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Ok, carefully add a little fuel to the throttle body and see if the engine will start up and run temporarily... IF it does, ain't got enough fuel pressure! .. IF it does not, ain't got enough ignition spark! .. To test spark .. Pull coil wire from distributor cap, hold it about 3/4 inch from a meal ground (or part) on the engine .. Have helper crank engine .. Spark should easily jump that 3/4 inch gap, be bright blue on color and snap or pop like a cap buster! .. Post results.
Tried a little starter fluid and fuel didn't start with either it would try as long as you kept turning the key . The new battery is a 550 CCA could the CCA be to low and ty for replying it's much appreciated
Pull the coil wire from distributor cap and test the ignition spark as instructed.. You ain't going to get shocked! .. You can just lay it next to a metal part on the engine while helper cranks engine but it must have that bright blue spark and an audible snap when it sparks.. That's the ONLY way we can proceed with testing.. IF uncomfortable with testing, you will need some hands-on help.. As long as the battery is strong enough to crank engine, that's good enough for testing! .. I am very familiar with this engine and can get you up and running if you will do these test.
As I stated before .. If the battery is strong enough to crank the engine over,, it is good enough for these test! .. IF the battery is 'cranking' > turning the engine over, then that's isn't the reason it's not 'starting' .. 550 'cold' cranking amps is a plenty for the 4.3 V/6 .. Let's get it running first, then worry about the battery, IF need be! .
You must have removed the wrong wire from distributor cap .. Follow the coil wire from the coil (on passenger side of engine) and remove that wire from the distributor cap and check it for fire .. On the cap, it's the one closest to the firewall on passenger side.. Leave the wire connected to the coil for test... Should get fire from the wire, NOT where it plugs into the cap! .. It seems it may have spark but let's proceed with this test first.
We're getting there .. Next test is pull a wire OFF OF A SPARK PLUG and insert a Phillips head screwdriver into the wire, holding on to screwdriver *handle* with the metal shank 3/4 inch from a metal part of the engine, does it have the same exact spark as the coil wire did in the previous test, does it also jump the 3/4 inch air gap? .. Be sure to put the coil wire back into dist cap before this test!
REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR BUTTON!!! .. Be sure to mark location of EACH wire on the distributor cap so you don't get them crossed up! .. Also note the position of the metal tab on the rotor button so you'll know how the new one needs to be installed .. Start engine and drive away .. Happy motoring!
Ok distributor cap n rotor button changed cranks find now I think I have water in my gas any suggestions on how to drain it without dropping the fuel tank put a lil fuel in the carb and it runs till it's gone
Now you're going to have to test the fuel pressure! .. Go to parts store and rent a test gauge, screw it onto the schrader valve (you should know where that is) .. Next, turn key on - off about 3 times then crank engine for few seconds and note pressure reading.. Post results... (Parts store will give money back upon return of test gauge)
When I push the Schrader valve in it shoots outbut it doesn't smell or feel like gas is there any way to drain it but I'll get a gauge tomorrow and check it out ty for you're time really appreciate it
Test gauge will have a hose for pressure release .. Using a CLEAN CLEAR container .. Take a fuel sample and let it sit for 5 minutes .. IF water in fuel, you should see a separation line between water and gas .. No way to effectively drain tank without removal.
Fuel pressure is at 63 psi drained gas and first five gallons looked fine last 2 gallons you could tell it had water in it pushed in Schrader valve and still getting water from there I guess it's still in the line but I'm just gonna keep on trying
Yeah, it ain't going to run (or run right) with H20 in the gas! .. Might as well change the *fuel filter* again... Pressure is good!.. Purge as much as you can from the line using the test gauge pressure release button and hose .. Keep after it, you almost got it back on the road!!!
Don't have gauge just pushed in the Schrader valve
Ok, carefully add a little fuel to the throttle body and see if the engine will start up and run temporarily... IF it does, ain't got enough fuel pressure! .. IF it does not, ain't got enough ignition spark! .. To test spark .. Pull coil wire from distributor cap, hold it about 3/4 inch from a meal ground (or part) on the engine .. Have helper crank engine .. Spark should easily jump that 3/4 inch gap, be bright blue on color and snap or pop like a cap buster! .. Post results.
