Does professor g know what problem code ps 1336 means?

Unfortunately, i researched my tachometer because it seemed "stuck" on about 1500. Apparently they have had many quests with tach that didn't work because the gauge gets stuck to the clear plastic cover...and of course my vehicle does that too. I have to take that cover off. i really didn't want to take my dash apart. I want to plug this scanner in again because i had another code and cannot remember. The 1336 reading was on the freeze data. Then on the diagnostic menu I got 1336 and another. I will get that too. I've been so overwhelmed with an ailing mother and trying to get her stuff in order. You have been a Godsend. Also, i took the distributor cap off saturday to check for metal shavings. In that process the rotor got broken. I replaced it with the correct one, and now it doesn't run at all, but I was able to run the scannerI cannot say anything about the tach except it never moves. Bummed!

Ok don't worry about the tach right now, let's find the issue.

Just to add that the distributor rotor is held in place by a small screw,, did you put it back in place? Also the top of the (2 piece) dist shaft is held into place by another screw, have seen these get loose as well! Like i stated before, these distributors are very unreliable!! Hope you get it fixed.

I had a hell of a time removing the small screw that holds the rotor on. They had that sucker reefed on so damn tight. i used a box end wrench, with a crosspoint screwdriver at the same time, then had a larger wrench to use as a cheater on the freaking box end! In the process I broke the rotor. I am surprised i got the screw off without breaking. A new one came with the rotor. I only saw one. I will research that. Should I connect the scanner to the car again? I have the software installed on my PC that came with the unit as well. I am mechanically inclined, and I am aware that I don't do cars. i am trying to be extremely careful, but still broke that rotor. I thought it was a 12 dollar booboo, but now no fire I took another look at the distributor. Underneath the rotor on the end of the shaft there is a recess with another screw. It is in place. But, There is a flange near where the rotor sits that has what looks like a graduated dial underneath it. All around the center of the dial, around the distributor shaft, is a bunch of corrosion. There appears to be a modest amount in the area under that plastic cover that sits below the rotor and is held on with two screws. I always considered the distributor a precision mechanism, and was a little surprised to see rust in the center of it

So obviously there is a related problem to the work you just did! It was running,,, poorly but running before you fooled with the distributor...recheck your work!

Read the last sentence in my last post, PR is explaining it more simple and obvious.

Every bit of the advice given on this matter is good! However, now it is pretty much up to you what to do with it.. if we could put hands on your vehicle, it would be wonderful but we can't! Good luck with the repair, hope it all works out!!

I have changed a few distributor caps in my day. I was just out there painstakingly checking it again. Yes, I lost "Fire" after following advice and "Fooled" with the distributor. I even wondered if the new rotor has a protective film over the contacts to protect during shipping! Is it common to have rust inside a distributor? If I had money i would take it ion. I would have done that in the first place. I am totally screwed. I'll let you know if it turns out to be anything interesting

Rust in the distributer is a bad thing.

I hate to pester you again. I am a bit gun sht. I haven't even owned a vehicle in years let alone worked on one. Before I remove the old distr9butor I will need to TDC cyl 1. If I remember that is the piston's highest point during the4 compression/ignition stroke right. Therefore the rotor should be pointing at number one in distributor caP? I can just turn the motor with a socket right?

When the number one cylinder is at TDC, it is the high point of the compression/ignition stroke right? The rotor should9 be pointed at the number one spark plug wire in the distributor cap?

If it's where it should be just mark the base in an area the new one you can identify the same spot and mark something the rotor will point to before removing the old one and use as a reference for the new one. Make sure you are on compression stroke for TDC #1 not just highest point it could be TDC #4. Pay attention first.

Right1 I thought I could differentiate between TDC 1 and TDC 4 by checking the rotor: make sure it is pointed to fire cyl one not 4

It should be fine then, just make sure the dist is mounted in the right spot so #1 will be correct.