Mingo Automotive

134 points
Started out working for my Grandfather in his Apco Service Station about 10 years old. After he retired I took over his business at 18 and built my first 3 bay shop which quickly grew to 10 bays and a part's store. Moved location's in 1996 after 20 years in business to the South West corner of Pine and Mingo Rd. I now have 2 location's to serve my long time customers. The Mingo Rd shop next to Batman's at Mingo & Pine and our newest location in Owasso on 116Th St East (HWY 20) and 16351 Th North. We are alway's ready to serve you. WE'RE YOUR ONE STOP SHOP!
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Question Answered: ReducedPower light comes on at random. Slows car from highway speed to 40-45 MPH
August 20, 2016, 04:03 PM
This is a fuel pressure data monitored Powertrain Control Module (PCM) code. When the PCM detects any of a number of problems in the controlled fuel pressure it will go into limp in mode which causes power to shut down to the 40-45 MPH until the engine is shut off and restarted without the problem present. This code only comes up on the second time the PCM see's a fault in the system making it harder to pinpoint in diagnostics, to pinpoint the problem will take a skilled tech. There is a low pressure lift pump in the fuel tank that supplies fuel to the high pressure fuel pump at the cylinder head which in turn is controlled by the PCM to exact fuel pressure to allow the fuel injector's to spray directly into the combustion chamber. Any lack of electrical signals to and from the pressure duty cycle controlled fuel regulator, or the hi & low pressure fuel pump supply of fuel or electrical shorts to and from the PCM will cause the code and only on the second incident, it goes into limp in.
Question Answered: What causes the transmission to pump fluid through the radiator?
August 08, 2016, 09:59 AM
A Automatic transmission is simply a hyd pump and is controlled my the solenoids and valve's in the valve body. Line pressure and circulation is determined by the PCM or BCM to control shift's. Cooling line pressure is most of the time close to zero when in park or neutral depending on the application. In low and rev at idle cooling line pressure is in between 65 - 110 PSI. If you checked the pressure in park you could very well see zero pressure but if you ran it thru the gears and still had no pressure then it's a small list of problems. Lack of fluid, valve body problem or the most common the hyd pump failed in the transmisson, either of the last 2 will require a trans rebuild. Good luck, Tim
Question Answered: Does an Abs pump cause brakes, calibers & rotors to go out every 2-3 weeks.
August 05, 2016, 10:27 AM
Please describe "go out". I will do my best to guide you but PLEASE do not drive the car until you've fixed it. Driving with iffy brakes could cost you or someone else their life and the hassle of catching a ride is nothing compared to your losses should you have a wreak and injure yourself or someone else, even if you think you have a handle on it. ABS systems are designed with fail safe modes that tell the BCM to return the braking system to non-ABS control, so it should pop the ABS light (make sure it's not the ABS = Air Bag System light your looking at) on and you would only have normal braking meaning you can lock the brakes up in a panic stop. The function of the ABS system reads each wheel speed it's function with info from the the Suspension system allowing the car to keep any tire from coming to a complete stop when rolling, allowing more traction on a rapid stop and any tire from sliding on slick, wet, gravel or sand when the driver applies the brakes. Should you being driving along and apply the brakes for a rapid stop you should feel the pedal pulsating back at you as it controls the pressure to each brake. So going out completely is a scary term. If you mean wearing out, there are possibility's of ABS problems or mechanical problems. Please detail from start to finish what happens when they go out. Tim, Mingo Auto ASE Master
Question Answered: My air stays on and won't turn off the car will start up but won't stay started
August 03, 2016, 08:54 AM
Not likely, The HVAC module only talk's to the PCM so it's aware of the power drag of the AC Compressor. These 2 wires talk on frequencies at 2.5V so even if one of these data lines were at fault it couldn't power the HVAC demands. It sounds more like you have a elect short in the system ground. If so any time you turn on a related system (even thru a bulb) it supplies a ground to a part of the HVAC system and allows the system to run. Along with that depending on where and what is shorted it can cause a start die symptom. If it start's and dies in 1 to 3 seconds and then will not crank over for 2 to 4 minutes it's shorted into the passlock ignition disable system. Unless your able to trace elect. short's or you just get lucky looking around at any exposed wiring or like you've had a radio installed recently, you may what to consider taking it to a pro.
Question Answered: Car refuses to start. Was running 5 days ago, died, hasn't started since.
August 03, 2016, 08:33 AM
Your Dist be full of oil is a sign your Dist seal has failed. Oil attack's any elect wiring and components. More than likely it's lack of spark. You'll need to test out the ignitior. You also need to check all of the secondary ignition system for grounding from the antifreeze. Also note the speed the engine cranks if it's cranking faster then normal before starting in the past it's likely the timing belt was weak and soaking it with antifreeze caused it to fail. In that case you could be looking at bent valves.
