Mingo Automotive

Technician
142 points
Started out working for my Grandfather in his Apco Service Station about 10 years old. After he retired I took over his business at 18 and built my first 3 bay shop which quickly grew to 10 bays and a part's store. Moved location's in 1996 after 20 years in business to the South West corner of Pine and Mingo Rd. I now have 2 location's to serve my long time customers. The Mingo Rd shop next to Batman's at Mingo & Pine and our newest location in Owasso on 116Th St East (HWY 20) and 16351 Th North. We are alway's ready to serve you. WE'RE YOUR ONE STOP SHOP!
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Question Answered: you can smell the gas coming in the car and don't want to start
September 13, 2016, 03:32 PM
Sorry to here your having problems but it not uncommon for these model's and years of most Dodge & Chry product's to have several common problems relating to intermittent no start conditions. With not much to go on, the fact your smelling fuel brings a few things to mind. Your injector's are pulsing fuel it sound's like so it would be a lack of spark causing the no start. Most all late model's vehicles have wireless tech in them and like Window's XP's blue screen of death they will lockup. So the next time it happens, disconnect your battery post from the neg (-) cable but be careful should it have a sensor attaching it to the battery. Don't break it you have to have it. Wait 20 second's and reconnect it and attempt to start it, if it starts Dodge has a TSB # 08-007-08 Rev A that should be performed on it to help correct the problem. If by chance it doesn't start, make sure all accessory's are off and disconnect the neg - cable again and touch it to the pos + cable and hold it for 12 seconds. Sounds a little scary but not to worry nothing from the factory retains enough power to cause a problem but this will drain any excess power from the wireless and control modules long enough for a reset. Then reconnect and attempt to restart. If it still fails to start most any other testing will require a high dollar scan tool and a scope to hunt it down. Good luck.
Question Answered: Need my fusebox replaced.
September 12, 2016, 10:53 AM
If your well versed on electrical work your cheapest route would be to go to a "you pull your own part" salvage and pull the box you need, possibly with any wiring connected. While removing the salvage part you will learn how to remove the box in question from your vehicle also. If you are not skilled in this area you should take it in to a shop and have the work done. Chances are the entire box is not the problem unless someone has installed the wrong amp fuses into it. Some late model PDC's and fuse boxes have relay's and circuits that do fail rarely but do.
Question Answered: How would I fix my ABS system so it is not always on and ruining my brakes.
September 12, 2016, 10:46 AM
Hi, First off your ABS system should in no way damage your brakes, Normally the main function of the ABS is to keep you from cooking your brakes plus shorting the stopping distance by not allowing you to lock up the tire to ground contact which into turn stop's the car much faster then just sliding the tires. When the ABS light does come on anytime the entire ABS system shut's down and returns to normal brakes and in turn can't cause any damage to the system but also with the light on the stopping distance in a panic stop become longer allowing for more accidents. In "Very very very" rare instant's when someone has worked on an ABS system and not been trained to repair them, they and cause real problem that can go unseen by the ABS module by pressing in the calipers without opening the bleeder and forces the contaminated fluid back up and into the ABS valves causing system damage. As long as the brake work was done correctly you will never see damage to the system from ABS that can cause wear. Depending on your problems I would look for things like sticking hardware and calipers and bad brakes hose holding pressure in one or two corners of the system. With so little to go on I hope that helps.
Question Answered: Why does my a/c smell like antifreeze?
September 12, 2016, 10:26 AM
Hello, Sorry to hear that, there are a few things that could be happening. The first would be if you are sure it's an antifreeze smell you can bet the heater core is leaking. It and the AC core sit in the HVAC box and once it starts to leak you can git the small with AC but a lot stronger if your using the heater. On a cool morning it can even fog up your windshield on the inside. If it's not exactly like antifreeze, it's possible there is mold growing on the AC core, it's a real musky smell. The local parts store's sale a spray can with a long hose to allow you to spray into the air intakes with your cabin air filter removed that will kill this smell. While your at it change the cabin air filter. Good luck and have a great day.
Question Answered: ReducedPower light comes on at random. Slows car from highway speed to 40-45 MPH
August 20, 2016, 04:03 PM
This is a fuel pressure data monitored Powertrain Control Module (PCM) code. When the PCM detects any of a number of problems in the controlled fuel pressure it will go into limp in mode which causes power to shut down to the 40-45 MPH until the engine is shut off and restarted without the problem present. This code only comes up on the second time the PCM see's a fault in the system making it harder to pinpoint in diagnostics, to pinpoint the problem will take a skilled tech. There is a low pressure lift pump in the fuel tank that supplies fuel to the high pressure fuel pump at the cylinder head which in turn is controlled by the PCM to exact fuel pressure to allow the fuel injector's to spray directly into the combustion chamber. Any lack of electrical signals to and from the pressure duty cycle controlled fuel regulator, or the hi & low pressure fuel pump supply of fuel or electrical shorts to and from the PCM will cause the code and only on the second incident, it goes into limp in.
