Ok, so i have a V6 3.4 L engine and i have just replaced my fuel injectors, map sensor, vacuum lines, fuel tank and pump, both O2 sensors, and the air control valve. it will start up fine, it revs up to about 1200 then idles at 900~, and will idle for a few minutes(5-10 roughly, haven't counted), and i can press the gas down fine and it'll rev up, but as soon as i put it in gear (its a manual 5 speed) it dies, as if i turned it off(DOES NOT make any coughing noise like there's no fuel)... then after that when i turn it on it will turn on and idle for maybe 2 seconds, then dies. Please help!
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Do you know the procedure for reading the flash codes (trouble codes)? .. Has the battery been disconnected and in turn the idle strategy memory was lost? .. Are you familiar with MAF sensor 'tap' test? .. Has the big rubber air tube running from the air cleaner to the intake been removed? .... Has the throttle body been de-coked (cleaned)? There are more possibilities!
I tried reading the codes but when I ground the A and B point for the OBD it turns the engine cooling fan on and the service Engine light just stays on and does nothing... the battery has been disconnected, how do I check if the idle strategy memory has been lost or how do I get it back? Air filter and all are on... yes I cleaned the throttle when I took the intake manifold and intectors out...
.................. A .. B
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This is just to make sure you are jumping the right terminals in the obd 1 connector... For idle relearn, start engine and force it to run for approx 10 minutes... IF the engine refuses to idle or run, try unhooking MAF sensor (if equipped) .. Let me know the results.
1/3/17
I do disconnect the battery when im working on it so i don't shock myself, when im doing electrical stuff. It doesn't look like i have a MAF, where the MAF could go there the throttle position sensor and the air flow control valve are there. I started it back up today, it ran smooth for about 3 minutes and wanted to quit, i press the gas down to try to keep it going up then it back fired and died, but i could turn it right back on and it'll idle for a another 1-2minutes maybe. i can hear the pump running, so i don't think its that... I did notice today that the coolant temp wasn't moving at all, i replaced the one on top of the engine with the 2 wired connector, waiting on the other sensor to come in the mail, thought id go ahead and change those out. I noticed that when it would die it would backfire, not a lot but enough to hear it.
Update: 1/4/17
Ok, well. I starting troubleshooting it by unplugging sensors one at a time since i knew i had to be a sensor and starting it up to see how long it will run for, i got to the MAP (manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) and it ran for ten minutes and ran like a whole new car. So turns out my new MAP sensor doesn't even work... so i put in the old one which i knew worked( I got a new one cause i needed the pigtail electrical connector, and the a new sensor came with it), i ran out of time today to drive down the street to make sure its running properly. I'll give an update tomorrow. You guys really have helped! thanks!
I tried reading the codes but when I ground the A and B point for the OBD it turns the engine cooling fan on and the service Engine light just stays on and does nothing... the battery has been disconnected, how do I check if the idle strategy memory has been lost or how do I get it back? Air filter and all are on... yes I cleaned the throttle when I took the intake manifold and intectors out...
.................. A .. B â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸ â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸â–ªï¸ This is just to make sure you are jumping the right terminals in the obd 1 connector... For idle relearn, start engine and force it to run for approx 10 minutes... IF the engine refuses to idle or run, try unhooking MAF sensor (if equipped) .. Let me know the results.
1/3/17 I do disconnect the battery when im working on it so i don't shock myself, when im doing electrical stuff. It doesn't look like i have a MAF, where the MAF could go there the throttle position sensor and the air flow control valve are there. I started it back up today, it ran smooth for about 3 minutes and wanted to quit, i press the gas down to try to keep it going up then it back fired and died, but i could turn it right back on and it'll idle for a another 1-2minutes maybe. i can hear the pump running, so i don't think its that... I did notice today that the coolant temp wasn't moving at all, i replaced the one on top of the engine with the 2 wired connector, waiting on the other sensor to come in the mail, thought id go ahead and change those out. I noticed that when it would die it would backfire, not a lot but enough to hear it. Update: 1/4/17 Ok, well. I starting troubleshooting it by unplugging sensors one at a time since i knew i had to be a sensor and starting it up to see how long it will run for, i got to the MAP (manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) and it ran for ten minutes and ran like a whole new car. So turns out my new MAP sensor doesn't even work... so i put in the old one which i knew worked( I got a new one cause i needed the pigtail electrical connector, and the a new sensor came with it), i ran out of time today to drive down the street to make sure its running properly. I'll give an update tomorrow. You guys really have helped! thanks!