Please describe "go out". I will do my best to guide you but PLEASE do not drive the car until you've fixed it. Driving with iffy brakes could cost you or someone else their life and the hassle of catching a ride is nothing compared to your losses should you have a wreak and injure yourself or someone else, even if you think you have a handle on it.
ABS systems are designed with fail safe modes that tell the BCM to return the braking system to non-ABS control, so it should pop the ABS light (make sure it's not the ABS = Air Bag System light your looking at) on and you would only have normal braking meaning you can lock the brakes up in a panic stop. The function of the ABS system reads each wheel speed it's function with info from the the Suspension system allowing the car to keep any tire from coming to a complete stop when rolling, allowing more traction on a rapid stop and any tire from sliding on slick, wet, gravel or sand when the driver applies the brakes. Should you being driving along and apply the brakes for a rapid stop you should feel the pedal pulsating back at you as it controls the pressure to each brake.
So going out completely is a scary term. If you mean wearing out, there are possibility's of ABS problems or mechanical problems. Please detail from start to finish what happens when they go out. Tim, Mingo Auto ASE Master
It feels like my brakes are dragging the whole time & after driving like a mile or two the abs, vdc off, & slit comes on & I basically have to pull over & turn my car off then restart it. I can smell a burning smell & my car starts to overheat. I've changed my brakes pads, rotors & calipers 14 times which I've repeatly taken it in to a shop which I've also supposedly paid for new brake lines, akle, hub, wheelbarring but I think there lying bc there not new & my car will shake when u go 40 or more. I know I've put a new computer module in & that didn't work. I've also had flushes done & had my brake adjusted but it still saying that stuff. There's a code that the computer put out C41142-pressure sensor but before I throw more money out there I need to know for a fact that's what the issue is bc I've already spent thousands for the problem to still be there. I've also bought a wheel speed sensor but the wrong one came & I ordered it off eBay & having hell returning it. It's like the rear brake are working most of the time & the passenger side back is the 1st to go on rotors & brake pads within 3 weeks then my caliber locks up
Hello, It would seem to be a hyd. pressure problem for sure, That doesn't mean it's ABS related or not. You can separate the braking systems and get a better idea of the cause, meaning wether it's hyd. pressure building from a mechanical problem or the ABS system malfunctioning. First I'd like to say if you've been taking you car to the same shop or to several chain stores to have these repairs done, stop!! If it's the same shop, even if it's a independent with a good reputation, your being ripped off. A real auto repair shop might replace your pads and a few parts once or twice before telling you there another problem that needs fixed and not just keep throwing parts at it, then if it's over their head's they will refer you to someone they know that is a true brake specialist (not some chain store that hang's pads all day). If your shop hoping from chain store to chain store and even independent repair shops, they don't know the real history and will always start by replacing the worn parts first then test drive the car. If it doesn't act up then they will believe it's fixed. Pick a impendent shop with a good reputation, call the BBB or AAA if none of your friends have a trusted repair tech. and stick with them thru to the end of the repair process and your sure the cars fixed. Now back to what you can do to help the tech. understand just what's going on. I'll assume it's a base G35 not and X for starters and that the rotors and pads have been changed at least once. On your very first brake repair what was replaced and did this problem start before or after that first repair, it may not have been as bad but was it there. This vehicle has 2 braking systems, Akebono single piston calipers and a sport version made by Bremco with duel piston calipers, normally Automatic transmission cars have the signal's but depending on the build date it could have either with a std car and possibly the Auto to. If any of these systems parts where replaced and interchanged by mistake that could be your problem. You'll have to do a little digging with the parts numbers of the parts that were replaced to get anywhere with that. Go for a ride with your tool box in the cars and try these things. First find a safe place where you can do an emer. stop from 40 MPH, That meaning jam the brakes to the floor and hold them to the floor till the car stops. Can you feel the ABS kicking back at your foot as it takes control of the caliper pressures. If so great it's not going to be your ABS. Next drive your car until you can feel the brakes dragging you with out touching the pedal. Once your sure find a safe place where you can park and turn the steering wheel so you can get to the caliper bleeder screw on the front calipers, crack open the bleeder normally a half turn, after a few seconds or if you see brake fluid shoot out, try pulling the car in gear with only light pressure on the brake pedal to get it into gear. Does the brake still drag if not try the other side, right then left side. If one causes the dragging to stop until you hit the brakes again, make sure and try the other, then you will have found a bad caliper sticking from a brake hose being bad if it releases on both sides. Loosen you master cylinder from the firewall about a half and inch leaving plenty of threats for the nuts to hold the master on and begin driving the car. If it never drag's the brakes again, it's either the adjustment rod at the top of the brake pedal going into the master cylinder out of adjustment or a bad master cylinder. If this all fails try getting the brakes to drag again and do the same on the rear calipers. Good hunting, and I'd bet a .50 piece it's your master cylinder and when you find the problem, if you've been paying for all the previous work to be done, ask for your money back. Tim Mingo Automotive 1430 N Mingo Rd Tulsa, Ok 74116 President, Tim L. Johnson mingoautomotive@aol.com In a message dated 08/06/2016 12:55:44 A.M. Central Daylight Time, team@repairpal.com writes: Hi Mingo Automotive, A response has been posted to: "Does an Abs pump cause brakes, calibers & rotors to go out every 2-3 weeks." truedreamer2 has replied to your question with: "It feels like my brakes are dragging the whole time & after driving like a mile or two the abs, vdc off, & slit comes on & I basically have to pull over & turn my car off then restart it. I can smell a burning smell & my car starts to overheat. I've changed my brakes pads, rotors & calipers 14 times which I've repeatly taken it in to a shop which I've also supposedly paid for new brake lines, akle, hub, wheelbarring but I think there lying bc there not new & my car will shake when u go 40 or more. I know I've put a new computer module in & that didn't work. I've also had flushes done & had my brake adjusted but it still saying that stuff. There's a code that the computer put out C41142-pressure sensor but before I throw more money out there I need to know for a fact that's what the issue is bc I've already spent thousands for the problem to still be there. I've also bought a wheel speed sensor but the wrong one came & I ordered it off eBay & having hell returning it. It's like the rear brake are working most of the time & the passenger side back is the 1st to go on rotors & brake pads within 3 weeks then my caliber locks up" View or Reply to this thread. Thanks for using RepairPal! 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