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What is your question?
Hi everyone, I've been on and off this forum asking about my Mazda Protege. I have the codes p0421 and p0304 on right now. I have replaced the ignition coil for the p0304 code about three times over the last 6 months (it was done last about a month ago). First, if my car is flagging a p0304, is it definitely the coil pack that needs to be replaced? And is there something common that would cause a coil to need replacing every month or two that I need to fix? I have no issues with my car while it is cold, I can drive it fine for about ten-fifteen minutes before it exhibits problems. When it does warm up the problem begins. Basically my car hesitates constantly while I'm driving. By hesitate I mean that if I steadily put pressure on the gas pedal, the rpms will rise to say 2000, and then quickly cut to 1000, causing my car to jerk...and it does this repeatedly when warmed up. If I'm on the highway it's a quick, but noticeable, jerk or two now and then, and then I pretty much floor it through it until I get home. If I'm in the city the problem is much much worse. At stop lights my car practically stalls out (the rpms are typically around 5-600 and they bog right down to 0, to the point the battery light flashes and I need to rev it in neutral to keep it going). Usually when it really begins to hesitate (at a light I can watch the rpms drop and increase without any change in gas), I start to smell exhaust fumes. I should also mention, it doesn't specifically have issues with driving up hill or anything of that manner, it seems to be specific to the car warming up. I just replaced the EGR Valve today, and when we took the old one out, it appeared to be filled with gasoline. Also, over the last several months I've had issues filling up my gas tank. Any time I try to fill it, the hose clicks every 50 cents or so, making it incredibly annoying to put more than 10 bucks in at a time. Today my gas tank was near empty and I could only manage to get 6 dollars into it before the gas actually bubbled back out at me. I know I should end up replacing the cat, but based on what I've been told from mechanics it is not likely the cat that is causing the drivability issues I am having. Before I fix the cat, I'd like to make sure those issues are addressed so I don't end up having to replace it again. I apologize for the length of this, I just wanted to be as specific as possible since I know little about the mechanics of cars. If anyone could help me, or has had similar issues, please let me know. I am a student/teacher and really can't afford to miss any days, so I've been making the bad decision of driving it regardless of the issues. Thanks ahead for your time and help!
1 Reply
Have you had this issue diagnosed, I don't mean scanned with a code reader. I can see 2 possibilities right away with the information given. By looking at your previous post, it looks as if you're trying to take the information and not understand what to do next. The EVAP system needs to be tested and/or checked, and your cat needs to be addressed as long as the code is there and repeats itself. This is obviously over your head, and the mechanics you have been visiting with. Find a shop that has the equipment and experience to fix your problems.
Hello, thanks for the reply. At the initial onset of the problem I did bring it to AAA to have it diagnosed. They replaced a coil pack after checking everything over. I replaced the EGR Valve because I did have a p0400 code previously and read it's a common issue for Mazdas (plus I thought it made sense with the temperature issue). I was just asking for advice as I thought maybe someone out there has had a similar issue and could tell me what fixed the problem for them. I do recognize it's over my head, and have an appointment with a new mechanic this week, but everyone has to start somewhere.
Well I can understand your concern, The thing that bothers me is the fact gas was in the EGR and you having a vent issue when filling the tank. Now the EGR will open to re-burn exhaust gasses and excessive fumes from the EVAP system. The canister must be full and your EVAP system is clogged to a point it can't vent the air from the fuel tank as you fill it, so that needs to be addressed. Another thought is the ground connections from the battery to the engine, usually at the head, and the body grounds as well. If they look good, take them apart anyway, and clean the mounting surface and the connector ends anyway, just to be sure. Make sure no connections are loose or dirty. Hope this helps some. Let me know.
Great, thanks for the suggestions. I'll take a look at the connections, and hopefully the mechanic can figure out the root of the issue(s) for me. I'll be sure to post what happens this weekend.
That would be great. Good Day