It's easy to get lost, as there is often a lot on the mind when diagnosing and trouble-shooting electrical issues. The basic theory of electrons and neutrons brings to mind clean, sound circuitry, including connections grounding and current draw. I recently diagnosed a 1992 Toyota Corolla. When I picked it up, the engine wouldn't turnover. I turned the motor over a little bit both directions, allowing me to skip the frozen motor. I pulled the starter out, and put jumper cables to it using both leads. The red one to positive on battery and to the large terminal on the magneto or "solenoid". The Black lead I put on the positive side of battery and the small spade connector on the magneto. I then held the starter on the ground terminal of the battery to ground the starter completing the circuit. Lo and behold, the magneto "solenoid" slowly came out and spun at a slow rate (with emphasis on "very slowly). I reinstalled the starter using jumper cables and then I connected another Toyota Corolla's battery and charge. Just one turn of the key and the engine started beautifully, purring like a kitten. While driving the newly purchased vehicle home I had stopped twice and shut it off. It restarted fine both times. After sitting for a few hours, I went to start it and it only clicked once.
A important factor to consider and is often overlooked is the battery cranking amps. What is 100 percent one minute might not be the next.
Here this fine Sunday afternoon, I'm going to diagnose the system seeking the particular part that is not maintaining 100 percent. I've found a tech sheet to help me understand the tolerances of each component. Remember, though, that volts and amps are two different factors too consider. An ampress meter is important in finding out if the battery is holding enough amps or if the battery is dead volts. The meter has a button that calls the battery for amps and usually has a scale indicator that shows whether or not the battery is dropping off.
Here is a great tech sheet that helps define the tolerances.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h7.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiGra-GhozOAhVCymMKHcTbAhMQFggrMAM&usg=AFQjCNGkD_bCSIq8Ny3Hg8zZ5RteWNBzZA&sig2=mgP_57t4qbrjd2HjElrjAQ
"IMPORTANT"
Be sure to read the directions on your test equipment to avoid injury or damage to parts and equipment.
I will return with video and discussions as I test components.
pushrod, how do I actually see your answer? I can see there is 1 answer, but I can't see a way to view it.
{IF engine will turn manually} .. Carefully run a jumper wire from small spade terminal on the starter solenoid and touch it to battery positive terminal.. â–ªï¸Key OFF, Transmission in NEUTRAL and park BRAKES ON!â–ªï¸.. 'IF' starter does NOT crank engine when jumpered .. Either the BATTERY is weak or the STARTER is defective .. That's ALL there is to it!!!! .. Should be able to *clutch start* with car rolling, if need to take it to repair shop .. Good luck!
OK I tried this (I think) - connected positive battery terminal to the connection on the starter that is covered by a rubber top... Hopefully this is what you mean by the terminal? The only other one I could see is the small one the wire plugs directly into. As an extra I actually tried a new starter motor in it, which also did not start. I tested the clutch safety switch, working fine. There is a low grade humming noise when I hold the key as if turning the engine on. I also tried jumping it from another car, also did not start. Starter relay or ignition switch? All the things above make me think I have ruled out starter (tried a new one), battery (tested and tried jumping), clutch safety switch (tested for current).
NO.. Not the BIG starter terminal that the battery cable hooks to ... The SMALL plug in (flat blade) TERMINAL on the starter solenoid !! .. That's the one to connect jumper wire to, then touch other end to the positive battery post! .. IF the engine is not locked up .. battery is fully charged and grounded .. Starter has GOT to crank engine or at least attempt to, if it does not, then starter is defective! .. Test is bulletproof.. There is no other possibility!
OK, I tried it and didn't work, so I got a new starter,... also didn't work. Returned the starter and tried a new battery. No difference. Looked at voltages - Starter is getting 12v when it should (cranking key) through small terminal. Maybe there is a grounding issue?
â–ªï¸IF THE ENGINE IS NOT LOCKED UP!!!â–ªï¸... Ground starter 'body' to battery negative with jumper cable then try to crank engine.. If starter works then, well it is a ground problem!
NO this did not work either. The car did start once today, while it was hooked up to another car with jump leads. From this I assumed it was the battery, but a new one failed to start the car, and it did not start again when connected to the other car. Seems like it must be a loose connection? I just don't understand how the starter can be reciving 12v but not turning over.
I'm out of ammo!
Join the club! If I get an answer will let you know. Thanks for the help. P.s the starter cannot be getting the 12v consistently if the ignition switch is bad can it?