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Bunker Hill, WV
Every time I start the car , it stays running until I turn the key off. The tachometer will stay in the red area whenever I manually put it in 1st gear and hold the gas pedal to the floor. I don't understand what is wrong with this piece of junk!!! No smoke or knocking , only has 382,590 miles on it , Oh boo-hoo!! Can somebody PLEASE tell me what to do with this useless information , or should I just repeatedly repost and not bother checking for responses????
Also , sometimes when going over little hills , on country roads , usually over 75-80 MPH , it will fee like it is going air-born and thump sometimes. Motor will only red-line when I put it in 1st gear (auto trans) manually and even then , it will only go up to 6500 rpms I can hold it there for miles , and it will not blow up ? What could be the problem???? Also the transmission ring gear has about a half inch of free-play (pulled cover off to inspect 2 years/100,000 miles ago) makes loud knock if it up-shifts while coasting. No matter what I do I cannot get it to fall apart??? What do you suggest??? Pass. side axle has been popping for about 65,000 miles , boot is broken , no grease , what should I do I can't pull it apart unless it breaks! HELP!!!
what should I do? NEED HELP ASAP!!!
First time stranded , replaced inertia switch and that seemed to work for a few days , then started extended cranking no start , until I let it cool down 10 minutes (if that) and cycle key to 'run' position several times , until I hear fuel pump kick in. Then it starts right up. Haven't located a diagram yet , but would a relay either before or after the inertia switch cause these symptoms?
Seems like , from the you-tube videos I've found , it's more like an engine over-haul job when you do it......Pushrod , what would that run in your neck of the woods? Thanks for any input, just got it (for free) 220K, 1 year old jasper trans,engine nice and quiet and strong body very clean, 1 owner (Friends of ours).... sorry globalhelper , your about 3000 miles to far (I'm afraid the tow truck wouldn't make it!
Occasionally , when cold or hot , the oil, battery lights flicker very briefly and the chime for key in ignition will ding simultaniously with lights. Oil level good, pressure tested @ 17-20PSI @ idle. Honda online info doesn't go back this far anymore(dealership-sad) Anybody have wiring info on this to see if there is a common ground that could be faulty? It has up-graded (recall) ignition switch in it and I've checked that for burnt contacts -looks OK. ?help?
Haven't looked anything up yet but wondered if anyone has any tips? Should I just shoot myself? Should I bring some dynamite? Thanks. Wisecracks/ jokes about the car are OK too , since it isn't mine!
I HATE this van , but I can't get another car 'til this one blows up. I haven't done any service to it in over 11,000 miles no topping off fluids or anything. drive it like hell but the damn thing keeps going AAAARRRGH!!!!! HELP ME BLOW UP MY VAN! Only catch is I can't purposely drain the fluids , and running out of gas or crashing it doesn't count.
Check "main" relay under dash by fuse box. Easy test (in quiet environment)... (1) turn key on til dash warning lights illuminate (2) watch 'check engine light', should here a click when light goes off . when the car doesn't start would be when you don't here a click when the light goes off. DON'T crank while watching light. Main relay is for fuel pump and can be 'heat sensitive'.many a fine distributor have been replaced because of this $#$^%^#% relay.
Check your install. make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks or diconnected/plugged oem hoses.worst case re-install O.E.M., verify no problems with that install , then re- check requirements for swap ? pcm software changes etc.
That code (along with p1457) refer to entire sections of the evaporative system. Scanner , vacuum gauge ,service specs. recommended to diagnose so you don't spend more in un-needed parts.Most common part in my experience is the canister vent shut valve (CVS valve) which is on the end of the canister by the gas tank two phillips screws a two pin electrical connector and vacuum hose . Can be a nuisance to remove screws.
If it's done properly you won't damage anything. you will lose your radio memory (station pre-sets)and clock will have to be reset. MAIN item is to have your radios anti-theft code available.a five digit number you need to enter when you power up the radio after re-connecting the battery.can be on a small white sticker in/around edges of glove box , also supposed to be in "service history" book first page by vin info .
Check for major vacuum leak(s).MAF
Possible body seam improperly sealed.Does it only get wet when it rains? If so get a good (LED) flashlight to watch under dash (you might want to remove trim first for better view of upper corner)look from top down for dry water stains on backing of carpet/insulation .If nothing obvious , run a water hose on the outside of the windshield while watching inside AND listening for leak.Improvise and use common sense as to where best to direct water for the area you suspect the leak is from . also check for debris clogging drain tubes from windshield cowl(where the air enters for heat&a/c from outside).
Check for broken wire(s)in harness in trunk area also check for proper ground circuit
P0301 means it's detecting a misfire in cyl. #1.what brand and who and when (mileage and date) put plugs coil cap and wires and did any of those parts show damage?Do you still have OEM intake setup ?
GET ANOTHER MECHANIC before you waste another dime .
Front brake rotors are the most likely cause. Determine the cause before replacing parts. Uneven or over-torqueing the lug nuts could be the cause.Extended application of the brakes causing overheating could also cause warpage.Check steering linkage for any play while your there,loose/worn tie-rods may exagerate the vibration.