What is your question?
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What is your question?
I have this front end thump noise when driving over light bumps on road. Are the two issues related with the front end noise and the vibration
What makes this problem better or worse?
Nothing
How long has your 2016 Ford Explorer had this problem?
A few weeks
2 Replies
Hello the noise may or may not be related to your vibration concern. The vibration concern is directly related to brake disc rotor overheating, causing them to warp. The brake rotors should be measured to see if they are of a safe thickness to resurface, and if so, should be resurfaced with an on-car brake lathe for best results. Brake pad thickness should are checked too, and if they are any less than 5 mm or so from the backing plate, the brake pads should be replaced for best performance. An added strong suggestion -- replace your brake fluid! This is NOT listed in the Ford maintenance manual, but it is an industry standard to replace brake fluid every 2-3 years. If your brake fluid is more than 2 years old, it may already have too much moisture in it, causing the boiling point of the fluid to go too low. This can influence the brakes to overheat easily, and eventually warps those rotors causing the vibration. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it takes on moisture in the atmosphere, contaminating your brake fluid overall and lowering the boiling point of the fluid, which causes the overheating of the brakes, and subsequent brake rotor vibration.
Have experienced mechanic test drive vehicle for *hands-on* evaluation - steering wheel ‘shimmy’ while breaking is typically the result of warped front disc rotors... The front end “thump” is concerning and requires hands-on attention as well. Good luck!
FYI: Improper wheel lug nut torque // torque sequence is the most common cause for disc brakes rotor warpage .. Often the proper methods aren’t used even by personnel with some experience that simply do not take the time to do it right.. Seems everyone is in a hurry.
Although I agree with lug nut torque being important, I respectfully disagree about this being the most common cause. Historically speaking, there is an extreme neglect to brake fluid. Brake fluid simply must be changed every 2-3 years, as being hydroscopic inherently, it attracts moisture lowering the boiling point of the brake fluid and increasing the risk and likelihood of brake system overheating. When overheating occurs, rotors warp. Far more often than lug nut torque issues. Many vehicle manufacturers don't even list brake fluid replacement as a maintenance requirement. I spent 20 years at Ford related dealerships and can say for sure that Ford is one of those manufacturers. As a result, the F Series trucks, vans, Expeditions, Explorers and even minivans of the past, all of which are heavier vehicles and provide a greater amount of stress on braking systems -- and all of which are vehicles that are often used to carry or tow heavy items additionally -- are highly susceptible to brake fluid boiling in the first place. Add moisture that naturally occurs over time and it gets far more common to have rotor vibration. Yes, wheel lug torque and sequence of torquing should be systematic and proper. But I'm pointing out that brake fluid is way too often overlooked, and I can tell you on this Explorer that this writer has, the likelihood that the brake fluid has ever been changed is almost nil. So, you have a 4 year old Ford Explorer in New York which is an environment loaded with moisture and humidity in the first place that has brake fluid highly compromised on a vehicle that is a bit top heavy and can be easily loaded down and stressed, driving in a frequent stop and start environment that can also cause brake fluid overheating... Not knocking the lug torque recommendation, but definitely asserting that it's not the most common cause of brake vibration.
Just one question so I can learn something new - how does overheating brake ‘fluid‘ actually cause rotor warpage? I agree after the fluid has been tested and found contaminated it should be replaced - no doubt about that fact — just difficult to figure how it contributes to excessive rotor runout.. Improper lug nut torque coupled with excessive heat is a no brainer... Anyway that’s how it been for a VERY LONG TIME... I am always open minded.
Brake fluid that has a lower boiling point as a result of moisture will not allow the brake pads and calipers to dissipate heat the way they should and normally would. Brake components radiating excessive temperatures transfers also to brake rotors. Yes, lug nut torque can affect things, but not as the primary cause -- at least in what I've seen first hand. No disrespect intended. In the case of the person asking this question, it's almost clearly a case of a rotor stored in a warehouse improperly causing out-of-round conditions out of the box.
I do not feel the vibration on the brake pedal though. I do acknowledge that in general it is the rotor that causes this vibration, and my rotors and pads were replaced very recent. I suppose I might have to inspect my tie rods bushings as well as the front end suspension bushings
You don't have to feel it in your brake pedal. If it shakes your steering wheel rhythmically only upon brake application, it is 100% brake rotor related. And, I go back to fluid change and ensuring new brake rotors off the shelf are not out of round in the first place. Because they are often stored wrong at parts warehouses, they can come out of the box slightly warped and require a light resurface. A rhythmic steering shake on brake application is in no way shape or form ever related to steering or suspension components. They are entirely unable to create a rhythmic vibration that is characteristic of a brake rotor issue.
Ok great., now I can reassure myself that it is indeed the rotors that are warped. And it’s odd that I had just replaced them not too long ago. And it is only on this make and model that I had experienced this issue with the rotors being warped so quickly, and I never really thought that to torque the lug nuts or to change the brake fluid every couple of years had mattered. I will do the brake fluid change and torque the lug nuts ., I believe that it’s 100 pounds?...
Torque SEQUENCE is just as important as torque value! Tighten lugs partially in a star pattern - then finish torquing to specs in same manner. ✔️ 100 ft lbs is correct final torque value. (Of course all of this is after rotor runout has been checked / corrected) Good luck with the outcome - whatever it may be!
Thank you