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OK so my car ran great didn't have a problem until the other day my battery light came on so I got a new alternator and charged my battery....it ran for a hour and I lost my radio than speedometer than all the digitals than it bogged.out and died... Haven't been able to fix yet... I used a multi-meter and checked the battery at 12.5 v but the alternator is at 2.8-3.2 volt range well I know the fuse it good b/c I'm getting some volts and all my other fuses are good all my wires are tight and all the connections are good.... I took the small red and green wires off (harness wires) and checked them the green is at 0volts and the red read the same as the battery... Can anyone help fell free to text me with suggestions 25254554043 Ryan Thank you in advance
2 Replies
check voltage at battery lead on back of alternator, could have a bad charge (output wire).
Reads 3.8 on back of alternator but everywhere I get it tested it test positive..
Fusible link 175amp it was bad I changed it but alternator still not charging... Also side note.. My battery light doesn't come on when key is on and engine is off I've read that jeeps the circuit open anyway to verify that orbhelp with checking ifit is blown or just not coming on
Replace the alternator with a NAPA Power Supreme unit. If the battery light does not come on with key on eng. off, it aint going to charge! Bad bulb, i don't think so!!
OK thank you I have a duralast gold but its the 3rd one thank u for the help I'll have one tomorrow and will replay again
I had the exact same crap on another make but the same results! The P.S. from NAPA is a reman but it will have the latest and greatest upgrades & updates. I had rather have this unit than a NEW one! It is going to cost a little more but swaping parts more than once SUCKS! Especially on the one i had to do over, sanding on my head!!! I think it was a Mit. Montero V/6. Trying to save the customer some money, cost me more in the long run, should have installed a premium part to start with.
About to get the altanoter now just had 1 more ? Should I be getting the 110amp or the 130 amp have the 2.0 l 16 v??? I've been getting the 110 and there not working.... Just got another one 110 amp doesnt work again only showing 4.2 volts from the alternator prong... Guy said it could be my wiring my wires run from alternator to 175 amp fuseible link to starter... From there i cant see the wiring so im guessing back to the battery can anyone tell me if this is right??
the problem may be the turn on signal, there should be a 2or 3 prong connector, this would be the signal and or gauge feed, test them, one should read 12v with key in on position, if no signal alternator will not turn on..as before make sure all fuses are good, test with key on..
OK got the 130 amp alternator now all wires are new the maxi fuse and fusible link and the 10 amp fuse (or 7.5 I forget now) are good still having the same problem the connector red and green wire the red shows 12 constant the green shows voltage also now... My battery light in dash doesn't come on I spliced the green wire and Hooke it to the neg on battery and the dash battery light came back on but stayed on I can't figure this damn thing out and need help I've been working on cars for 8 years and ase certified and this car stumps me
make sure the mounts where the alternator set on are clean of corrosion and also check contacts in the small connector, and put the wire back to the alternator, you may also want to buy a new pig tail connector for the smaller wires and splice it in..the light will not go out if directly grounded all the time,well now we know the light works,so that tells me it is not grounding propperly in the alternator, hence bad connector or connection from connector to regulator, or the alternator ic not getting propper grounding to the engine block..
Or there is a continuous open circuit in the regulator, we can guess at this from now on and be wrong every time since we can't actually apply anything! Read back through ALL of the suggestions and you have got to find one that works. The ball is now in your hands ryan99cougar!
The only thing I can think of is that the pig tail connector I have is a 2 wire but everywhere else (auto zone and advance) have the 3 wire could this be a problem?? Maybe the middle one is a ground to something
You know man, if the alternator has 3 terminals, then don't you think the connector should too?? Damn! Here is the NAPA part # EC261. GOOD LUCK!
Well I have 2 of these cars and you don't need the middle one b/c my other car runs fine without it b/c its grounded properly so what I did since my broken car wasn't charging right was took the cap off from the middle of the connector and ran a wire hooking it to the neg of the battery and now its working finally... So if your cougar battery light doesn't come on before you start your car than its a bad ground in the green wire in the back of the connecter just run a wire in the middle prong to the neg on battery and its solved A BIG THANK YOU to everyone that helped all the info was very helpful and very appreciated... Now time to sell this car before something else goes bad lol