Hum and vibration from drive line with wheels on jack stands
What is your question?
The noise started BEFORE I changed out the carrier bearing but the old one was certainly worn out. May be getting louder. Initially installed the CB cocked a few degrees (not sure if this ruined it or not but it spins freely with the rear wheels on jack stands). I noticed that the drive shaft has a bit of slack at both front and rear differentials.
I was careful and marked the shafts and u-joints when installing the CB. I have replaced one rear wheel bearing and one front wheel bearing.
Noise is coming from the rear end. When checking for movement on the wheel (hands at top and bottom or 12 and 6 o'clock) there is a little bit but not much.
No clunking that indicate bad u-joints (this drive shaft has that double version on the rear shaft that cannot be replaced) Looks like there are two u-joints that can be replaced.
Noise is present with tires off the ground so it is not tire / road noise.
What makes this problem better or worse?
Starts at low speed and continues to get louder until road noise drowns it out.
How long has your 2006 Toyota Tundra had this problem?
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Firstly - we can’t here this noise.
ALL universal joints must be aligned correctly with each other - in a straight line.
Check for DRY universal joint(s)..
Good luck!
When the splined yoke was removed so bearing could be removed - - was this splined yoke put back in the ‘exact’ same position as when it was removed?
IF it’s just ONE spline off - that will cause all kinds of problems!
Universal joint alignment (straight line) can be checked with mason cord.
Suspension lift kits are also hell on the driveshaft / driveline components.
Just saying.
Thanks for the reply. I'll check the alignment. All the universal joints were dry but I greased them with whatever was in my grease gun... figured something was better than nothing.
Bout all we can do here is make some suggestions - the real repair solution will have to come from *hands-on* diagnosis..
You’ll find it - just keep at it!
That's for sure. I was successful at making it worse. Now the only thing that I know to do is move it one spline at a time until the vibration gets better. Sheesh. That drive shaft is heavy.
Thanks!
Just sight down the driveshaft to check u-joint alignment - they MUST line up with each other in a straight line.
Bearing cap on one u-joint got to be in alignment with the other u-joint bearing cap.
Cap on one joint can not be canted to one side from the other joint - - if so THEN change yoke position.
It happens all the time - it’s just something you don’t think about when replacing the support bearing.
Glad you were able to correct that particular issue..
Thanks for reply.
Hey Pushrod!
The problem was the rear wheel bearing. I got it repaired yesterday. This is one that I had replaced a few months back and the machine shop didn't get everything pressed on within tolerance's. The ABS ring was not positioned properly.
At any rate, the bearing failed and is now replaced and the noise is gone.
Thanks!
When the splined yoke was removed so bearing could be removed - - was this splined yoke put back in the ‘exact’ same position as when it was removed? IF it’s just ONE spline off - that will cause all kinds of problems! Universal joint alignment (straight line) can be checked with mason cord. Suspension lift kits are also hell on the driveshaft / driveline components. Just saying.
Thanks for the reply. I'll check the alignment. All the universal joints were dry but I greased them with whatever was in my grease gun... figured something was better than nothing.
No lift kits installed. It's possible to be off a spline but I marked each side of the driveshaft.
Bout all we can do here is make some suggestions - the real repair solution will have to come from *hands-on* diagnosis.. You’ll find it - just keep at it!
That's for sure. I was successful at making it worse. Now the only thing that I know to do is move it one spline at a time until the vibration gets better. Sheesh. That drive shaft is heavy. Thanks!
Just sight down the driveshaft to check u-joint alignment - they MUST line up with each other in a straight line. Bearing cap on one u-joint got to be in alignment with the other u-joint bearing cap. Cap on one joint can not be canted to one side from the other joint - - if so THEN change yoke position.
Okay. I didn't even look for that alignment.
Thanks for the helpful information. I've got it back to what passes for normal these days. I did have the u-joint caps out of alignment. John
It happens all the time - it’s just something you don’t think about when replacing the support bearing. Glad you were able to correct that particular issue.. Thanks for reply.
Hey Pushrod! The problem was the rear wheel bearing. I got it repaired yesterday. This is one that I had replaced a few months back and the machine shop didn't get everything pressed on within tolerance's. The ABS ring was not positioned properly. At any rate, the bearing failed and is now replaced and the noise is gone. Thanks!
Glad to hear you got it fixed - and learned something about u-joint alignment in the process!