Mitsubishi Outlander Questions
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starts every day, but not after sitting for several...must push on accelerator a lot, sputters and sounds like its not getting gas, finally starts, but reluctantly. then idles and runs fine.
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS V6 Automatic 6 Speed with a 105,000 miles, it has never had its transmission fluid changed is it a good idea to change it now or leave it alone? Will changing the transmission fluid do more harm than good? What would be the best place to have it changed? Mitsubishi Dealer, AAMCO, Firestone, Pepboys? Which type of change is the best Flush, Drain and Fill, Drop pan?
On my 2003 Mitsubishi outlander if the crank sensor is no good will it stop the fuel pump from working
It takes a long time to heat up and just gets warm, not hot. Sometimes I get a funny smell when I run it
While driving and after turning engine off, the engine cooling fan continues to run and run, often fluctuating in speed. It annoying and is getting worse.
I believe there is a recall on this item and I want to know more about it. What needs to be changed out with the recall.
We shut it off to go into a store and came out and it wouldn't start. We have ran codes no codes showed up, had the battery tested it was good, checked the timing belt and replaced the tensioner for it because we changed the timing belt last year, made sure it was in time...was told it might be the crank shaft sensor but don't want to keep buying parts that may not fix..I'm at my wits end someone please help
Can anyone help me out with this problem I've been having for quite some time, My '07 Outlander front end sounds like a old bed broken box spring, I replaced the sway bars & tire rods on both ends but it still sounds like a broken box spring and no one can tell me where it's coming from. I was told I don't need front struts or springs but I believe they are wrong ( the dealership & pepboys ) every time I go over a speed bump I hear it, especially in the winter, Please Help
There are no gasoline marks on the floor, if not started there is no gasoline odor.
Battery indicator turned on 2 days ago. Car turned over and drives with no problem. After charging the battery, battery lite still on with no problems.As I was driving my break lights turned off. power steering shut off and did not register shift change. This morning tured over no problems. Now message for Charger, Break, ABS and ASC requires maintenance
Mitsubishi Outlander 2005 patrol and gas morning hard to start and after start engage the engine automatically engine shut up.
When engine working temperature goes everything is fine.
some time the RPM stay in correct level with or without A/C .. but when I start drive the car and stop for Signal or other reason the RPM come up and down and suddenly the engine switchoff. . I need the suliotion of this problem and this problem there are any related of Trotter body ?
My front windshield wiper motor works but not the control card for it and it's not made for it anymore!
I heard a pop while driving. Later in the day when I came back to the car there was a crack that started at the bottom of the windshield below the wiper arm. I assume a rock hit the windshield. The next day a second crack started in another direction. 3 weeks later while sitting in the car I heard a pop and another crack appeared from the bottom on the opposite side of the windshield. The reason I wondering if this is not a simple rock to windshield problem is that the first 2 outlanders I saw in the road today had similar cracks in their windshields.
The hazard lights work. The right tail light keeps going out aswell. When you hit it it comes on. Could it be lose wiring or fuses? Could not locate a fuse for the turn signals and the heater fuse looked fine. Had the car for about 6 months and about a month ago, that's when the problems started.
Could it be the thermostat or a sensor
i will Replace Engine ECU,Immobilizer ECU also Key Cylinder and Key
The fault code is p0340 camshaft position sensor i charged the camshaft and crankshaft still more the car cant start i changed the computer box nothing the wire-ling seems to be OK please help what can i do
the symble came up yesterday night and this morning it was still on.
Have a small leak code now. Before I replaced the tank and fill neck had a large leak issue. Someone cobbed it together instead of fixing it. Currently over the past 2 fill ups since repair the car lurches, loses idle rpm, shuts off when stopped. Last tank it stopped lurching at 3/4 of a tank and ran fine. Thought it might be bad gas because of this, but now I don't know.
The cars runs, but it runs very rough. And there aren't any signs of any leaks.
the false code puts the car in 'LIMP IN MODE' WHEN THERES NOTHING WRONG! can RepairPal make a recomendation?
882.00 plus parts. These are prices from the dealer. Also needs rear axle bearings and 2 tires. this has been the most expensive car I have ever owned. Bought new, always dealer serviced now has 94k. Should I just replace the engine with a rebuilt? or fix it with the possibility of main bearings rings etc in the future. Or just trade for a new Honda or other car?
My Mitsubishi will start first thing cold but if I Drive it even only a mile and shut it off it will not start. It seems to start after the blower on the engine stops running. Now maybe that's a coincidence but I also don't know how to get to codes. Please help