When I start my car at first it runs great after 5min or so it well just die if your driving it well bog down maybe backfire and stall and then you have to wait a couple minutes before it willing start again iv put a new fuel filter &pump wires any ideas
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I never said to replace the parts! coil is easily verified by a visual inspection , and if needed it can be tested. the igniter can be verified but it's a little different.
No , but that combined with the overheating possibilities should be fixed. coil- hot spots 'bluish-black/rainbow depending on lighting , ANY signs of arcing. The other possibility is the 'igniter' which is inside the distributor. NEXT time you get it hot enough and it stalls on you , have a big (2 liter) bottle of ICE water (cooold , but , duh-not frozen) and pur it on the distributor housing slowly and deliberately to cool the housing quickly without flooding harness connectors etc. when the housing is cool to touch , go see if it starts.IF............it does , then you have just done my early '90s 'old school' method of diagnosing them out on the road (for broke down customers with Hondas).....Honda had lots of trouble with them back then. I found that method most time efficient under the circumstances I dealt with.....and 100% accurate.
Thank you for taking the time and helping me. I'll replace parts and let you know
I never said to replace the parts! coil is easily verified by a visual inspection , and if needed it can be tested. the igniter can be verified but it's a little different.
What would I be looking for on the coil? Would a crack in my radiator causes my car to act like this
No , but that combined with the overheating possibilities should be fixed. coil- hot spots 'bluish-black/rainbow depending on lighting , ANY signs of arcing. The other possibility is the 'igniter' which is inside the distributor. NEXT time you get it hot enough and it stalls on you , have a big (2 liter) bottle of ICE water (cooold , but , duh-not frozen) and pur it on the distributor housing slowly and deliberately to cool the housing quickly without flooding harness connectors etc. when the housing is cool to touch , go see if it starts.IF............it does , then you have just done my early '90s 'old school' method of diagnosing them out on the road (for broke down customers with Hondas).....Honda had lots of trouble with them back then. I found that method most time efficient under the circumstances I dealt with.....and 100% accurate.