Why does my clutch have so much dead pedal after changing the master cylinder?
What is your question?
I changed the clutch master cylinder with an after market part. I was able to bleed the line until they're was no more bubbles. However there is still way too much dead pedal.
I'm wondering if the part is defective, or if I'm missing a step.
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I have pumped the clutch pedal. It doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I have bled the system and there isn't any more air coming out. Is it possible that there is air trapped in the cylinder itself? Or maybe a defective after market part?
Ok, obviously there was a problem prior to this repair - IF this hasn’t helped the original concern then perhaps the clutch SLAVE CYLINDER is the culprit instead.
Good luck!
I checked the slave cylinder but there doesn't seem to be a problem.
Is it possible that the clutch return spring is bad? Would that cause the pedal to not return properly?
Did you bleed the system using the BLEEDER SCREW on the slave cylinder ?
Was the clutch fluid in the master cylinder kept full or at least sufficient at all times during the bleeding process and did not run out of fluid at all ?
The original problem was that the clutch master cylinder broke where it attaches to the clutch pedal, via the little white clip.
And yes, the car shifts just fine now. However, the pedal itself has a sticking spot about 3 inches into pushing it. It causes the pedal to be delayed when you release it. But the pedal does come all the way out on its own. It just has that sticking spot.
Besides that, it works fine, and nothing is leaking.
Depress clutch pedal by HAND to see if can feel any binding that may be in the pedal pivot - also check firewall for any sign of cracking that may be causing this binding.
Liberally spraying WD-40 onto clutch pedal pivot under dash may help.
Since clutch is actually working I don’t think there’s a problem within the components
Inside the bell housing - I think it is within the clutch PEDAL itself..
Check the firewall closely for any damage around the master cylinder mounting points .. Grasp master cylinder and try to move it making sure it is secure and firewall isn’t giving / flexing .. This ‘might’ be the cause of the original problem.
Lastly - I ‘suppose’ the master cylinder may have a roughened bore that’s causing the pedal to hang midway - can always disconnect the push rod and try the pedal.
Good luck!
I have pumped the clutch pedal. It doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I have bled the system and there isn't any more air coming out. Is it possible that there is air trapped in the cylinder itself? Or maybe a defective after market part?
Ok, obviously there was a problem prior to this repair - IF this hasn’t helped the original concern then perhaps the clutch SLAVE CYLINDER is the culprit instead. Good luck!
I checked the slave cylinder but there doesn't seem to be a problem. Is it possible that the clutch return spring is bad? Would that cause the pedal to not return properly?
Did you bleed the system using the BLEEDER SCREW on the slave cylinder ? Was the clutch fluid in the master cylinder kept full or at least sufficient at all times during the bleeding process and did not run out of fluid at all ?
Yes, I bled the system until they're were no more bubbles. And yes, I kept the fluid topped off, and continually added more as I bled the line.
1- What was the original problem? 2- Is the clutch releasing - with engine on + clutch pedal depress - will transmission go in gear now?
The original problem was that the clutch master cylinder broke where it attaches to the clutch pedal, via the little white clip. And yes, the car shifts just fine now. However, the pedal itself has a sticking spot about 3 inches into pushing it. It causes the pedal to be delayed when you release it. But the pedal does come all the way out on its own. It just has that sticking spot. Besides that, it works fine, and nothing is leaking.
Depress clutch pedal by HAND to see if can feel any binding that may be in the pedal pivot - also check firewall for any sign of cracking that may be causing this binding. Liberally spraying WD-40 onto clutch pedal pivot under dash may help. Since clutch is actually working I don’t think there’s a problem within the components Inside the bell housing - I think it is within the clutch PEDAL itself.. Check the firewall closely for any damage around the master cylinder mounting points .. Grasp master cylinder and try to move it making sure it is secure and firewall isn’t giving / flexing .. This ‘might’ be the cause of the original problem. Lastly - I ‘suppose’ the master cylinder may have a roughened bore that’s causing the pedal to hang midway - can always disconnect the push rod and try the pedal. Good luck!