Audi A4 Quattro QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Sometimes it wont shift to first gear and sometime it does and vice versa with the second gear
I was just wanting to know what parts will & will not work on my car.
anti freeze leaked on the driver side from under the dash board.
It doesn't look like a standard bolt that I can just remove from my seat tracks. What tool do I need to remove these bolts? I really want to vacuum and shampoo the carpet under my car seats.
I have a rare color of Pearlesence on my Audi, and my car is a bit older. Can I find a matching touch-up paint online, or so I have to go the local Audi dealership to order it?
My car has no pickup, and the acceleration is poor. I also don't hear my turbo whistling or spinning like on other cars.
When cutting the wheel either direction while moving forward at low speeds, there is a rubbing sound. This is especially noticeable when on bumpy surfaces.
Car got hit on driver rear side. Now it displays a "in 2" on odometer and oil lights blinking too. Car also starts but does not go anywhere.
Recently replaced the fuel pump. Now, the car drives but has zero power.
Car worked fine, next day all kinds of symbols showed up on dash. The air does not work unless it's on defrost,cruise does not work, radio does not shut off when key is removed and door is opened, steering wheel controls do not work, toms light is on even though tires are at 40psi, Lights work but the warning light is on. HELP all this happened overnite when car was parked in garage. Took to repair shop I was recommended to and he had no clue and told me to take to Audi. Codes 05495,49412,49508,01317,00474,49682,01317,01312,00474,01800,00532
My dad has 05 audi Quattro 2.o turbo he has 1st 2nd an 3rd gear but no 4th 5th or 6 culd this be the tranny bad? He can get it up too 80 an it runs at about 6000rpm plz any help or advice wuld be appreciated
3000 rpm' my low oil pressure light comes on. Oil is changed and checked regularly.
My speedometer is not working (weeks ago, it was on and off but now it's just off all the time. I replaced the Vehicle Speed Sensor with no luck, as well as F/L ABS Sensor. Any suggestions on what the next move should be?
My car is at Audi now , I've never used this dealer. I got complete inspection and diagnostics for $100 at the other Audi dealer a hour away. This one quotes me $228 for each complaint they check. $228 yo check the creaking sound in front. $228 to check why it's overheating. $228 to check high revving thing it's doing. Is it just me or is that the most ridiculous thing you've ever heard ? I feel like I'm getting jacked.
When I add oil every couple days the oil does not burn. I dont have any oil leaks from under the car but have residue on the top of the engine by the oil cap but still have to add oil every couple days
I have a 3.2 L V6 engine. The diagnostics mentions Fuel Pressure regulator 1 performance. I was on an on ramp getting onto the high way. I shifted up from 5th to 6th gear and then the CEL came on. The car accelerates great and has the power when I want. I don't feel any hesitation. Gas mileage has decreased. The light hasn't shut off after 3 days of driving. Online searching mentions the following. Low Pressure Fuel Pump, High Pressure Fuel Pump, Fuel sensor, or Fuel Filter.
completely bent in the front control arms upper and lower probably screwed up the axle torque to the sway bar and links was going to buy a whole new kit for All 4 anyway and suspension seem to be acting up in the rear as well so just wanted to estimate and an idea as to what it would cost to replace if I purchased one of those all in kits off Amazon car is located in Bellevue WA seems to have some how lost reverse gear too.
It has a cracked coolant reservoir tank that I tried patching up my self with no success and can't find where it leaks coolant from
Bought a car that had been run over a parking concrete barrier. It sheared the lower oil pan and broke the upper one. I replaced all of the parts that were broken and the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump and the original fuel filter (137K long overdue) The car will run if supplied fuel into the intake but no fuel comes out of the fuel rail. Is there a shut off I am missing somewhere or should I move forward with blowing out the fuel line as a next step? All of the fuses appear fine. The car sat for over a year after being wrecked. It shows no codes on the dash when I try to start it.
My car has the check engine light on and so I scanned the car and got back a p0118 error code. I noticed you guys have a page about it and that a misdiagnosis can be bad coolant. my car often starts cold rough and runs the fan when still cold but then it turns off and wont really turn on once the car is warm even if I turn it off and back on. the check engine light pretty much stays on all the time. my temp gauge sits in the middle like it should and doesn't waver. I was wondering if these symptoms are more likely the coolant or the sensor or if there is no way to tell. also there seems to be two different coolant temp sensors mentioned on the internet, one that costs $80 and is a total pain to replace or a $20 part that you can replace without any real tools. Is it worth changing the coolent myself before getting the more expensive part changed since they will have to swap coolant anyway?
2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0L TFSI
Had oil leak from rear main seal area and CEL lights on. Diag codes pointed me to replacing the PCV valve and I also replaced all 4 coils andspark plugs, air filter and cleaned mass air flow sensor. Also changed oil and oil filter. Since replacing PCV valve the oil leak appears to have stopped with a few days of the oil that had turbo blowby finally draining out.
Diag codes had dropped from 22 to just 4 codes left. P1287 (too lean / vacuum leak) and P0300-0303 misfires on all 4 cylinders. The car was running fine but a but rough at idle. Attributed to too lean mixture. Reset systems with battery unhook and touching positive to ground and then after hooking back up did a throttle alignment. CEL was still on but car drove fine, no rough idle, perfectly normal driving. Would even say it was driving as well as day 1 with turbo power and smoothness. No noticeable misfires. Just the CEL with P2187 and the 300-303 misfires still lit up. Over past week the following codes have crept into the equation.
So now I've got codes regarding fuel press or sensor, air intake leak, vacuum leaks, and cylinder misfires.
Now if I clear the CEL. The car runs rough at idle, in park, drive, whatever.. at idle it's rough and misfiring like it wants to stall. When the CEL comes back on after a short amount of time the car returns to driving normally. So I feel like the ECU must be compensating for something and normalizing the car properly. At this point I'm stuck on what to do next. Should I change the fuel pressure sensor? Smoke thevacuum hoses? Or just continue to drive it as is with CEL on for next year and a half until I get the amount owned left on the finance of the vehicle to get rid of it without getting killed financially. I have a mechanic friend who is helping me out with troubleshooting and I cannot afford to take this to a dealership for repair, but I feel like we are close to getting this squared away and just need to either fix a hose or replace a sensor and we will be home. Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Car stalled out and electronic malfunction light came on
Fault code P0420 is common in Audi's. And it refers to an inefficient catalytic converter. However, I have found that the fix for this fault code is seldom the catalyst itself but rather replacing the oxygen sensor.
I was hoping that someone could expand a bit on what they have read or seen in their experiences with Audi's? Thank you all and have a great day.