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Question Asked: fuel pump will not prime at all,used to hear for 2 seconds,now nothing.
February 27, 2015, 11:34 AM
started about a year ago, only just once in a while.last few months it got worse,if i cycled the switch from off to run a few times,pump would eventually prime and start and ran perfect until i turn off truck.checked fuel pump fuse,its good,new fuel pump relay,new pcm relay,new ignition switch(electrical part),new starter solenoid on firewall.i removed fuel pump relay and put a jumper from pin 30(hot all times)to pin 87.this gives constant power to inertia switch,dk grn/yellow,also gives constant power leaving switch(pnk/blk)to fuel pump.there are 4 wires on fuel pum plug.pnk/blk is power and blk is ground,i have 12.54vdc at these points.fuel pump still will not prime.the other 2 wires are for the sender(gas guage,it works.yel/wht,blk/org.this has beat me up.bed is off and i found sticker on top of fuel pump assembly,and the date says 07-24-2000 and thats when the truck was built.also changed fuel filter,thats when pump quit started up after filter changed but died 5 minutes later in driveway,and now pump will not prime at all.i know that the crank sensor has to see rpm before the engine starts,but i dont think it stops the fuel pump from priming.the pump is 15 years old.i think pump is gone,but not sure.anyone had this problem or know anything i missed,please help.
Question Asked: fuel pump priming problems
February 27, 2015, 10:45 AM
Question Asked: replacing main relay
May 24, 2013, 06:24 PM
ok,everyone who has told and asked me is what i am going to do first,tomorrow,5-25-2013.i have done a lot of research on this problem,and listened to you alls post.thats the way we talk in the south.i have a 91 honda accord ex,that has been wrecked,and drove it for a while after started every time,been sitting for a while takes the same relay. i am going to swap main relays,and see if it is the relay,rather than go to az,napa,or adv.and pay $60.00 for new relay.i will drive for a few days and then post what happened.found very detailed post on r&r of relay.thanks to all.part #19236 at az.
Question Asked: my 93 honda accord starts fine,drive for 15 minutes and turn off,wont start.
May 21, 2013, 11:37 AM
this started a couple of weeks ago.i start the car,drive 10 or 15 minutes to store and turn off engine.go in store and come back will just spin over but not start.let it sit for app.5 minutes and it starts has new does not cut off when driving,skip or anything else.runs check engine light on at all.i dont know if coil is breaking down when it gets hot or if ignition module is going bad or if main relay is going bad.HELP?
Question Answered: How do I remove the fan assembly on a 2011 MKZ.
April 21, 2017, 05:09 AM
suggest ( $29.95 1 year Subscription.lots of shops use this service
Question Answered: Mechanic replaced my battery, he placed a 790cca instead of the 700cca.
April 21, 2017, 05:00 AM
more cold cranking amp battery did not cause that! suggest answering Pushrod...if the battery light was on for 2 days before POP,should have had it checked the first time you saw it come on.if that light comes on at any time,you can bet there is a problem and needs checked then.
Question Answered: why did my battery light randomly come on while driving and cut my controls?
April 21, 2017, 02:46 AM
very possible, your alternator is not working and has drained your battery,have the battery and alternator tested. most parts stores will check them free of charge.
Question Answered: windows will not go down but the locks work and power mirrors work
April 20, 2017, 10:07 PM
test the fuses with a test light.
Question Answered: engine insulation
April 20, 2017, 10:01 PM
not sure about the price,depending on how much was taken by RAT and Family to make a bed. BUT, to prevent that from EVER happening again,get you a CAT! we have a neighborhood watch cat,(A BIG EN) not mine but the neighbors and he roams the hood here,and i ain't seen a rat since we have had the hood patrol cat,and i live beside a field that use to have rats that were so big they couldn't run,they wobbled!
Question Answered: How much do I have to drive the car for the drive cycle?
April 20, 2017, 09:00 PM
Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all. The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run. The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests. The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed. Step Two: The Cold Start Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed. Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion—not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either. Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip. Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed. When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed. Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase. Step Four: More City Driving After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally. Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off. Step Five: Have your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free. If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
Question Answered: All passenger doors not working
April 20, 2017, 04:51 AM
are the doors locked?
Question Answered: Why is my honda civic engine cracking?
April 19, 2017, 11:57 AM
are you sure this started after you bought the car? before you bought it,did you drive it and take it to a mechanic to have the car check out?
Question Answered: Where is my thermostat located
April 19, 2017, 04:54 AM
google this Part Number: 902-858 and i think you will be able to find the thermostat in this thermostat housing.
Question Answered: Where is the fuel shut off?
April 18, 2017, 09:58 PM
Only Fords,Mercury,Mazda,Lincoln,and maybe i missed one,but chevys dont have them.on the ones i listed,it's called an inertia switch or fuel pump cut off case there is a wreck/accident/fire the switch trips and cuts the power off going to the fuel pump from being hit or hitting someone,running in a pot hole,curb,etc...
Problem Reported: Heater Core Replacement
May 20, 2014, 11:18 AM
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