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Ziptie12

Bunker Hill, WV

04/15/2014............new fun rule to the game.......since we waste a lot of time responding to stupid questions that are never responded to by the folks that posted them, you must respond to a wisecrack first , before a legit answer will appear............and don't expect a serious answer to a question like "my low tire pressure light is on , what could be the cause?"


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Question Answered: 

How many miles on it ? when it vibrates , try to maintain speed , while very gently applying brakes and tell us if that calms the vibration.


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Question Answered: 

Different shop diagnose it this next time?


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Question Answered: 

Speaking of old school....unplug the float switch from the master cylinder is another way to confirm the area of problem. If light goes off , there's a possibility the float is stuck , or defective. Check pushrods advice FIRST , his bulb burns a little brighter than mine, if ya know what I mean.............


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Question Answered: 

Probably worn center roller , to much slop causing binding. Turn 'main power door switch off and open the door about halfway ,then slide it back and forth about an inch each way if you hear clunking or looseness in the rear center of the door ,that's the roller that needs replaced. not uncommon. Also not typically a DIY job. Not to technically difficult , but really easy to screw up.


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Question Answered: 

Basically in any Honda bulletin or service info , that's the main code for internal contamination and failure of trans. IF your not experiencing any drivability issues yet , I would do a drain & fill (with ONLY honda ATF) and go till it quits. Changing solenoid pack as some service manuals might say to , will NOT fix it. It is caused by internal wear and contamination.


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Question Answered: 

replace the 'o'-ring on the inlet hose (the large hose going to pump) plastic piece with 1 10mm head bolt holding it on. that o-ring gets brittle with age and allows air to be sucked into the system. try that first , bet it'll fix your problem. USE only Honda fluid otherwise you can cause rack seal leaks.


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Question Answered: 

Have it tested , possible bearing going bad if it's still charging properly.


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Does it 'park' properly? IF so ,I would suspect the switch first , before the motor. HOWEVER...I would strongly advise TESTING the switch , before buying one as a guess.


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Did the car start and run , before those parts were replaced? IF so , I would begin by re-checking all the connectors you had to remove to do the work. Also CHECK ALL FUSES under the hood and under the dash!


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Question Answered: 

Replace radiator , flush trans and cooling system. (rec. only chrysler ATF from dealer for trans).


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