sounds kinda like what my 2000 F150 did,digital odometer.could not see my miles,beat the crap out of the dash,until i researched it and found out that it is a very common problem,called the famous ford odometer black out! just kept reading/researching.started to send it off to E-bay cluster repair service,but decided to do it myself.all mine was is what is called a cold/cracked solder joint.fixed it for around .05 cents worth of solder,Yep,a whole nickel,plus my time.THEN,i called the dealer and explained my problem to the service manager.he said Yep,very common problem on the fords,lincolns and many more,still didn't tell him i already fixed it.he said NO FIX.have to bring it to them and order a new cluster,$1200.00.i said really! he says Yep,then they have to program my PATS keys to the new cluster or my truck won't start,$200.00 more?he said no way around it,bring it on in,we'll take care of you?still didn't tell him i already fixed it.but i did mention to him some things about his "kin folk".
there are some repair services on e-bay,but you have to ship your cluster to them.you can still drive it without the cluster in it,computer keeps up with the miles,or just keep researching,and you most likely find your problem somewhere on a forum..wait,found this on a Honda Ridgeline forum>>>Re: Blinking info display??
I think I've found the culprit. Today I took the dash unit out and took off the front cover, exposing a small 5 or 6-pin connector that connects the LCD to the PC board. I pried on the LCD very carefully to work the pins in the mating socket. I also applied something called Stabilant 22 that I've used in the past for mystery connector problems. Now the display is working fine.
The LCD connector uses tin-plated contacts, so it's not surprising that they become intermittent after a few years and many heat/cold cycles. I used to design and build PC boards for the computer industry, and we never used anything but gold-plated connectors for best reliability.
If you try this fix, be very easy when you pry on the LCD. The pins are soldered to foil that's directly applied to the glass substrate, so you should assume it's very fragile. Just moving the connector pins in and out a tenth of an inch or less a couple of times should probably remove the corrosion and reestablish contact. Use a little spray contact cleaner if you have it, too.
