BMW 328i Questions
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I HAVE CHANGED THE REAR TIRES AND SHOCKS
I HAVE REPLACED THE REAR TIRES AND SHOCKS
All the time. I wonder if it related
The light continue to stay on after shutting the car off. The light will not go off, stays orange and it drains my battery so I know something is still on and will not shut off. When the light on the Push/Start button goes out, a second later it turns back on. What can be the cause of this? Is it something in the computer that needs to be reset?
Also Push/start button stats on and kills battery, what causing it not to completely shut off. Other then the misfire, I need to figure out if the computer need to be reset or is it a simple problem?
It seems like it wants to die out or lose all power etc. Never had this happen. Checked out all belts etc and nothing out of the ordinary. Taking it to my BMW shop for evaluation.
service engine light is on. This happened a few months back and it fixrd itself. Same thing. The handheld diagnostics says the car is running too cold. Inturned off the AC and it went away. I just figured I had the AC overworked. Now its happening again. Could it be just a coolant temp sensor? And mayve a coolant flush could fix the issue? Or do you think it's the thermostat? It looks like a very hard job and I have to get the housing and everything.
Brake light has been on for years but I dont know why. Nobody can figure it out. I replaced the brake pad sensors but the red brake light has been on since. Any ideas on this issue? I am trying to sell my car now. But want to fix these teo issues
I have replaced the brake light switch,re-grounded the bulb circuit board,replaced brake light bulbs they are still intermitting.I am trying to find the brake light relay......
HOW MUCH IS MY KEY GOING TO COST FOR MY 2000BMW 328i
I've put fuel in but nothing. A different friend said something about the clutch and starter needing to be replaced now. I don't trust what he says. Never had a problem with either one of them before. I think it might be either the fuel pump or filter. Also now the battery won't hold a charge. Please if any idea's, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I have had the spark plugs changed. A new starter I was told to change the coils? This only happens at a stop.
The car has duel heating control for driver side and passenger side and works fully on the passenger side but will only blow cold air weather its on normal hearing or a/c on the drivers side, this is also the same for the windscreen blower. Has any one had this before? Any solutions?
then when I drove off,it made a loud whistling noise and wanted to stall when I got to a stop.The revs were dropping also.the whistling noise got quieter when I accelerated.Once I let off just slightly,it got loud again.
I pulled over and switched the engine off for five minutes,when i restarted the car,all was back to normal.THis has happend once before,car rocked when started,but whistling noise started once car was warm...help!!
I understand the flushing the entire system will harm your transmission. Therefore, how many quarts of fluid can I expect to extract from removing the pans and drain plugs? Do I need to drain and refill multiple to make clean. Since Dexron III-Mercon is the lifetime fill, and no longer available, What fluid can I use that won't destroy my transmission?
door lock buttons will not move up or down.
my brake lights turn on when I turn my car on , I already replaced the the brake pedal stop light switch but they go on when key is in position 2.
Specifically the horn and door locks via comfort access features
Car has idling problems when A/C is on and sitting still after about 5 to 10 minutes. It feels like the engine wants to shut down. hesitation last only a few seconds and not consistent. Happens less frequent without A/C on. No diagnostic codes logged during fault.
After coming home from a trip, (there had been heavy rain two days before, but nothing in the car was wet), we found the windows down, and top window vent was open and the car was locked. First time occurrence.