What is your question?
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What is your question?
The radiator was plugged ninety percent. What do I check next. I opened the bleed screws, but it still overheats within a few minutes. Also bought a new sensor. Radiator does not seem to be super hot, even can open the cap without any burst of steam even when the gauge is pegged. However it runs smoother at the middle, and seems to miss when overheating. Again no white smoke and no water in the oil.
3 Replies
Is the coolant circulating? If you can't see it flowing, then the problem is the water pump.
If this started only after the repairs it's an airlock. I know you said you opened the bleeds, but there's air trapped not letting the pump fill with coolant.
If this started only after the repairs it's an airlock. I know you said you opened the bleeds, but there's air trapped not letting the pump fill with coolant.
Thanks. It is flowing. I checked the temp with my obdII and it is reading 195 to 201. I did not replace the two wire sensor, but the 1 wire sensor is new. The gauge still is pegged on Hot. Is it just a bad gauge?
Thanks. It is flowing. I checked the temp with my obdII and it is reading 195 to 201. I did not replace the two wire sensor, but the 1 wire sensor is new. The gauge still is pegged on Hot. Is it just a bad gauge?
Sensors die much more often than gauges do. Is the sensor you replaced for the gauge? If not, test it or just replace it. Is the gauge pegged on a cold motor as soon as you turn the key on or goes up as the engine warms?
The gauge goes up as the engine warms up. Within three minutes it is pegged. We replaced the one wire sensor. should I replace the two wire sensor as well? Or could the sensor that we replaced be a bad one?
I don't know which sensor is for the gauge. Was the gauge already doing this before the radiator and sensor replacement? If it started after the sensor you probably got a bad sensor or the wrong one, if it was already doing it then it's likely the other sensor is for the gauge and it's gone bad.