BMW 525i QuestionsRefine by vehicle
the center arm rest that slides forward will not slide back into position AND I CAN NOT FIGURE OUT WHY
can i reduce bmw radiator fan speed with car manual if its possible how
whats the cost for replacing a valve cover gasket for a bmw525i
my bmw525i/03 has vibration with accelrating and high RPM.checked and found O2 sensor fault.changed plugs but still same problem
will start with hot wire to starter
when the fail safe came into opperation the car was locked into a gesr,I turned off the ignition and re started the engine and it seemed fine,i am still concerned though
turned up idle didn't help
bmw 525i 2002 driver seat wont work, fuse is good, got current to seat switch, new switch, but still wont work any of the motors
How Do You Charge A 1992 BMW 525i, With A Battery Charger? Where Are The Positive Terminal Located Under The Hood?
using premium gas. have 80k miles.
when i go over bumps there is a shimmy in my steering, and when i go to turn right there is a low pitched groaning that sounds like its comming from the suspension, at higher speeds no sound, left side only makes the sound when turning hard and then not very loud. problem also seems to be worse in morning when its 45 degrees out
4f92 repir guide
in the morning the car sounds like a jack hammer is coming from the engine.after 1 or 2 minutes it stops.
I recently bought this vechicle from a family member an when I drive the car it smokes alot. It comes from the back the gas pipe. I put oil in it an it seems to not smoke as bad please help me? NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ARE ON.
abs,airbag lights are on,alarm door locks dont work, driver seat wont move, passenger seat works fine, mirrors dont move.I have checked all fuses,none are blown,enviromental controls come on but the blower motor doesnt please help me! thanks.
my harzard came on by themselves after slaming on the breaks and i cant figure out how to get them ton turn off
just wandering what could be the problem from changing my battery that would make the a/c not blow how would I go about fixing it have you herd of this problem before
Check engine light comes on and goes off.
lights come on and horn blows
there is a choice between a 9v battery saver and a 12 volt
How can I install the tensioner spring back in place?
Greg's Auto...Question about total check of coolant system outlined yesterday in my request for help...I replied today to your suggestion about hydracarbons in system...I ment to
ask you about the lack of heat up to the system's Rad return
hose. System totally in play...ran engine to operating temp...about 210...checked the top feeder rad hose...it was about normal temp...Checked Rad return hose...cool no heat. However, when I disconect the return hose and run engine coolant flows through hose and heats up as the temp goes up
in the engine while running...THE RAD RETURN HOSE REMINING
COOL TO THE TOUCH HAS BE COURIOUS. Also, as noted in my first
scream for HELP...With cooling system totally hooked up and the engine off...I opened the Rad Cap...squeez the feeder hose and it forces coolant out of the cap opening...I squeezed the lower return hose...the same happens it forces coolant out the Rad Cap as well....That tells me that the return hose and radiator are not blocked...Right or Wrong.
Heat up issue cont...New w-pump, therostat, flushed engine, system bleeding done. At operating temp. car rad has pressure. Re-flushed engine...while doing so discontect return rad hose...ran water through sytem...pumps out re-turn hose...hot. When I hook all hose up, bleed system and
run...found top feeder rad hose get normally hot...However, the return hose remains cool?? Odd cuz while checking return hose out put while disconnected the coolant flows through motor. System hoses hook up...both get hard can't squeez them. Stop engine with hoses hook up...squeez them both...pressure from each does push coolant up and out the open rad cap??? Does any one have any thoughts on this problem? Car from motor cold to about 2 miles out hits RED
zone...Temp of motor at that point is valid...HOT!!!!
Car was running fine...yesterday go about 1 mile and the motor would heat up to RED zone. Water pump and termostat
changed a week ago. That corrected earlier heat up issue. I
thought I had it resolved...Now, I noticed when turning on the inside heat it doesn't blow as hot as it use to...Prior to heat up after new water pump and thermostat. Any one know what might be the problem.
NOTE: I am still looking for what took my tail lights and dash lights out...All fuses good...hood and rear seat. Checked trunk wire harness...can not find wire break???? If
any one knows what harness I should be checking in the trunk area...to bundles/ lines with multi wires run back there on the left side of the trunk as you are looking in. Which bundle the BIG or the smaller of the two bundles. Also, advise which color of wires whould I pay most attention to?
email@example.com direct contact. Zip...thanks for the leads on checking out the light issues...So far no find.
gsum firstname.lastname@example.org direct hit.
Two days ago...dash lights and one tail light(left) were fine...Dash message told me tail light out...The right on was. Removed the light shocket on the right side...replaced 10w sliver base bulb
rated for BMW replacement for tail light. As I was replacing the bulb socket back into body port
all went black...Now I have NO tail lights and NO
dash lights. I assume that a short must have been created as I was placing the right bulb socket back into the body cavity that holds the buld and socket. I also assume that the metal contact points at the top of the right bulb socket must have shorted some way??? All I know is I have no
tail or dash lights. All fuses show OK?? Does any one have a resolve for my problem??? I get no warning message on the panel indicator. Again 1991 BMW 525i automatic Any one can hit me direct at
email@example.com or post back on blog board...
ANY HELP MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!!!
Some one may have tride to break in the car how can I reset the secerty and start the car
My battery was recently replaced in my 525i (a couple months ago). Earlier this week, I tried to start my car, and it sounded like another dead battery. It finally cranked, but when it did, multiple messages appeared on the screen, including transmission failure, break system failure, and passenger airbag failure. Also, after the battery was replaced, my passenger power seat no longer works. We took it in to the BMW dealership, and they replaced the CAS (?) for $800. That did not work, and now they are saying that the KBM module needs replacing. The car is doing the exact same thing it did before the CAS was replaced - it has trouble starting and a transmission light is coming on (won't let me put into drive). I really don't want to have to continue paying for what seems to be guess work. Any suggestions?
right now iam useing the door key and it keeps going off can i set it so its not going off when a car drives by and wher is the adjustment for it thank you with your help
The car is a 1980 BMW 528i with a 6 cyl. engine. The white smoke only seems to come out when i rev the engine, not during normal driving. It also has a manual transmission.
The car knocks most when it's been sitting for a long time turned off. This is usually when it is most likely to shut off when I come to a stop and am not in gear.
The car also does not seem to accelarate as much in the lower gears (1-3) as it did prior to this problem.
The check engine light also recently came on.
I recently had the car serviced to repair a leaking oil pan, so I'm not sure if the two problems are related.