2003 Land Rover Freelander QuestionsRefine by vehicle
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changed out fuel pump already car is still stalling after warmed up
It ran fine and I shut it off, and now it will not start. The starter cranks, but the engine won't turn over. I have noticed a minor oil leak since the problem started. I checked the relays, and they are all good. Please help with this issue.
This problem occurs daily. Doesn't matter how far you drive, could be a mile or 100 miles. Turn it off and it won't restart. Turns over good, but no ignition. Wait 15 min. and it starts.
Hi, I have a 2003 2.5L gas Freelander that a month or so ago when started exhibiting intermittent severe losses of power. I have an inexpensive Blue Tooth code reader that I use with the Torque app on my smart phone. Various fault codes come up equating to one or both banks "too lean" then various misfires.
When started from cold it starts up as normal for the first 5 to 10 seconds (must be starting on some sort of predefined rich starting mixture and control) then when it would normally back down to idle rpm it begins to run very rough and often dies. Pressing the accelerator during this drop off has little or no effect. You can hear the extra air flow but the rpms don’t pick up and instead it either coughs and jumps or just dies. At this point if you try starting it multiple times and keep the rpms up during and after the 5 – 10 second startup cycle it will eventually “clear itself” and run pretty normal - for a while.
Then using my code reader and having my son ride along and monitor some of the engine parameters I’ve been able to test drive it and make a few observations: When it’s running well the short term fuel trim on both banks is up around 27%. Then for some reason these trims start stepping down (he can watch them on a graph and they tend to move together in what looks like a stair step pattern) and eventually go to zero. While this is happening the engine loses power and all but dies. Keeping the rpms up can prevent or reverse the step down in trim and roughness. So it seems that higher rpms help the situation but I’m not sure. Also, once the engine is warmed up, shutting it off and restarting always brings it back to normal for at least the first 5 – 10 seconds and often it will continue to run fine for up to 10 minutes or more (as long as it’s not just at idle).
I don’t know which is the cause and which is the effect. The engine control unit seems to be stepping the fuel mixture down to the point that it’s too lean to even run but I don’t know what the root cause is. And keeping the rpms up either mitigates the underlying root cause or puts the engine control unit in some other control “mode” that automatically calls for a richer mixture.
I’ve tested the fuel pressure, looked at the spark plugs, monitored the O2 sensors, cleaned and monitored the mass airflow sensor, looked for vacuum leaks etc. but I’m not sure what to try next.
Oh and by the way, I have had some trouble with the butterfly valves and motors in the plastic part of the intake manifold so they could be acting up again but I’m assuming they couldn’t cause these more serious symptoms?
Anyone have any ideas?
I want to add a red LED light strip on the outer edge of each door...the aspect exposed when the door is open…where the latch is located. I want these red lights to illuminate with the interior lights when a door is opened...to make open doors highly visible to street bicyclists at night. Easy to wire if I can tap into the switch or activator wiring but where is the switch? No visible spring-loaded button switch anywhere on the door frame. So, where is the switch?
when I step on the gas it takes a while for the car to go fast
UPPER heater hose Does not s to be hard when I squeeze.
The rear window does not work - made a grinding sound, but nothing now. The dealer told me I needed a window regulator and wiring replaced. this doubles the price from $400ish to $850. Is this in the ballpark?
since my MOT and having some work done on brakes about month ago the engine warning light flashed for a second them went off again this got worse and more frquent I spoke to garage and they looked and said there was a bit of oil on spark plugs and head gasket that they sorted as was leaking a little. the head gasket was changes about 12 months ago. today the warning light came on constantly. I have checked the coolant and oil and they are fine
Any ideas what is could be or what i need to look at next
low compression #1 and# 2 and missing w/ check engine on plus igniction coil like no good