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My car has the check engine light on and so I scanned the car and got back a p0118 error code. I noticed you guys have a page about it and that a misdiagnosis can be bad coolant. my car often starts cold rough and runs the fan when still cold but then it turns off and wont really turn on once the car is warm even if I turn it off and back on. the check engine light pretty much stays on all the time. my temp gauge sits in the middle like it should and doesn't waver. I was wondering if these symptoms are more likely the coolant or the sensor or if there is no way to tell. also there seems to be two different coolant temp sensors mentioned on the internet, one that costs $80 and is a total pain to replace or a $20 part that you can replace without any real tools. Is it worth changing the coolent myself before getting the more expensive part changed since they will have to swap coolant anyway?
2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0L TFSI
Had oil leak from rear main seal area and CEL lights on. Diag codes pointed me to replacing the PCV valve and I also replaced all 4 coils andspark plugs, air filter and cleaned mass air flow sensor. Also changed oil and oil filter. Since replacing PCV valve the oil leak appears to have stopped with a few days of the oil that had turbo blowby finally draining out.
Diag codes had dropped from 22 to just 4 codes left. P1287 (too lean / vacuum leak) and P0300-0303 misfires on all 4 cylinders. The car was running fine but a but rough at idle. Attributed to too lean mixture. Reset systems with battery unhook and touching positive to ground and then after hooking back up did a throttle alignment. CEL was still on but car drove fine, no rough idle, perfectly normal driving. Would even say it was driving as well as day 1 with turbo power and smoothness. No noticeable misfires. Just the CEL with P2187 and the 300-303 misfires still lit up. Over past week the following codes have crept into the equation.
So now I've got codes regarding fuel press or sensor, air intake leak, vacuum leaks, and cylinder misfires.
Now if I clear the CEL. The car runs rough at idle, in park, drive, whatever.. at idle it's rough and misfiring like it wants to stall. When the CEL comes back on after a short amount of time the car returns to driving normally. So I feel like the ECU must be compensating for something and normalizing the car properly. At this point I'm stuck on what to do next. Should I change the fuel pressure sensor? Smoke thevacuum hoses? Or just continue to drive it as is with CEL on for next year and a half until I get the amount owned left on the finance of the vehicle to get rid of it without getting killed financially. I have a mechanic friend who is helping me out with troubleshooting and I cannot afford to take this to a dealership for repair, but I feel like we are close to getting this squared away and just need to either fix a hose or replace a sensor and we will be home. Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
I didn't want to start replacing parts, crank sensor, etc. until I could pull some codes, but I cannot retrieve information off engine computer.
Few days ago I tried to drive my car and it did not go more than 5 mph. The engine was running but the car barely moved. Took it to the dealer where I was told it was the oxygen sensor, they replace it, but it did not resolve the issue. Now they are telling me I need to pay 3.400 $ for a new turbo catalyst converter. any advise?
I accidentally added power steering fluid to brake fluid. How do I flush my brakes?
if i try to idle at 1000 rpm it surges from 2000 to 500 rpm it has emission codes would exhaust leak or emission sensors cause this ?
Will run perfectly for weeks then fails to start. Have tried new coil. There is always a spark. Even tried replacing the air ram. If left for about 30 mins it will start again normally. Any ideas?
when the ignition is on the temperature reaches to 90. the coolant level is at max. water pump is working fine. temperature sensor is working fine.
what is the reason for this problem. kindly advise . the car reached 195000 km.
What could it means no oil is leaking
Could this be a problem with a fuse? What can I do?
Aux .Fan won't shut off
Cant find physical location of the part. In order to replace the part.
Car stalled out and electronic malfunction light came on
Fault code P0420 is common in Audi's. And it refers to an inefficient catalytic converter. However, I have found that the fix for this fault code is seldom the catalyst itself but rather replacing the oxygen sensor.
I was hoping that someone could expand a bit on what they have read or seen in their experiences with Audi's? Thank you all and have a great day.
my car seems to have been in park break park mode when I press the button to release brake it malfunction now I gt the car to move but the p with a line over it is on the dash board
had converts 2 ea. replaced all 4 o2 sensors replaced w/Audi ones 3 times still have o2 sensor faults that , saying too high resistance and short to b+ never changed . the Audi garage can't figure it out so can anyone help thanks mike
Let it sit for a couple of hours and was able to drive it home. At the time all the lights on the gear select where blinking. What should I do repair or get new car
VAG codes: 16539, 16684,16875,16876
Car seems to run fine, looking for least expensive way to pass NM emissions.
Beautiful car/runs fine 126K VAG codes: 16539, 16684, 16875, 16876.Trying to find least expensive way to pass emissions.