a little hotter than I should but when I put the AC on it runs only a quarter of the temperature gauge otherwise the fans don't run until the temperature gauge is past halfway
Car was driving fine noticed one morning it act like it didnt want to start but it did after two trys, later that day go out to leave and it just wouldn't fire, it acts like it wants too, tried crank sensor already.
Once it starts sputtering it will get no gas at all and bogs down once the gas is pushed further to floor. I drove it 9mile once this began. It drove okay if gas pedal was barely pushed
the drivers side is the wheel that shakes the ball joints are in ok shape the tire is missing 1.50 tire weight. the air pressure is at speciation. the car will not shake at all Intel I press the bakes the brake pedal does not jolt back. I took it to 5 certified shops and they told me that they could not fix it because they don't no what is wrong I flushed the break line. please help
Is this a common problem with a 2003 Buick Century
When I turn my key to on position no dash lights.it act like it want to crank but don't catch turns right back off I put new fuel filter on it the starter is good so what do I need to do next to save money from buying parts I don't need
Put fluid in mash on brakes all I hear is air. Fluid leak on ground
All vents blow air into the cabin with exception of the ones actually on dash facing you. Even the ones facing the door by Windows work. Any ideas on issue or location of where to look??
Transmission has been rebuilt . now i get a chattering in front wheels when going up hill
checked battery changed starter checked starter checked fuses relay clicks sometimes it does not click
It's been serviced. They fell me that the compressor is not turning off at all.
I have replaced module, hazards work, turn signals still do not work. Where should I look next
We have replaced the starter, battery, checked the alternator. It just doesn't start with no rhyme or reason whenever it wants, generally at least once a month and has to be jumped. In fact, this last time it wouldn't even jump. I think it's an electrical/computer issue, but no one wants to take me seriously. The alarm or dinging and message on the dash says rear door ajar or whatever, and no matter how many times I shut all the doors, again with no rhyme or reason it will stop or it won't.
If it is a pressure control solenoid do you have instructions on how to change it myself on the mechanically inclined Individual
Already installed new radiator and water pump
The hoses on both sides of the engine are hot but radiator is still cold
My 92 buick windows don't roll down and horn don't work
I've replaced dude and added 1.5 cans freeon
Already replaced the rack n pinion
Fuses were ok. Guessing it might be bad blower control module, blower control resister, or bad blower, or some relay or large fuse.
Symptoms - The car cranks but does not start. I have had the car into the dealer 3 times and purchased spare relays and spare fuse box from them. Car became very unreliable...never knew when it was going to start. I replaced fuel pump relays 8 times until my third (and hope final) visit to dealer (Barnes Wheaton GM in South Surrey BC). Total bill so far about US$1700. 1st visit (Sep 15 2015)- they replaced fuel pump and relay. Car ran until..... 2nd visit (Dec 01 2015) - they replaced fuse box with used fuse box from Detroit because GM did not have any new ones at any warehouse!!! They read bulletin 15-NA-051 that referred to fuel pump relay problems due to rear seat clip and modified seat clip so it no longer protruded into fuse box cover. After this visit whenever the car kept on cranking past the usual quick start, I would stop cranking right away and check the fuel pump relay which was always fried. This happened about ~5 times until..... Jun 22 2016 - Visited dealer (after my phone calls not answered) to discuss repeated problem and possible causes with Barnes Wheaton Service Manager - he reviewed the problem with me for 1+ hours and found a deep mark in fuse box cover that indicated that the used fuse box installed in my car on Dec 01 had been in contact with the seat clip probably before being installed in my car (since the seat clip in my car had already been trimmed back.) 3rd visit ( Jun 23 2016) - they checked wiring between fuse box and fuel pump carefully at my request and replaced the used fuse box with new one I had purchased to keep on hand due to unreliable starts. So far after 10 starts it still works and I am a little bit more confident that we have found the problem (damaged fuse box terminal due to seat clip?), but only time will tell. One independent local mechanic mentioned that he had replaced fuel pumps etc regularly (1/week) because of poor quality gas available near our area. To eliminate this as a possible cause I have changed to super premium (no ethanol) to eliminate this as a possible cause. GM's lack of interest in this problem is disgusting...I have read over 60 complaints for this car from 2006-2011 models and no doubt this is a small sample. It is the most common complaint for the Lucerne on websites like this. Also: --The bulletin re the seat clip is not available publicly online, This is an easy home handyman fix and would save much frustration and dollars. -- Despite the fact that this was a common and serious problem with this car, GM did not stock new replacement fuse boxes. This prolonged my problem.
- Clive R