Hello mfnorth06, I'm sorry but there are to many possibility's to list but I can help you narrow it down and with more information possibly get you headed in the right direction. First thing, it takes 3 basic things for an engine to start, so you have to check each one to narrow it down. You have to have ignition spark, fuel and compression. If you have access to a scan tool there may be a code present to help you start testing a system. Just remember pulling a code only get's you the system effected if it's a input to the computer that is missing or out of spec so a code for a crank or cam sensor only means that system has a problem and doesn't mean the sensors bad. The parts stores love to scan and give you a code, they just sell more parts that way and when it turns out not to be the problem they are more than happy to give a guess. Just remember these guy's sell parts and are not auto tech's with years of technical training.
Let start with spark, you can test it with a spark tester from the parts store and if you do your own work its worth the $10. if not you can plug a spark plug wire and test the coil for out put by placing a screwdriver in or on the coil tip and brace it up so no metal is touching and it's about a 1/2 inch away from metal and have someone crank it. You should see a bright blue flame jump the small gap. If so move on to fuel pressure your system should have 55 - 62 PSI assuming you don't have a fuel pressure tester, have someone turn the key on and of several times while you get close to the fuel tank and listen for it to start and stop. If you can hear it then you've done all you can do testing that fuel system requires special skills and test equipment. Your injectors are in the engine under the intake manifold. So on to compression if you don't have a compression tester, listen to the engine. Is it turning over much faster than normal if it is. Pull #1 spark plug and run the piston up to the top on the compression stroke. Once at top check the timing marks on the balance and see if they are aligned with the marks on the timing cover. Once done pull your dist cap and see if the rotor is pointing at number 1 spark plug wire. If not it's jumped timing.
A few tip's.
1: If you don't understand how to complete these task's save yourself time, money and possibly a injury and take it to a professional independent shop. Over the last 35 years I've seen thousands of cars a person has spent $600. to $900. on before bring the car in and it cost under $200. to fix the real problem, they were just throwing parts at them.
2: Cylinder #1 is the 1 St cylinder on the left hand side and the plug wire is attached to the side of the cap that has 3 terminal outlets and it's the middle one from the factory.
3: Your fuel system comprises of the pump, pressure and return lines and what is called by tech's a fuel spider/fuel pressure regulator that supplies fuel evenly between the cylinder's and can cause even the most experienced tech trouble when testing a no start. Not the correct pressure and amount of fuel will cause a no start in two ways. One there could not be enough supply the other could be several cylinders getting way to much fuel and flooding the cylinders until the spark plugs are black and fouled.
4: Common problem's are the fuel spider, fuel pump and filter, ignition coil and coil wire, ignition module, a fuse, crank and cam sensor's, jumped timing chain, bad PCM or wiring shorts. I hope this helps. Good luck, Tim
