What is your question?
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What is your question?
Hello, my car is constantly getting P1320 code (2000 Infiniti I30) replaced one bad coil (aftermarket from Autozone Hitachi oem), replaced all spark plugs NGK DP oem, checked the wiring, connectors' 12 volt on ignition etc. Unless any particular aftermarket brand (Denso,Delphi) works better on coil? Someone suggested that even if you replaced a bad coil with an aftermarket coil, check engine light does not go away as it only likes dealer's coil ($300). If I clear the code w/phone while driving, it stays off but moment I restart my car the light comes back on with P1320. Someone suggested replacing an ignition-condenser but this car does not have one according to the Infiniti Dealership. Can someone re-confirm that this year and model does not have an ignition-condenser? Someone suggested Cam or crank shaft but they have different code if they go bad? I wouldn't be getting P1320 for Cam or crank sensor, right? Car seems to be running fine and starts right away. Please advise/suggestion
What makes this problem better or worse?
Nothing.....just check engine light with P1320
How long has your 2000 INFINITI I30 had this problem?
2 months
2 Replies
Hello, first it is important to understand what the code means. It means that the signal for the ignition from the primary circuit (related to the ignition coil) is not being sent to the engine's control module (ECM) during the time the engine cranks or is running. This is where diagnostic testing is essential. A diagnostic tool can monitor the performance of this signal and look at a data stream to determine if the problem is continual or intermittent, and other important information. The test procedure checks various components and circuitry. Possible issues that cause the code include: - Wiring harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit could be open or shorted.) - Power transistor unit built into ignition coil - Condenser - Crankshaft position sensor - Crankshaft position sensor electrical circuit There is a service bulletin (01-052) that addresses concern with coil(s) and wiring. The bottom line: testing is needed. Experience and skill of someone who knows where to look and what to repair will often save you money.
You replaced one proven ‘bad’ coil - - with an aftermarket coil and the same problem exists. Well for the life of me I cannot figure out why! Good luck, Mike.
Hello Mr. DaveJM, I have tested all 6 coils for primary with a multimeter. I have tested all connectors with ignition switch on if they are getting 12 v. Your answer is very generic and broad. Not sure if you read my question. If you read my question, it clearly asks that wouldn't i be getting codes for cam or crankshaft sensor codes if they had any issues? Please advise what should I do next? Thanks anyway.
Sorry you feel that my answer is "generic and broad". What diagnostic tool are you using to monitor the data? If the answer is that you are not using a diagnostic tool, you are wasting your time and flying blind. This forum is can only advise steps to take, it cannot perform testing for you. Had you read the answer I wrote, you'd see important information, such as reading a technical service bulletin specifically related to this code, as well as how important a diagnostic tool is in monitoring data. This, by the way, came directly out of the repair manual for the vehicle. The problem is: No one here can legally reprint a repair manual, nor train you how to read or use it, nor provide you the tools needed to do the work. And no -- you would not necessarily be getting codes for crank sensor circuitry or the sensor itself for this concern. And lastly, yes, for ignition coils, I would go with original equipment no matter what the price. Best of luck.
Appreciate your concern and time. Thank you.