What is your question?
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What is your question?
My proportioning valve's button is popped out and is frozen in place. Loosen it? Rebuild it? Help!
2 Replies
No rear brakes and poor pedal... just wondering what promped you to test the prop valve....Try tapping on the plunger... it may come loose or try ebay.... Did you try NAPA?
The brake lines from the master cylinder go to it, replace it.
Any suggestions on where to find one?
Most part store will carry it or be able to get it overnight.
No the actually don't carry it nor can it be ordered from anywhere I've researched. Wondering if an adjusable after market one would work.
Sounds about right for Dodge.
Yes, but it is a 1990.
Shouldn't matter what year it is except 30's, 40's and 50's. There is a company in Mo. outside of Kansas city that has parts for many classics, but I don't use them anymore. Try to use a search engine to find a dealer is all I can suggest.
Turns out everything was fine. The replaced brake line was not tight enough and was drawing in air but not leaking fluid. After multiple times of bleeding it finally started leaking. I tightened it better and bled again..brakes are great. With the cap off the reservoir the prop valve finally rest. ABS still on but brakes work well.
ABS light on for years. Now pulling to the left sometimes when braking. Discovered pin frozen in out position. Tapping did no good. I don't want to hit it hard. Broken would probably cause a leak.
That's not your problem anyway!!! ... More likely a problem in the RIGHT brake that is causing this... the left side is doing all the work!
Figures, I was going to replace the left caliper because I can't bleed it. Stripped head on the bleeder. I figured it was grabbing due to old fluid.
Simply put::: The prop valve keeps the rear brakes from locking the rear wheels!!! ... There is nothing wrong with your valve!!! ... FIX the front brakes!!!! Bye!
Thank you!
You'er welcom!
I did find info about the Brake Proportioning Valve having a valve for left and right front lines and that they can stick open.This described exactly how my brakes work. Would you reply with your thoughts on that? I put a new caliper. Others say it's the brake line.
I've been working on vehicles for over 40 years, in which time have had to replace 2 that's two proportioning valves!!! One the customer screwed up replacing a line... The other was my mistake!!!!.... You do as you wish....evidently it's not much of a problem since it's been going on 3 months now!! Good luck to ya!
Yea Pushrod. I've had other things to work on. Nothing much left but to put a new brake line on. New caliper and pads are good. I'm thinking the rear ABS pump is causing a problem too. Sometimes when braking it feels like the rear drums are out of round as if the pump is over working. I'd like to disconnect it all. If you know how to drive who needs ABS anyway?
Yes I have to agree with that!!!.... I pulled the fuse on my Blazer... If I want to slide the tires, I will do so..... From what I see driving on the roads today... ABS ain't going to help!!... Unless there's an app for that .. you know exactly what I mean!
Hi Pushrod. I replaced the right front brake line and bled it. Turned right rear drum and stopped the vibration. The prop plunger did push in about a 16th of an inch before bleeding. No more pulling to the left stopping properly...Until.. About 4 miles pedal going to the floor, barely stopping but, no pulling to the left. Re bled using one man tight clear hoses into a jug of brake fluid. Perfect pedal for about 30 miles. Then replaced the master cylinder. Bench bled the new MC. Bled the entire system, all 5 points, good to go for about 40 miles. Slowly right back to going to the floor and barely stopping. No leaks anywhere. When I put the turned drum on the right rear I did not manually adjust the rear brakes. Could that be the problem or maybe the booster? No loss of fluid. I'm baffled. Replacing the line fixed the left pull...but...lol