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What is your question?
My 1997 Toyota Camry L.E. R.P.M go up when driving. Then go back to normal. Replacing oxygen sensor didn't solve the problem. Reader is now saying needs neutral safety switch. Check engine light on.
3 Replies
Hello, "Code Readers" don't "say" anything about a failed part. They only give you clues to troubleshoot towards finding what is going wrong. Try not to replace parts based off of guesswork -- test and verify and replace what you can confirm to be failed. It would be highly improbable that a "neutral safety switch" would cause the "RPMs to go up" while driving. Perform a proper diagnostic test with a quality diagnostic tool with the capability of analyzing a data stream with the ability to reference a shop manual, or have a trusted repair shop near you check it out. https://repairpal.com/repair-shops/toyota-repair-and-service-in-saint-petersburg-florida
Possible vacuum leak is suspected somewhere under the hood,vacuum hose(s) air intake duct/air filter housing. if you have a vacuum leak,you may be able to hear a (hissing sound) engine running,check all of the vacuum lines,possible one or more has came off/split/cracked/dry rotted. NOW,for the neutral safety switch code,you don't need one,it ain't bad! this is going to sound crazy,but do this and reply back. get a helper to assist you.start the car,turn the lights on,are all the lights working on the rear? tag lights working? trunk tail lights working? have helper put car in reverse,are the two clear back up lights working,put back in park? open the trunk,is the trunk light working? reply back with results....
The R.P.M needle is erratic all over the place car then drags into gear and settles back down to normal.
While at a stop light - driving 55 mph - cold engine - anytime ? Recommend **hands-on** testing by qualified personnel. Good luck with it!
don't really understand *The R.P.M needle is erratic all over the place car then drags into gear and settles back down to normal*? you have two problems maybe,maybe not.(1) when you first start it the rpm gauge should go just over 1000 rpm's or so and as it warms up a little,it should drop to around 650-750 rpm's after warming up. then when you start driving it the rpm's will go higher as you accelerate the gas pedal then drop down and repeats that through all the gears until the car shifts to overdrive and depending how fast you're going will determine where the rpm gauge will be,say if you are going 55 mph,then the rpm's should be around 2000 rpm's.(2) now,did you check the lights in the rear like I stated before?
I will check lights tonight when have friend with me thanks.everything is where you describe it in R.P.M till the needle goes erratic, can be just as you accelerate, or just driving along.
2 questions>ok.,(1) so when the needle goes crazy,does the engine idle go crazy also or the engine is not revving up and down when the needle goes crazy? (2) check your rear lights and trunk light and post findings.
Checked all lights working
ok,the check engine light is showing a code for the neutral safety switch? when you open the trunk,look on the drivers side inside the trunk beside the trunk hinge(disconnect the battery now).There are a couple wire looms there with wires in them taped together. find the one that goes up to the trunk lid and cut the loom back a little(carefully) and check the six wires in there to see if any are broken/stretched.I have fixed several of these(common problem on 97-01).the wires break from stress on them.factory didn't put enough slack before tapping them to other bundle.This will cause that code you have.what I do is add around 8 inches of wire,solder them,heat shrink them,put a new piece of wire loom around them,make a loop so when the trunk is opened it does not stress the wires anymore,and the CEL does not come back on. most of the time from what I've seen 2-4 wires will be broken and have no lights on the rear except brake lights,but it's best to fix all 6 of them while you are laying on your back in the trunk! reconnect the battery. also,you still didn't answer my question> so when the rpm needle goes crazy,does the engine idle go crazy also or the engine is not revving up and down when the needle goes crazy?
Engine idle also goes crazy for a brief moment, then acts like it slips back into gear. Have had Neutral safety switch replaced, also Oxygen Sensor. Both were showing up on reader. Still c.e.l light on. Would repairing wires you describe stop the revving up of r.p.m. This is intermittent by the way.
Forgot to also mention after a drive to work When I park r.p.m.stays at 2, does not go down to 1.
NO! that is a separate problem. have you checked very close for vacuum leaks, ENGINE AREA?
you made sure the needle is not dragging on the surface making physical contact,CORRECT? you can remove your cluster in less than 10 minutes unhook the 3 connectors on rear of cluster,remove the cluster,then remove the clear window on the front if needed to see if the needle is dragging. copy and paste the video link below,97-01 are the same.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbADVNxo-YY