Question Answered: Diagnosing "popping" noise when transmission is put into drive or reversed
July 13, 2016, 05:00 PM
CV axle's are mainly inspected for excessive play forward and backward's but normally a test drive into a large parking lot where you turn the steering wheel hard to the left and accelerate hard and then the same to the right. If you hear a loud popping sound you've found the problem. I would guess you don't have a CV axle problem from your description, it sound's a lot more like at least one broken motor mount under the engine. They can be checked by having someone watch the engine bay as you hold the brake hard, place the car in drive and again accelerate with a quick jab to 2500 rpm on the gas petal. Then do the same with Rev and you'll see the engine raise up several inch's showing you that lower mount is broken. The vibration comes in at road speed when the engine is running at coast speed. Meaning 35 to 50 MPH when the engine rev's have caught up with the transfer of power to the drive wheel's so you no longer have to accelerate or let of the gas. When in the coast part of the drive cycle power in slightly added by the engine causing torque to lift and drop the engine rapidly. Letting off the gas or accelerating will cause the vibration to stop. Happy Motoring. Tim
Question Answered: Sometimes Cranks but won't start for no apparent reason
July 04, 2016, 02:08 PM
On a lot of older Dodge product's you can rotate the ignition key on and off 3 times and the light will start flashing codes at you. Try that and look for long and short pauses with a longer break in between. Watch it several time's and you'll figure it out. You will mainly be looking for a CAMSHAFT sensor code at this point. Exp. ____ _ _ is 12, ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ _ _ _ _ _ is 55. 12 is a normal start code and 55 is the normal finished code. ___ ___ _ _ _ is 23 I'm sure you get the idea.
Question Answered: How do I reprogram my replacement key
July 03, 2016, 12:59 PM
Key cylinder and switch's are a common problem on Honda's and Toyota's. Normally there is a work around if you have your original Black key. We re-key the new cylinder before installing the switch. It sounds like you just bought a replacement from a parts store and had it changed. If you changed the ignition switch and did not have the cylinder re-keyed to your original black key the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will not have receive the correct code and it goes in to thief mode. Sorry to tell you but the PCM has to be reprogrammed with a Honda PGM tester. If you've lost your original key they will have to contact Honda Customer Support to get your code to start the re-key process. You should spring for at least 2 of the high dollar keys at that time if you plan on keeping the car. Try this to get the answer to it being a key support problem. Turn the ignition switch on but don't try and start the engine. The alarm light will come on for 2 seconds and then go off if the PCM read's the key code correctly and that will tell you there is another problem. If it start's blinking after 2 seconds and you have no other keys like the gray valet key you will have to have it towed to the Honda Dealer for re-coding. You might give Second Generation Locksmith a call and see if if He has the Newest key code equipment for your car. A trip charge from him would possibly be cheaper then a tow truck. I have gotten lucky a few times with older Honda's by turning the key on for 10 seconds off for 30 seconds 3 times and the fourth time leaving the key on for 25 minutes, then disconnect the Neg battery cable for 30 minutes. Then turn the key off and take it out. Make sure any aftermarket stereo or other powered equipment is disconnected. (ie phone charges, GPS, Amp, Aftermarket stereo, anything with a capacitor) Then disconnect the positive cable from the battery and hold the Neg and Pos cable end's together for 60 seconds. This discharge's any residual energy in the PCM, BCM, ACM, ICM and any other system module. Then in order, reconnect the POS cable, The Neg cable, put the key in the ignition and turn in on for 1 second and off for 10 seconds. Three times and the fourth leave it on. Watch the light if it blinks wait 30 minutes if it continue's to blink and the light stay on for 5 seconds after being turned off, sorry but your dead in the water and it will be off to the Honda dealer. Good luck and have a great 4Th of July. TJ, Mingo Auto, ASE Thriple Cert. Master Tech
Question Answered: My lancer has a startup delay? is that good or bad to have. Advice please!
June 28, 2016, 10:55 AM
It's never a good thing for an engine to crank and not start Oil pressure doesn't start to build up until approx 400 rpm and normal pressure is checked at 650 - 2000 rpm most engines. Start-up is where the most engine wear comes from so ideally you would want to have it start on the first revolution. Another thing to think about is the wear and tear on the starter, alt and battery system from long engine cranking. Do you have a check engine light on, if so, it's possibly a code Po335 or 340. This is a common hard or no start problem with the Lancer's. First you have to have the codes checked and if it turn's out to be one of these codes you need to get your hand's on a O-scope to check pattern's from component's in your ignition system to track the problem down. Should you have an engine light on and your driving it like that you are doing damage to your emission's systems. Check engine light's can no longer be ignored because ignoring them will cause cascade failures. So a simple $200. repair can turn into several thousand dollars in damage in a reasonably short time.
Question Answered: Will start but can't drive because it keeps dieing
June 22, 2016, 08:46 AM
If it has a check engine light and or a power loss lamp on that's where you should start troubleshooting. You should check fuel pressure also. That system is the normal electronic throttle motor or accl by wire, meaning there is not a cable from the gas petal to the throttle body unit only wiring. Should there be a problem in this system you will have to take the vehicle into the repair shop for proper diagnostics's and repair. Hope that help's.
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