Question Answered: What causes the transmission to pump fluid through the radiator?
August 08, 2016, 09:59 AM
A Automatic transmission is simply a hyd pump and is controlled my the solenoids and valve's in the valve body. Line pressure and circulation is determined by the PCM or BCM to control shift's. Cooling line pressure is most of the time close to zero when in park or neutral depending on the application. In low and rev at idle cooling line pressure is in between 65 - 110 PSI. If you checked the pressure in park you could very well see zero pressure but if you ran it thru the gears and still had no pressure then it's a small list of problems. Lack of fluid, valve body problem or the most common the hyd pump failed in the transmisson, either of the last 2 will require a trans rebuild. Good luck, Tim
Question Answered: Does an Abs pump cause brakes, calibers & rotors to go out every 2-3 weeks.
August 05, 2016, 10:27 AM
Please describe "go out". I will do my best to guide you but PLEASE do not drive the car until you've fixed it. Driving with iffy brakes could cost you or someone else their life and the hassle of catching a ride is nothing compared to your losses should you have a wreak and injure yourself or someone else, even if you think you have a handle on it. ABS systems are designed with fail safe modes that tell the BCM to return the braking system to non-ABS control, so it should pop the ABS light (make sure it's not the ABS = Air Bag System light your looking at) on and you would only have normal braking meaning you can lock the brakes up in a panic stop. The function of the ABS system reads each wheel speed it's function with info from the the Suspension system allowing the car to keep any tire from coming to a complete stop when rolling, allowing more traction on a rapid stop and any tire from sliding on slick, wet, gravel or sand when the driver applies the brakes. Should you being driving along and apply the brakes for a rapid stop you should feel the pedal pulsating back at you as it controls the pressure to each brake. So going out completely is a scary term. If you mean wearing out, there are possibility's of ABS problems or mechanical problems. Please detail from start to finish what happens when they go out. Tim, Mingo Auto ASE Master
Question Answered: My air stays on and won't turn off the car will start up but won't stay started
August 03, 2016, 08:54 AM
Not likely, The HVAC module only talk's to the PCM so it's aware of the power drag of the AC Compressor. These 2 wires talk on frequencies at 2.5V so even if one of these data lines were at fault it couldn't power the HVAC demands. It sounds more like you have a elect short in the system ground. If so any time you turn on a related system (even thru a bulb) it supplies a ground to a part of the HVAC system and allows the system to run. Along with that depending on where and what is shorted it can cause a start die symptom. If it start's and dies in 1 to 3 seconds and then will not crank over for 2 to 4 minutes it's shorted into the passlock ignition disable system. Unless your able to trace elect. short's or you just get lucky looking around at any exposed wiring or like you've had a radio installed recently, you may what to consider taking it to a pro.
Question Answered: Car refuses to start. Was running 5 days ago, died, hasn't started since.
August 03, 2016, 08:33 AM
Your Dist be full of oil is a sign your Dist seal has failed. Oil attack's any elect wiring and components. More than likely it's lack of spark. You'll need to test out the ignitior. You also need to check all of the secondary ignition system for grounding from the antifreeze. Also note the speed the engine cranks if it's cranking faster then normal before starting in the past it's likely the timing belt was weak and soaking it with antifreeze caused it to fail. In that case you could be looking at bent valves.
Question Answered: Diagnosing "popping" noise when transmission is put into drive or reversed
July 13, 2016, 05:00 PM
CV axle's are mainly inspected for excessive play forward and backward's but normally a test drive into a large parking lot where you turn the steering wheel hard to the left and accelerate hard and then the same to the right. If you hear a loud popping sound you've found the problem. I would guess you don't have a CV axle problem from your description, it sound's a lot more like at least one broken motor mount under the engine. They can be checked by having someone watch the engine bay as you hold the brake hard, place the car in drive and again accelerate with a quick jab to 2500 rpm on the gas petal. Then do the same with Rev and you'll see the engine raise up several inch's showing you that lower mount is broken. The vibration comes in at road speed when the engine is running at coast speed. Meaning 35 to 50 MPH when the engine rev's have caught up with the transfer of power to the drive wheel's so you no longer have to accelerate or let of the gas. When in the coast part of the drive cycle power in slightly added by the engine causing torque to lift and drop the engine rapidly. Letting off the gas or accelerating will cause the vibration to stop. Happy Motoring. Tim
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