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What is your question?
Took vehicle to repair shop and had both lower control arms replaced, 2 tires put on with an alignment and also had both valve cover gaskets replaced. The valve cover gasket closest to the firewall had been leaking for several years. I always made sure the level was good. While test driving too make sure front end was ok, I noticed the check engine light was on. I thought that maybe my wife had gotten gas and didn't click the gas cap several times like she has done in the past. So I clicked the gas cap and disconnected the battery cable to reset the the computer. Did not work. Took to O'Reilly's and Autozone to get the codes pulled and both gave me the same codes. P0171 and P0174. I believe both mean system is running lean. Reading on the internet, I've read that if the valve cover and/or the plenum bolts are not torqued to the specs, it will allow an air leake which will then make the check engine light come on. Is that true? If so, where can I find that to print to show the repair shop?
1 Reply
Do you trust the shop? THAT always helps! Was the light on within a few minutes of picking the car up? Call the shop and ask that they re-check their work and that a sensor didn't get plugged in maybe? Give them a chance to make it right , IF it is related to their work , MOST reputable shops would prefer that. Let us know what happens.
I hit send before I finished what happened. A friend of mine works at the shop. I trust my friend. I took back on Friday(May 30, 2014) and left overnight. They rechecked on Friday and said they found a ground wire that was loose and thought that would fix it. I don't know what else they may have done. They said they test drove twice approx 40 miles each time and the light stayed off. I picked up Saturday afternoon and within 2 miles of leaving the repair shop the light came back on and according to my odometer, they did drive approx 80 miles while test driving. I also spoke with the mechanic and he seemed knowledgeable. I went back today to see when I could bring it back and will take back Thursday evening for them to look at Friday morning. Please help me with some info to take back to them. Thank you. I also took battery cables off after picking up on Saturday and reattached on Sunday evening. My wife took car to work yesterday and the light came back on after driving approx 50 miles. Please help. Again, thank you.
Thank you for finishing the story! 80 miles of test driving? Just from that , I'd say they are trying to get things right. It's possible the 'new' codes are not related to their repairs , judging by the amount of driving they did (I'm guessing possibly with a scanner hooked up at the time) , they are trying to make sure of what it is , so that if it is related , they do want to make it right. Like I said earlier 'trust ' is a key factor. Let them (& your friend) know , you'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt ....who knows???.... It might end up NOT being anything to do with their repairs , but they want to earn a good reputation (AND a good reference goes a long way), so I think they will try to work WITH you as best as they can. I know there are still plenty of shops out there that WORK VERY HARD on getting and keeping a good reputation.
Thank you for your help. Is it true that if the bolts holding the valve covers and/or plenum in place are not torqued to certain specs, air can get in and make the check engine light come on giving a lean reading code? As I wrote earlier, I found a few responses on other internet sites and one guy had to replace 3 times before he got it right and Two Toyota dealers in Memphis said it was possible. I'm trying to get more info as to why I am corresponding with you. Again, thank you so much.
Hard to argue with Toyota dealer! Either way , if that ends up being the cause , I would have to think it was not done on purpose. Hope they get it figured out for you and work out the financial end to both of your best interests.
Thank you. Hopefully I'll get it worked out.