why grinds with shift into 1st & 2nd when moving after put new slave cylinder?

the slave cylinder was leaking and then completely stopped working, before that no problems w/shifting unless the fluid was low and when put in fluid again no problems, we have tried bleeding the air out of the system by pushing in the clutch and holding it in, opening the bleed valve and then closing it, then pumping the clutch and then again pushing it in and holding it and opening and closing the bleed valve, doing this several times, but it still won't shift right (note I read somewhere that we should be using a tube into a jar of brake fluid, but we were very careful not to release the clutch until the bleed valve was closed, I also read that what I described is good to get the air out of the line from the master cylinder but we also need to manually push the clutch rod fork (don't know what that is) in as far as we can with the the bleed valve open to clear the air out of the slave cylinder inside the tranny, haven't tried that yet) what else should we do or is there a problem with the synchronizer?

Go back to your original statement , you say the grinding didn' happen? mech. said metal shavings in pan? have you brought to another shop for a second diagnosis?

before the slave cylinder was replaced, we had no problems with grinding when shifting down into first and second gear or up from 1st into 2nd when accelerating from a stop. I took it to a mechanic to have him find out why it wouldn't shift properly and he said he took off the transmission fluid pan and it showed metal shavings and would have to have the transmission rebuilt or replaced. One other thing my son told me is that when decellerating. he is able to shift into 2nd if he waits a while before shifting and if he gently pushes the shifter into 2nd gear, but has to wait or it grinds like crazy, but unable to downshift into 1st until the car is completely stopped. Another thing is when the mechanic was checking it out, he said that the clutch was taking a long time to stop rotating after pushing in the clutch, and I could actually hear a sound that would take about 45 seconds to stop and he said that was the sound of the clutch still rotating. I had to pay that guy $65 for checking it out, so I haven't taken it to another mechanic. I am also having a problem finding someone who works on manuel transmissions, everyone only works on automatic

It's a shame I don't live in texas. Manual transmissions are so much easier than automatics.Also , I was thinking it would be easier to shell out another $65.00 for a second opinion , from a shop you can get some good references about. there are plenty of general repair shops not just specialty trans shops , that can deal with manual transmissions.

Ok, do you think I need to try to push in the clutch pushrod/fork manualy while opening the bleed valve? or any other suggestions?

I decided to look up the clutch slave cyl. type , and saw that I can't trust my memory . You do not have a 'clutch fork' , your slave cyl. is mounted directly over the input shaft.(I should have checked first ,so I wouldn't look so dumb). Did you change the slave cyl. yourself? It sounds like you did . If so , did you mess with the pressure plate , also did the new slave cyl. come with the release bearing or was the old one re-installed? If so were there any problems with that? Back to your question about the bleeding , If you're sure yor not getting air back in the system the way you're doing it then I wouldn't worry about the hose and bottle , that's , I think generally based on the assumption that you are doing the bleeding on your own , without a helper. How many miles on the clutch and which engine 4 or 6 cyl.?