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Q: Rough idle at stops/low speeds, intermittent cel on 2000 Honda CR-V

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My check engine light just started coming on, we haven't noticed any engine problems other than a rough idle at stops in the past couple of days. We have tried oil changes, plugs, wires, distributor cap, etc. The original codes were the engine one misfire code and the P1399. Now that we did the tune up the engine idles badly at stops but does not stall, starts right up, drives perfect at higher speeds and on the freeway, mainly just a little shaky at stop lights. Where should I start to have this diagnosed. I bought this used a little over a year ago and it has a bit over 200,000 miles on it. I want to fix it if it is reasonable but I can't afford a new engine and still owe a bit of money on it, any suggestions??
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Sorry, my reference doesn't list P1399. I suggest you go to a Honda specialist and let him diagnose it. He'll have a scanner and can tell you what's wrong for not too much money. Or go to AutoZone, I hear they'll put a scanner on your car for free and may be able to tell you what the code means. I don't think a new engine is what you need. It's probably a sensor problem or something like that.
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It was an engine misfire code along with that one and now it is just the P1399. I was told it's a general code specific only to Hondas. Now the light mostly stays on with once in awhile flashing. It runs well other than the shakiness at stops/idling..
Sounds like you need to check your head gasket. Your losing compression in one or more of your cylinders which is what is causing the miss fire feeling as well as possible spark plug fouling. Soon the car will shut down completely. Need to get it to someone. The fix can range from $500 to $1500 dollars depending on who you take it to. Shop around to find the best price. Make sure they warranty the fix and include all new gaskets on the intake, exhaust, valve cover, etc. There is a full gasket kit available from Fel-pro that runs $175 at NAPA. This even includes new valve seals and seats, new cam seals and so on. As well, invest in new head bolts $30 at NAPA as well. The old ones have been heated and stressed for over 11 years now. They may crack or break upon re-torking. You also may have a timing belt problem. I'm betting it's the head gasket. If you haven't changed the timing belt in more than 70,000 miles have it done in the process as well as the water pump they will have to take them off anyway don't put old ones back on. If your old timing belt snaps it con destroy your engine.
Mine's been doing the same thing.... I changed the oil/spark plug/and cables. it drives fine at higher speeds but when its stopped at lights its pretty shaky, I notice that if I hit the defrost button (on the dash, not the aircon) it drops the idle down a bit, if you figure it out let me know!
As soon as I figure it out I will post it. Going to get the fuel injectors cleaned and try a couple of other things, prob get the valves adjusted as the posts suggest, other than the rough idle at stops it runs better than it has in awhile but the cel is of and on and once in awhile flashing but mostly solid, weird..
My 94 Maxima does the same thing when I hit the defrost button (for the rear window). Then it idles normally after a second. I'm waiting to hear what my problem might be. Do you ever smell gas with the heater on?
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