2003 BMW 330xi QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My car has been sitting for about a year and I can't start it cuz starter don't work I'm getting it fixed soon but I was wondering if I should do a engine flush. The car has over 100000 miles on it. What should I do after I get the starter in should I start it or what?
In the morning white smoke come out when I turn it on, and when I'm driving it would smoke
Have had the injectors cleaned, also have run several cans of sea foam through as well. as long as I am moving, the car drives well. Mechanic is stumped. Started 3 weeks ago, suddenly. Have 155,000 miles, car is well maintained, also replaced spark plugs and checked for vacuum leaks
Found a replacement fender for a good price now I need to know how much it will cost to have it put on
While driving my BMW randomly started cutting out, it was very jerky and sputtered me to the side of the road. Now when I start it it struggles to start and once going it will cut out a few times and die. What could be causing this and how do I fix it?
When I use the heat, cold air comes from the vents. My car is not overheating, so I am wondering what it could be, besides a thermostat.
I recently purchased vehicle. Car runs poorly if not warmed up; need help!
Car is not overheating; fan is not running at random times. T
I replaced the output shaft seal from the transfer case to the front, drained and replace the TC oil with oil from BMW, now the car is not going into low gear when I try to drive off from a stop.
Any help will be welcomed!
With the issues concerning the axels/cv boots that keep coming up with the 330xi, is the 330i a better bet expense-wise?
If I find a used 330xi that already had the axels/cv boots fixed somewhere b/t 60K and 90k, is the problem likely fixed for another 50k miles or so, or is this sometimes a continual problem?
I was doing some research online, and came across the recall for this model's tail light assembly. So I gave my local dealership a call, BMW of Murray. The assistant manager of the service department told me the recall item I asked about was previously replaced while my car was in the shop, back in October 2013. I was actually pretty surprised by this news; I had no idea that it was even done. I don't even remember it being on the paper work for that appointment (but I'll have to look into that!) The gentleman I was speaking with, stated without out looking at the car in person, he'd assume that is was a light control module.
Has anyone come across this at all? So the driver's rear park lamp will flicker while the car is off and with no key in the ignition and sporadic; when the car also encounters participation, i.e. snow, rain, sleet or ice; the dash indicators which tell you when there's a parking/head light bulb burnt out will light up. Which would indicate that there's bulbs burnt out. Only the front passage side park light indicator and the rear driver side park light indicator will turn on and has been consistent with each winter storm that passes through. All this happens when there's not even a burnt out bulb. This will remain the same until the car drys off and out in a couple of days... then every thing is back to normal agian!
I just had to replace the gas filter and fuel pump.It was driving fine then suddenly it lost power would't accererate and all the lights on the dash lit up.It then stalled.I restarted it and the traction control light, brake light one other lite came on.It would then accelerate.I pulled over shut it off and restarted it.All the lights went off and it ran normal. I scanned for codes and got code 1638.
How difficult is it to replace with a new thermostat? I have some mechanical ability but haven't worked on this car other than changing the oil and filter myself.
While driving, the car started beeping, the oil light came on and all dials went to zero. The odometer also reset itself to zero miles driven and it no longer reads the outside temperature. The car never shut off and after that one 5 second incident, never happened again. Hoping someone could make some suggestions or she d little light on the issue. Thanks!
i replaced my coolant expansion tank and replaced the automatic thermastat in the expansion tank. got everything hooked back up and ran my car and it started to overheat. How do i know when the bleeder valve is done bleeding out the air?
My BMW has 60k miles on it. It is gradually taking longer and longer for it to get into 1st gear from Park. It now takes about 5 seconds and in the winter sometimes 8 to 10 seconds. Based on other forums I think the ATF is low also I looked into the Automatic Transmission Fluid container in the engine compartment and it is at the "minimum" level. Should I just top it off (if so which ATF fluid should I use) or should I have an indy shop change it for me?