2000 Ford Focus Its a 2.0 dohc vin 3 engine.
Timing question?
Its a 2.0 dohc vin 3 engine.
Timing question?
What is your question?
I just did a timing belt change, changed timing belt pulleys, the waterpump, added a cold air intake, autolite xp iridium plugs, motorcraft oil change with motorcraft filter cleaned the MAF using CRC maf cleaner, clean plug wire boots, freshly sealed the valve cover, flushed and cleaned the cooling system.
Ok before i did all this the car would not drive. It all started with a hard vibration while driving and then shut off. The car would then crank and start but when put into gear shut off. I replaced the mai. Engine fuse after it blew trying to run in this condition and then replaced the air intake on the original air cleaner box. The car thwn startef again moved about five feet n shut off again. The idle was fine at this point but when put in gear would become very ruff n shut off.
So i towed it home and perfomed tge fixes i mentioned above thinking my problem was my timing. I used the propep timing tools (bar and pin) and follwed professional instructions on setting the time properly. I used everything that was recommended by ford no substitutes.
After i finished all tge work i crunk up the car which started on the first crank but sounded louder than usual, seem to idle a little ruff but would smooth out when the gas is pressed. If i rev it up n let off the idle smooths out more but comes back at times. The car did seem to drive rather fine tho i only moved from one driveway to my other. I am wondering if the car just needs to be driven a few miles so that the computer may adjust. If its the new intake that seems so loud because tge sound is mostly coming from that area. Which is close to trans. Pan so it could be trans pan that is making noise hard to tell. Or if my timing is somehow still off. I was thinking IFF my timing was off like that the car wouldn't start and if it did even pressing the gas would not smooth it out.
If anyone has suggestions please let me know.
Im hoping i just need to drive a few miles.
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Check engine light on? .. You have anyany way to tell if it's going into closed loop after running awhile and staying in closed loop? .. Do you even know what I'm referring to??
Im not really sure i haven't let it run long enough yet for it to enter closed loop i dont think. I noticed symptoms immediately upon starting after repairs so i didnt run it very long at all maybe 1 1/2-2. 1/2 minutes. So i dont think the engine reached a high enough temp for closed loop. And the driveway i moved to was only about 20 feet away. Unfortunately i no longer own a scanner to be able to tell with a digital reading. I can maybe drive to parts store. I believe they all use code readers that can read if its in open or closed loop. The check engine light was on before but im not sure now i didnt even think to look. Its late here so ill update you more tomorrow. Thanks also would it staying open cause the vibration?
Very possible!.. Constant open loop operation or going from closed loop 'back' to open loop at idle is indicative of a vacuum leak.. Possibly at LOWER intake manifold at PCV supply port.. Its difficult to see, use good flashlight.. Good luck with it!
OK so update I drove the car to the store today and I can definitely tell a difference in the engines performance. The idle is much smoother than before. It still seems to have a high rev problem when first started but settles quickly after simply reving the engine more so I'm not sure if this is the engine or the transmission whining. I have slight slippage problems so Im sure the tranny needs an overhaul which I planned on flushing cleaning debris replacing filter and A&B solenoids anyways.. I've determined the deeper sound that is constant is the cold air intake. I've never had one so I didn't realize the cabin noise some can produce. I'm guessing because it no longer has the resonator. I could put resonator back on but I don't mind the noise and (think) I can feel the difference it makes. But I'm wondering if this could be the symptom of me getting a bad TPS reading on orileys scanner. I ask because I just replaced the TPS a month or so before car broke down. I've heard about it being calibrated but I've also heard this is rubbish. I have not have the code reset since replacing but the cars symptoms could be coming from the TPS so I'm concerned it or the connector could be faulty. Update more when I can
Im not really sure i haven't let it run long enough yet for it to enter closed loop i dont think. I noticed symptoms immediately upon starting after repairs so i didnt run it very long at all maybe 1 1/2-2. 1/2 minutes. So i dont think the engine reached a high enough temp for closed loop. And the driveway i moved to was only about 20 feet away. Unfortunately i no longer own a scanner to be able to tell with a digital reading. I can maybe drive to parts store. I believe they all use code readers that can read if its in open or closed loop. The check engine light was on before but im not sure now i didnt even think to look. Its late here so ill update you more tomorrow. Thanks also would it staying open cause the vibration?
Very possible!.. Constant open loop operation or going from closed loop 'back' to open loop at idle is indicative of a vacuum leak.. Possibly at LOWER intake manifold at PCV supply port.. Its difficult to see, use good flashlight.. Good luck with it!
OK so update I drove the car to the store today and I can definitely tell a difference in the engines performance. The idle is much smoother than before. It still seems to have a high rev problem when first started but settles quickly after simply reving the engine more so I'm not sure if this is the engine or the transmission whining. I have slight slippage problems so Im sure the tranny needs an overhaul which I planned on flushing cleaning debris replacing filter and A&B solenoids anyways.. I've determined the deeper sound that is constant is the cold air intake. I've never had one so I didn't realize the cabin noise some can produce. I'm guessing because it no longer has the resonator. I could put resonator back on but I don't mind the noise and (think) I can feel the difference it makes. But I'm wondering if this could be the symptom of me getting a bad TPS reading on orileys scanner. I ask because I just replaced the TPS a month or so before car broke down. I've heard about it being calibrated but I've also heard this is rubbish. I have not have the code reset since replacing but the cars symptoms could be coming from the TPS so I'm concerned it or the connector could be faulty. Update more when I can