What is your question?
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What is your question?
Truck starts and runs fine during evening hours. But as soon as it starts heating up outside it will die sporadically then you wait ten minutes then it fires back up to only die again in less than 1/2 mile sometimes. Could this be caused by a failing fuel pump, and just a note. I just bought this truck used and was made aware of this problem but I have yet to put a full tank of gas in it yet, and currently there's only about an 1/8 of a tank cuz I thought I may have to pull this fuel pump n I don't want to waste a lot of money on gas. so during the hot days there is a large space in the tank for hot air to accumulate causing the pump to malfunction, then while sitting for ten minutes it gives the air time to cool a lil bit then when I drive again the air heats up and I'm back to stalling. Well at least that's my theory. What y'all think
2 Replies
FUEL PUMPS ON THIS VEHICLE ARE NOTORIOUS FOR FAILING. I DONT THINK ITS RELATED TO THE TEMP OF THE AIR BUT INSTEAD DUE TO THE FUEL TEMP. THE FUEL CIRCULATED TO THE ENGINE AND BACK TO THE TANK CONTINOUSLY CAUSING THE FUEL TO GET REAL HOT, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE FUEL IS LOW. WHEN THE IS NOT RUNNING AND THE KEY IS TURNED TO THE ON, NOT RUNNING, THE FUEL PUMP RUNS FOR 2 SECONDS NORMALLY. WHEN THE ENGINE DIES AND DOES NOT START YOU NEED TO LISTEN FOR WHETHER THE PUMP RUNS FOR THE 2 SECONDS OR NOT. IF NOT, IT IS LIKELY THE FUEL PUMP IS BAD. IF THE PUMP DOES NOT RUN YOU MIGHT TRY BANGING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE GAS TANK A FEW TIMES AND TRYING AGAIN TO SEE IF IT STARTS RUNNING. THE PUMP MAY BE SIEZING UP DUE TO GETTING HOT. THERE COULD ALSO BE A PROBLEM WITH THE FUEL PUMP RELAY. IS IT A 4 CYL OR V6 AND IF V6 IS THE 8TH DIGIT OF THE VIN A W OR AN X? Scott Schneider - President Folsom Auto Center
WHAT IS FUEL PRESSURE WARM AND COLD? DO YOU HAVE ANY CODES?
Fuel pressure is tits, all is good in the fuel hood. So time to update since my last go at fixing this issue. To date I have installed a new fuel pump, Air Intake sensor, Oil Pressure Sensor, ECT Sensor, Crankshaft Position Sensor, I took the o2 sensor out thinking maybe i clogged the CAT.... Ignition Control Module, Throttle Position Sensor, MAP sensor I reconnected all my grounds, ran continuity tests,And THE GOD DAMN P.O.S. still stalls, you wait ten to twenty minutes drives the stalls. This mere quest to fix this annoying problem has morphed. It is now a full fledged I will not rest, ever smile again flipping MISSION to fix this antichrist of a truck. Do i sound a lil frustrated. Oh mannnnn. I am now gonna test my ECM. i mean its gotta be, but i will keep this up to date because there atre thousands of us Jimmy owners who are having the same probs. I know ive talked to each and every one of them.
Hi scott, today I installed a spectra359m fuel pump, new. And It fired right up, I went and put gas in the truck and drove around for 20 minutes all over town and it ran fine. I got home and washed the truck and I did a quick spray down of the engine (after it had cooled) and I went to fire it up, and nothing, all electronics work. But this time its different Ive never had the truck not start after parking it and turning it off myself. So maybe when I sprayed down the engine compartment I did something, I sure hope its that and Im not still trying to hunt down this stalling out issue. And yes the pump does its 2 second on when the truck dies. And its the 4 cyl 2.2l whats your thoughts on a crankshaft sensor? or hell any thoughts would be great at this point, Iam down a work truck and this truck is my only means of making a living, Im a contractor, but any advice to get me in the right direction is much appreciated, thanks Chris in Folsom, CA
I suspect water got into the distributor cap area. You need to remove it and check for moisture inside the top of the cap. Dry it out real good or blow it out with compressed air. It's possible that the crank sensor could cause the problem but not likely
ITS SOLVED, THE nightmare IS FIXED. And whats messed up its the Ignition Control Module, the 2nd thing I checked. But when I pulled it. I took it to Oreilly Auto, and they checked n tested it for free. Now they said it was fine. WRONG,,, Its defective. Now in their defense because the module was not in the truck roasting hot, is that why it tested fine? I cant say for sure cuz i dont know. But the truck when i inspected it right before i took posession of it, I found that the fan clutch was not operating consistently, and was slipping. I asked the owner of the truck at the time ," did this truck ever get really overheated" and he admitted that yes one time it did get really really hot. My theory when that happened it made the ICM fail, but not completely, so from then on when the truck got to normal operating temperature, thats when the ICM would fail, So thats why it would die. So youd pull over and wait twenty minutes or so giving the block time to cool down enough for the ICM to start reading correctly n sending its signal to the ECM to send gas. Now I bought a new ICM, but i didnt install it just yet.I reinstalled the existing one this way. Its connected to the firewall via a heat sink with the cooling fins.I ran the truck pretty hard this afternoon in 98 degree heat. Not once did it stall. So its been a huge learning experience fixing this problem and I must of read 10 forums dedicated to GMC sonomas dying for no real apparent reason. Well i hope somebody stumbles across thismform if they are having the same issues, Id just squirt the ICM and see if it starts up or not then use your head and actually test it yourself, with a light tester. Thanks to all who responded. Truck kicks ass now.