Sliding doors want open. Keeps draining battery. New battery installed

Thank you for your reply. We are trying get it figured out.

A/C works. No Noises. Problem started with passenger side sliding door started buzzing. I finally got it to stop. Then the door wouldn't close all the way. We finally got the door to shut. Just didn't use for a while. Husband was going on fishing trip. He said would look at it when he got back. Went to crank it one morning. Wouldn't crank. Assumed the battery had died. bought new one. A couple days later the battery was dead again. Went back to store, they checked the battery said it was fine. Ran a drain test. Couldn't find any thing wrong. couple days later driver side sliding door stopped working all together. Battery is still draining. Thanks for your help

IF the A/C CLUTCH relay is intermittently sticking 'on' , this may be the cause of the battery drain. What/how was the parasitic draw test performed? After 15-20 minutes , it should be at less than 5 milliamps-- ?.05A-if I'm converting it correctly. IF you have the owners manual , for fuse location , you can pull the fuse for the sliding door control unit -pass. side kick-panel fuse box , either #7 or #13 I think , then with the power door completely closed , put the fuse(s) back in , turn the 'main' switch on and press and hold continuously until fully opened either right or left door-continue to hold button for about 2 seconds after door stops. Then , press and hold same door button in the close position continuously again , for about 2 seconds after it stops. Check door operation. Let me know the results of both 'draw test' and door reset.

Test was done by gentlemen at our local Advanced Auto. He brought out a tester and hooked up to the battery. Ran a test on it and said it was okay. It will be tomorrow before we can do the test with the fuse as the temperature is currently in the teens here. Will reply as soon as we can run the test. Thank you so much for your help.

Please , trust me when I say , they CANNOT do a proper parasitic draw test at Advance , unless they have an amp-probe and at LEAST 20 minutes to wait for all the computers on your Oddysey to go to 'sleep'! I don't know your situation , but if you are able , a shop may end up a little less frustrating.

Can't afford to take it in to the shop right now. We did remove the # 7 fuse last night, and the battery didn't drain. We did the reset today. It helped the driver side door, it works fine now. The passenger side door still isn't working. We can get it opened manually, but when we shut it engages then pops back open. Thank you so very much for all your help. If you have any other suggestions we would glad to hear them

...11/21/14.....Drivers side still working? I Have a question about the passenger side door...... When you go to close it manually , does the rear latch (closer motor) catch and pull it closed or do you have to keep pressure on it all the way and no noise is heard from that latch trying to 'pull' it in? AND... for my understanding , there is NO response at all if you try to open it from full closed position?

Sorry for the late reply. When you push on the door it pulls itself in and latches. Then after a few seconds it pops back open. It will open and close manually. We just can't get it to stay closed. We took out #7 fuse and left it out. We got the door to stay closed for a couple of days. The battery was staying up. Then yesterday the battery was drained again. We noticed that the door had popped open again. While driving yesterday we noticed that swerving would cause it to close, the light on dash would go off. Then it would pop back open, the light on dash would come back on. My husband says he thinks it might have something to do with the latch. He's out there trying to figure it out now. Any and all suggestions are welcome, and we thank you for all of your responses.

Any updates/insights? I'm having a similar problem without the battery drain. We've been switching off the interior lights for months to avoid any unnecessary drain when the van is off... seems to be working. But I really want to fix the door latch issue. Yesterday the power also stopped going to the door, though it opens fine manually. I'm looking into that issue separately. Thanks!

Not as of right now. We took the door apart. Couldn't find anything significant. Although the door does stayed closed now. We don't open it. The buzzer still sounds though when the van is in gear. It want stop until you put the dashboard switch in off position. As for the battery draining. We took the battery back to where we purchased it. They replaced the battery after testing it, they said it had a bad cell. We kept checking the new battery for a drain. It did have a small drain, nothing great though. Until the other night. When went to crank the van, nothing. The battery had drained again. We have been making sure there is nothing on that might cause it to drain. Although we have noticed some of the dash lights have started to blink. We are going to do a parasitic draw test as soon as as we can purchase a new meter, ours died. That is our situation as of right now sorry we couldn't be of more help. When we find out anything more. I will post it. Thanks

Thanks for posting to this site. I have a 2006 Odyssey I'm having the same problems with my passenger side sliding door as well as the battery drain. I also have a 30 second "clicking" noise from the passenger side rear when I turn on the car. Does anyone have that issue as well? I'm not sure if I fixed the battery drain. I replaced the AC clutch relay ($7 at O'Riley) as that went out on me before exactly 1 year ago this month. When I put a volt meter across the battery terminal, the voltage will drop .01 volts every second. I removed the three relays and the drop stopped. My passenger door closes, but seems to close tightly, then after 3-4 seconds, releases and is flush with the body panels. When I put the car into gear, the buzzer sounds. The only way to stop that is 1) place the door in manual or 2) push hard on the rear middle of the door until the buzzer sounds. I checked the weather stripping and seems to be fine and there is nothing blocking the rails. I did have to replace the rollers 2 years back and I thought the door may be out of alignment, so I kept messing with the replacement hinge alignment, but it seems to be aligned OK. I tried the resetting of the door to see if a sensor may be out of alignment, but that did not help. Please, if you have solved the problem, keep me informed and I'll do the same. This is driving me nuts.

I'm having the SAME problem, 2004. The contact on the frame are corroded, so I'm honking it's tripping up there. Has anyone else checked there?

At present we are not using the door. We are taking the terminal off the battery to keep the battery from draining. Would like to get a new one. It's just not feasible at the time. So we will continue to take the terminal off the battery. Did you take yours in for last recall. My husband seems to think that something happened when they fixed the fuel pump.Ours started acting up after we put it in the shop for the recall. Not sure that this has anything to do with the problem, but have wonder about it. Thanks for your reply. As always we appreciate any help we can get. Thanks again to all.

This is all have to with ECU computer board that is under the hood next to the fuse box you can get from junk yard for $3. all this problems starts when its cold out side or when it rains

Hi Sir, Is there a part number for the ECU computer board that you are referring to? My odyssey has a parasitic draining problem, and I have pin it down to fuse 7. The sliding doors appear to close OK, though sometimes it would need a bit of manual help. Last winter, especially when it was raining, the battery would definitely die overnight. As a temporary solution, I just disconnect the negative pole for now. Right now, the leakage current is about 0.4 A. It could be the ECU that you mention in this post. I would really appreciate your help. Thanks!

Hello, We have had this issue for over a year. I have passed our '05 Odyssey on to my 3 sons to transport them and their band equipment. We have tested and replaced the battery. When charged the driver side door opens and closes a crack while in motion. When parked, you have to hold the door shut to lock the car, then it slides open a crack again. We've had it in to 2 sets of mechanics who just ended up shaking their heads and telling the boys to just walk away from this otherwise fabulous vehicle. The passenger side door has been manually operated for 3 years now and all we want to do is to deactivate the driver side door so it stops draining the battery. Would removing fuse 7 turn this into a long coveted manually operable door? It seems so simple that l'm surprised professional mechanics couldn't figure it out. thanks in advance for any suggestions...

There is a procedure for resetting the doors. I don't recall it off hand, but you can look it up. For now my fuse is removed and both door are being operated manually so my battery does not drain.