Tried a little starter fluid and fuel didn't start with either it would try as long as you kept turning the key . The new battery is a 550 CCA could the CCA be to low and ty for replying it's much appreciated
Pull the coil wire from distributor cap and test the ignition spark as instructed.. You ain't going to get shocked! .. You can just lay it next to a metal part on the engine while helper cranks engine but it must have that bright blue spark and an audible snap when it sparks.. That's the ONLY way we can proceed with testing.. IF uncomfortable with testing, you will need some hands-on help.. As long as the battery is strong enough to crank engine, that's good enough for testing! .. I am very familiar with this engine and can get you up and running if you will do these test.
Ok I'll try that in the morning and let you know ty
✔ï¸
What about the CCA think that's not enough or is it ok ?
As I stated before .. If the battery is strong enough to crank the engine over,, it is good enough for these test! .. IF the battery is 'cranking' > turning the engine over, then that's isn't the reason it's not 'starting' .. 550 'cold' cranking amps is a plenty for the 4.3 V/6 .. Let's get it running first, then worry about the battery, IF need be! .
Pulled the wire from distributor cap never got spark from wire but had good spark and popping sound from where it plugs in
You must have removed the wrong wire from distributor cap .. Follow the coil wire from the coil (on passenger side of engine) and remove that wire from the distributor cap and check it for fire .. On the cap, it's the one closest to the firewall on passenger side.. Leave the wire connected to the coil for test... Should get fire from the wire, NOT where it plugs into the cap! .. It seems it may have spark but let's proceed with this test first.
Ok did that I'm getting an orange colored spark
A weak yellow spark that WILL NOT jump a *3/4 inch air* gap it symptom of a failed ignition coil.
It's jumping the 3/4 inch
We're getting there .. Next test is pull a wire OFF OF A SPARK PLUG and insert a Phillips head screwdriver into the wire, holding on to screwdriver *handle* with the metal shank 3/4 inch from a metal part of the engine, does it have the same exact spark as the coil wire did in the previous test, does it also jump the 3/4 inch air gap? .. Be sure to put the coil wire back into dist cap before this test!
Ok did what you said with Phillips screwdriver and no spark unless you hold it real close to the metal will not jump the 3/4 inch
REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR BUTTON!!! .. Be sure to mark location of EACH wire on the distributor cap so you don't get them crossed up! .. Also note the position of the metal tab on the rotor button so you'll know how the new one needs to be installed .. Start engine and drive away .. Happy motoring!
Ok distributor cap n rotor button changed cranks find now I think I have water in my gas any suggestions on how to drain it without dropping the fuel tank put a lil fuel in the carb and it runs till it's gone
Now you're going to have to test the fuel pressure! .. Go to parts store and rent a test gauge, screw it onto the schrader valve (you should know where that is) .. Next, turn key on - off about 3 times then crank engine for few seconds and note pressure reading.. Post results... (Parts store will give money back upon return of test gauge)
When I push the Schrader valve in it shoots outbut it doesn't smell or feel like gas is there any way to drain it but I'll get a gauge tomorrow and check it out ty for you're time really appreciate it
Test gauge will have a hose for pressure release .. Using a CLEAN CLEAR container .. Take a fuel sample and let it sit for 5 minutes .. IF water in fuel, you should see a separation line between water and gas .. No way to effectively drain tank without removal.
K will try tomorrow morning and let you know pressure and the fuel sample once again thank you for your time
✔ï¸
Fuel pressure is at 63 psi drained gas and first five gallons looked fine last 2 gallons you could tell it had water in it pushed in Schrader valve and still getting water from there I guess it's still in the line but I'm just gonna keep on trying
Yeah, it ain't going to run (or run right) with H20 in the gas! .. Might as well change the *fuel filter* again... Pressure is good!.. Purge as much as you can from the line using the test gauge pressure release button and hose .. Keep after it, you almost got it back on the road!!!