Was having issues with my car starting. Came to the site found out what the problem was. We took the jumper cables from the negative post to the side of the engine/tranny and it actually tried to start So we connected a ground wire. Yried to start but wouldn't turn over. A brand new battery that was about 4 months ago was drained so we cashed in on the warranty and got a new one. The old one was tested said the battery was at 12 volts but it was bad. We drove a couple miles and the car stalled and died again we open up the hood and the ground wire that we put in was melted. And the battery was drained again. What could be the issue with the melting of the ground wire and the car not starting?
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Okay I will not be able to try this until Monday. But my question is what was causing the rubber around the wire to melt? Do I also need to run a ground wire from the tranny to the firewall or the engine to the firewall? Just trying to figure out what was causing the melting!
You have a gremlin in there! What size wire did you use(the one that melted) and you ran it from where to where? you can run as many grounds as you would like to,but one would be sufficient just like in the video link that I sent to you #4 gauge wire,making sure all ground/power connections are clean,look like new/shiny,no corrosion and tight.
The video shows how to run an extra ground unlike the factory probably would say *I DO NOT RECALL*. Try this(as seen in the video),see what happens,it's only going to get better! if the battery is discharged/dead,charge it with a battery charger,start it,drive it for an hour or so,take it to have the charging system tested(most parts stores will check for free). post results....
Yes this worked thank goodness!!! Now I just have to change on my alternator and hope that I don't have to change the battery yet again because it was possibly drained! I'm still having to jump the car. So I will just have to wait and see after changing the alternator.
ok,take the alternator off and take it to a parts store and let them test it inside their store in their testing machine before you buy a new one. take the battery with you and let them charge it even if it is discharged/dead and not damaged,then they can charge it in around 1 hour or less... post findings,and good luck to you.
I already know my alternator needs changed out due to it making a loud whining noise in the panel lights and headlights and everything are flickering! I'll take it out and take it in due to I already have a warranty because it wad put on last May. I'm just hoping that the battery can just be charged because I've already swapped it that out with warranty because it was registering 12 volts but it was registering that it wad bad and I got that back in November.
ok,if your alternator is bad,then it will not maintain the charge on your battery and the battery will drain down until the vehicle will cut off! so,you shouldn't have any trouble getting them both replaced if needed,depending on where you bought them.If it was Autozone and you have a Lifetime Warranty on the alternator,and probably a 3 year free replacement on the battery,they usually don't ask any questions and just replace with another to keep you happy and coming back to them in the future! post results.
Hopefully charging the battery will be sufficient because I've already used the warranty. The original battery I bought back in November and I just swapped it out for a new one last week.
ok,but IF you got the battery at AZ and it goes bad and they give you another one to replace the bad one under warranty,then the warranty starts over on the new one from the day/date they give you the new one,I know this for a FACT. good luck with it.
Ended up having to get yet another battery (with warranty) cause it was drained by alternator before we took old one off. Replaced the alternator and battery and then having the ground wire is now and all good other than it is now throwing a P0700 code. I have a reader. And i am not able to go over 35 miles per hour and it runs at 3000 RPMs will not shift into second gear.
The P0700 refers to a Transmission Control System Malfunction. It's a generic code in that it's a warning to have your transmission computer scanned to get the precise codes in order to diagnose the problem further. Apparently, transmission issues are common in all Chrysler products in the mid 2000's . Have the car scanned for a more specific code(s)....AAMCO will scan your transmission codes free of charge and you don't have to have it fixed there.
If unfamiliar / not comfortable with attempting suggestions - recommend seeking qualified *hands-on* help.
How do you check to make sure that the body is sufficiently grounded?