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It broke while I was driving it and it sounded like a flat tire or something. When I got out and observed it, it was busted and could be seen through the rear tire well. It also looked like it started to scrape the back bumper and rear portion of the wheel well.
I had my gasket replace, plugs, and oil change.
on my camry my vsv valve is not getting any power what or where does the power come from
the ac still runs cold but make one heck of a noise it started when my daughter shut the door and yes we have tried to get it stopped
I WILL LIKE TO KNOW THE CYLINDER HEAD TORQUE SPECS
can I bring it to the nearest ford place
Adding fluid but no visible signs of leaking anywhere.
I'm hoping for an opinion before I take my car in to a repair shop tomorrow for an estimate tomorrow. Short back story, I've had my car for 9 years and it's got a transmission that slips all over the place, but has been that way for three years. Since that would be so expensive and there are other things wrong with it I'm not paying to fix it, I've just been driving it and doing minimal maintenence for as long as I can while I save up money for a new/used car. (and amazingly it hasn't gotten worse, I just avoid freeway driving when possible) I was driving home today, and after just a few minutes I smelled a horrible buring smell (unfortunately I don't know the difference between a fluid burning smell and an electrical smell) and the airbag light was on. Odd, i thought. So I pulled over, I opened the hood thinking the smell was in there, nothing. Got back in the car and realized there was a tiny amount of white smoke coming from the center console, where the e-brake is. This scared me a little so I sat still for a bit... but decided I'd have to drive it home at least. The smell continued the whole time I was driving, the airbag light stayed on. I'm worried it's electrical and isn't safe to drive to the repair shop. How would I know the difference? Any chance it could just be a leaky oil valve cover or something? I figure it I can get a repair under $500 and keep driving it for awhile while I continue to save money I will. Any opinions would be helpful! I unfortunately don't know much about cars either so I always have that stereotypical worry that I'll get ripped off because I'm a single woman at a repair shop...
It is working as if the plugs are not ok, then after scanning i got this code, P0304 then we changed the ECM and still the same.
I was driving my truck early this week and noticed that when I turned over the engine a bunch of white smoke came pouring out tail pipe and could smell antifreeze. Filled with some water and had no problems until 4 days later my truck was sucking gallons and gallons of water, over heated and started blowing a black smoke. Now it is really sucking the water down even more. What is wrong?
I read where you have to flush and bleed the system. I have driven it to get the fluid to fill all the lines, but then discovered that they say you have to suspend the front wheels off the ground and work it right to left till all the air is out and you are not filling the fluid any further. Is it necessary to do this method? Is there anything else that could be wrong that I am missing? I am at wits end and need to get my power steering back. Please help!
how much engine coolant do i need to buy when my brother flushes my radiator for me
RECENTLY MY ALTERNATOR HAD TO BE REPLACED(130 AMP) I THINK SOME WHERE ALONG THE LINE THE FUSE BLEW TO THE SEAT. THE MANUEL SAYS IT'S NEAR THE BATTERY. COULD YOU TELL ME WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE, SO I CAN CHECK AND REPLACE THE FUSE. THE SEAT WORKED FINE PRIOR TO ALTERNATOR GOING BAD. DAM GOOD VAN OTHERWISE WITH 196 THOUSAND MILES ON IT, AND RUN'S NEW WITH ICE COLD AIR.PS. IF YOU CAN SEND PIC OF FUSE CONNECTION THAT WOULD BE EVEN BETTER.
I have lost all power to anything that is wired through the steering column. Including Hazards, Ignition, HVAC, Radio, Windows and Turn Signals. I need a starting point before I give up and grab my multi meter and start at the battery and check the entire harness.