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Chrysler LHS Questions

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My gas gauge says full when the vehicle is turned on, but then goes to empty when the vehicle is turned off. What is the problem and how do I fix it
Doors locks , radio, mirrors, truck lock, not working, also my cooling fan module not working. Anyone else have this problem...
button On the dash does not work and neither does the trunk releases button on the key fob
My gas gauge is stuck on full, how do I reset the fuel gauge, I have a 2000 chrysler LHS 4dr
I changed the filter in the pan add a new floor put new upper and lower shift speed control modules in and it's still not shifting into 3rd gear it goes into like a neutral and revs the engine sometimes it even blows a fuse
What is wrong my car dies going down the sometimes it starts but this time it wont
My car has 136,000 original miles on it. The prior owner was a snowbird so the car was only driven 4 months out of the year for the last 6 years. Service records show the car has been routinely serviced. The car has been very well maintained and is in impeccable condition. There are no external leaks, the cooling system is full and free of air, fans are functional. It runs great. All fluids are clean. The last owner had the water pump, timing belt and thermostat changed and put in a new battery. It may need a starter. Once it has gone about 10 miles, it will start run ing hot. Turning on thr heater will always bring the temperature down. In fact, the temperature gauge will even drop to normal when the car is idling and the heater has been turned off. What in the world could be the problem? I really need an expert on this particular car and issue. Yes, the hoses are good, the coolant tank cap is good, and everything seems to check out. Can someone please help? Thank you.
2000 LHS 3.5L will begin to overheat while being driven, but then put vehicle in park and it can sit and idle a normal temperature indefinitely.
There is a very faint coolant smell, no visible leaks and the cooling system is free of air.
Engine runs great, even when temp gauge says it's getting hotter.
The engine has 135,000 miles on it and the vehicle is in superb condition. Maintenance records also indicate the car has been well taken care of.
Car began to stall and died when I pulled off road and now will not start. Cranks but don't start.
I got ready to open the hood from inside the car and the cable seemed to have broken and now the hood is stuck closed and I cannot open it.
Has done this 3 times - March, July, Sept 14. Driving at speed the car suddenly starts to lose power and then stalls. Turns over good but won't fire, like it isn't getting gas. First 2 times I had it hauled to the shop. By the time they could look at it it started just fine. Did diagnostic and it said the car was running a bit lean. But that was the only problem. They reset it and the engine light went out. This last time I got somebody to take me to work and at lunch time I had someone take me back to my car and it started just fine. Engine light still on because I can't reset. The car isn't trust worthy and winter is coming. Don't fancy sitting for 2 hours at 20 below. What would cause a car to stall and not start for a few hours and not give a problem code?
When I turn the key off, some power remains on. The A/C lights only and not the A/C, remain on. Also the power to the power windows is still on. So my battery is drained by morning. If I jiggle the key a little bit till the A/C lights go off, then the battery is ok the next morning. Is the ignition lock cylinder bad or the ignition switch? What need replacing and what does it cost?
What seems to make the problem better or worse? Jiggling the key to turn off all power
How long have you had this problem? A few weeks
When I turn my A/C on it only blows hot.
why does cd changer blink and not work
I changed my spark plugs and a day later I started to have the problem what can I do to fix it
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