sportage just died, sprayed starting fuield but no luck. checked all fueses under hood and inside all good. pulled fuel line off at filter and when cracking fuel shoots out. checked coils with meter and screw driver against block got spark.pull fuel pump and test with battery charger it kicked on. plug back in and laid in back seat turn key on but didn't come on tell I started to crank. checked timing belt and it spinning around. think its good cause it does not hasitat or spin fast.check injector at power hook up and good tested injector with ohems good. put crank senorand cam senor still wont start. so it got spark and fuel (even tried starting fueild) timing ok. don't know what else to try. used a tester and passed no errors. at wits end please help.
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Until you can post some numbers along with your info, can't help!.. Compression reading in psi... Fuel pressure reading in psi... Spark KV reading when tested with spark tester.... Otherwise we would just be guessing at it too!!!
I don't have the fuel pressure tester 150 dollar to rent, no scrader valve to use the cheap one. or spark tester or noid light. but if its getting all of fire and fuel those should start. only thing that could control these is crank sensor, cam sensor which is replaced.even starting fuild should get it if fire is present. if pcm or eic I think those are the right letters were bad there wouldn't be fire or fuel pump wouldn't kick on.. did coil test and were right reading. and I think it was 6 on power to injectors and 5 on ohems on injectors itself. on fix income.
a friend tested it for me today,(compression) he got 83,84,79, and 30 on #4. he got good fire and pull plugs and pour a little gas in cylinders and got to pop on # 1. he said maybe timing because it popped but I think if he had to much fuel it might pop like that. he has a bigger code reader and it had 78 errors 2 were fuel pump. I don't have transportation to my vechile but if I learn more ill will post.
I suspected such.... Better concentrate on the timing belt... Seems it has slipped and engine is out of time... I really do hope I'm wrong about this!!!! It's an interference engine.... Good luck with it!!
I replaced the timing belt about 20,000 miles ago when it broke. it doesn't spin faster then normal or spin and then drag it seem to spin like always making me think its not the belt.i m gone try to get noid light tester and fuel tester some how and check those if there good ill pull timing cover and check marks.will post finding.
my friend called back he said it has 150 psi in all 4 cylinders so compression is good. said it has great spark. and when he pour fuel in cylinder it pop and tried to start but didn't. he said with the things he tried he didn't think it the timing. he said good compression , and the things he tried with the fuel ( starting fuild) and gas in cyl.he doesn't think it fuel related.he thinks it maybe a sensor but I replaced the crank and cam sensor. if it computer bad it wouldn't turn on the fuel pump. he said he lost. is there some kind of shut off to where it wont start. I know there suppose to be a roll over shut off and security also but nither of those.
That's more like it on the compression at least... IF you have proper spark .. Proper fuel .. Proper 'on time' compression .. The only thing I can think of is plugged exhaust..OR ..the tone ring for the crank sensor is failing... That's possible!.. I'm out of ammo, good luck!!
went back and rechecked everything I could compression 160, 150, 140, 145 checked injector power at vdc 20 on meter got 7.9 7.6 7.6 couldn't read on of them. injector ohms at 200 on meter 1.3 on all.check coil primary check .6 secondary 18.2k. checked timing marks pulled cover to where I could see cam sprocket marks and both lined up pull #1 plug to see if tdc and stuck screw driver in and bumped engine and it poped up a lil so I wanted to make sure the bottom mark was right so I pull everthing off and got down to crank pully took big bolt out and felt 5 or 6 smaller bolts and was getting ready to take those out and buddy said don't need to should slide off with those on.so I had a hammer an 2x4 and ended up breaking off crank shaft. so its trash now thanks for your help. I don't have money to get another vechile as im on disability from stroke and have no extra money. I can get maybe 300 scrap and maybe 8 or 10 months I can save for another clunker. thanks again for you info and help very much.
I don't have the fuel pressure tester 150 dollar to rent, no scrader valve to use the cheap one. or spark tester or noid light. but if its getting all of fire and fuel those should start. only thing that could control these is crank sensor, cam sensor which is replaced.even starting fuild should get it if fire is present. if pcm or eic I think those are the right letters were bad there wouldn't be fire or fuel pump wouldn't kick on.. did coil test and were right reading. and I think it was 6 on power to injectors and 5 on ohems on injectors itself. on fix income.
Compression test critical.!!!!!
a friend tested it for me today,(compression) he got 83,84,79, and 30 on #4. he got good fire and pull plugs and pour a little gas in cylinders and got to pop on # 1. he said maybe timing because it popped but I think if he had to much fuel it might pop like that. he has a bigger code reader and it had 78 errors 2 were fuel pump. I don't have transportation to my vechile but if I learn more ill will post.
I suspected such.... Better concentrate on the timing belt... Seems it has slipped and engine is out of time... I really do hope I'm wrong about this!!!! It's an interference engine.... Good luck with it!!
I replaced the timing belt about 20,000 miles ago when it broke. it doesn't spin faster then normal or spin and then drag it seem to spin like always making me think its not the belt.i m gone try to get noid light tester and fuel tester some how and check those if there good ill pull timing cover and check marks.will post finding. my friend called back he said it has 150 psi in all 4 cylinders so compression is good. said it has great spark. and when he pour fuel in cylinder it pop and tried to start but didn't. he said with the things he tried he didn't think it the timing. he said good compression , and the things he tried with the fuel ( starting fuild) and gas in cyl.he doesn't think it fuel related.he thinks it maybe a sensor but I replaced the crank and cam sensor. if it computer bad it wouldn't turn on the fuel pump. he said he lost. is there some kind of shut off to where it wont start. I know there suppose to be a roll over shut off and security also but nither of those.
That's more like it on the compression at least... IF you have proper spark .. Proper fuel .. Proper 'on time' compression .. The only thing I can think of is plugged exhaust..OR ..the tone ring for the crank sensor is failing... That's possible!.. I'm out of ammo, good luck!!
went back and rechecked everything I could compression 160, 150, 140, 145 checked injector power at vdc 20 on meter got 7.9 7.6 7.6 couldn't read on of them. injector ohms at 200 on meter 1.3 on all.check coil primary check .6 secondary 18.2k. checked timing marks pulled cover to where I could see cam sprocket marks and both lined up pull #1 plug to see if tdc and stuck screw driver in and bumped engine and it poped up a lil so I wanted to make sure the bottom mark was right so I pull everthing off and got down to crank pully took big bolt out and felt 5 or 6 smaller bolts and was getting ready to take those out and buddy said don't need to should slide off with those on.so I had a hammer an 2x4 and ended up breaking off crank shaft. so its trash now thanks for your help. I don't have money to get another vechile as im on disability from stroke and have no extra money. I can get maybe 300 scrap and maybe 8 or 10 months I can save for another clunker. thanks again for you info and help very much.